tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33376617754018849092024-03-13T14:47:35.478-04:00North of 9 Fine WineIf you have found us by chance - Welcome!
North of 9 is a fine wine tasting group who gather once per month to sample and discuss wine from around the world.
We endeavour to promote and educate those who enjoy a really good glass of wine through our non-biased tastings. Your wine tour begins here - Enjoy!Tyler Philphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09435914240300765715noreply@blogger.comBlogger45125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3337661775401884909.post-4717093080114524472013-05-21T13:31:00.000-04:002013-05-21T15:31:19.777-04:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Tyler Philphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09435914240300765715noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3337661775401884909.post-4173286270162391842013-02-12T22:07:00.000-05:002013-02-12T22:07:17.875-05:00Cellaring wine - an acceptable margin of error<br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Rarely do I plan these articles
and stories; the motivation tends to materialize without warning - and this latest
tale of exploration is no exception. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">During an impromptu visit with friends
in the city, I found myself standing in their wine cellar for a tour and
discussion of bottle storage. I never
decline the opportunity to visit a cellar; big or small, modern or old, be it
adorned with custom cabinetry or plastic milk cartons, I am enthralled by the storage
techniques that people employ for their personal collection of treasured bottles.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The home and subject of this discussion is stunningly tasteful, decorated in a mix of modern, classical, and Victorian
styles. Care and well-thought planning
have obviously gone into every square foot of this 130-year-old home nestled in
the heart of the <st1:city w:st="on">Toronto</st1:city>’s
historic Annex district. As the ladies venture in
the one direction for a walk-about of the couples' latest and extensive renovations upstairs,
the gentlemen make their way below ground level for a conversation on wine
preservation. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tiled floors accent a clean line
of white cabinetry at the base of the stairs as we make our way toward a half-lit
thermal door installed between the basement living area and the wine cellar
itself. Opening the door reveals a cold storage room now tastefully converted
with wooden bottle racking that stands approximately five feet high spanning the
width of the area. We casually chat about the old foundation, its exposure to the
sun, and the grade level outside the sunken window.
To my surprise, the owner recalls a natural earth floor beneath what is
now a clean concrete slab. ‘Dirt in a
wine cellar is a magical thing’ and in hindsight, my host is well aware that given
the option, to pour concrete – or any other sealed product over the natural
surface, is likely a planning oversight. A natural floor maintains a balance within the
cellar by slowly adding to and removing humidity from the air while preserving
the cool cavernous climate. You might wish to
weigh the pros and cons carefully before covering up such a modest luxury. Most wine
enthusiasts can only dream of dirt-under-foot and must opt instead for a climate controlled room to house their best bottles. If you fall into this group, there are several custom cellar contractors that are certainly worth looking up.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The collection today is a tasteful mix of the old world and new. A
hundred bottles of French, Spanish, and Italian labels plus a selection of
North American wines catch my eye as I glance across the symmetrical racks. Several
examples are now ready to drink; others do not require aging, while a select
few will certainly benefit from additional time on their sides. In
essence, this well-planned cellar will serve a wide range of entertainment
needs for many years.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As we chat, I can't help but notice and inquire about a large dehumidifier,
coiled hose, and extension cord pushed off the side of the small room.
The explanation I receive for the presence of this equipment is the
reason for this post.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">"A wine expert friend," my host recalls, "says that a cellar
must remain at 60% relative humidity and the temperature held at a
constant 14˚C."</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There are two ways to address a statement like this. The first is to say
nothing in response; this collection of wine is in good hands and will
certainly mature without concern or fault. The other train of thought is
to off-load this dedicated enthusiast who is obviously on the right track but
has unknowingly placed undue concern upon a concept that was mastered long before
the invention of vapour barriers, weather-stripping, and supplemental climate
control.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Let us first touch on humidity: in terms of a bottle's evolution, there is no
‘maximum’ level of humidly. You cannot harm a bottle of wine by storing
it in an excessively humid location. Levels above 80% will eventually
cause discolouration of the labels but no harm will ever come to the contents
of the bottle, provided the cork does its job. The possibility of mould development
in your home as a result is another subject that I won’t touch in this
discussion. At the opposite end of the humidity spectrum, bottle storage in a very dry location for anything
greater than six months will eventually result in the
failure of the cork's seal. Stelven closures (screw caps) are immune to
the effects of humidity. Bottles sealed under natural cork however, should remain ideally within the range of 55 - 75%.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The use of a dehumidifier in your cellar is nothing short of inconvenient. Not only does the unit require daily attention if direct drainage is not
possible, but the machine itself generates constant heat while running.
Should your cellar environment also necessitate some form of supplemental
cooling, that system must now work even harder to maintain an ideal
temperature.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On the subject of temperature, the ideal range for a wine cellar is 11-13˚C /
52-55˚F. Any warmer and the wine will simply evolve faster – arguably
with less style and grace. The colder end of the spectrum slows the essential
physical transformation, eventually stunting the bottle’s development
completely as you encroach on the freezing mark. The need to respect
temperature is frequently misunderstood and I will reiterate that seasonable
changes that occur gradually over several weeks are of no concern whatsoever. Rapid changes, on the other hand, are your
bottles’ worse enemy. An example might be
a sudden spike, to say 20˚ degrees on a hot day, plummeting again to 10 or 12˚
overnight. The contents of the bottles
will expand and contract in response to the environmental changes, but the
silent victim in each case is the cork, as it struggles to maintain the airtight
seal against its glass-walled neighbour. Eventually the elasticity of the
stopper will succumb to the constant state of flux and the wine may seep from
the bottle. Of greater concern is that oxygen may in turn replace the
evaporated contents.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In an ongoing effort to relieve some of the stress associated with buying,
storing, and consuming fine wine, I would like to summarize the idea of storage
by stating that if you plan to drink your wine in the next 30 days, store it
wherever you like (within reason). If you buy by the case but intend to
consume within six months to a year, don't sweat the small stuff. Keep these
bottles in a cool, dark location and enjoy them at your leisure. Better
bottles purchased for long-term storage do need an extra element of care:
lay these bottles on their side, in a place where they can evolve without
interruption. Follow the temperature and humidity guidelines above while
recognizing the need for a dark, odourless, and vibration-free environment as
well. This will greatly increase the potential
for enjoyment as you open these old treasures many years later.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Should you still feel that cellaring wine necessitates the need for laboratory-like
conditions, I invite you to entertain the thought of how wine was stored only
50 years ago. If you are still unconvinced, I’ll invite you to my place
for dinner and pour you a 15-year-old bottle that has witnessed more storage
sins than I care to admit. My gradually fluctuating cobweb-crusted stone
cavern has yet to disappoint.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">For more information on wine cellaring see also: </span><i style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://northof9finewine.blogspot.ca/2011/04/investment-in-taste.html">An Investment in Taste</a></i></div>
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Tyler Philphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09435914240300765715noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3337661775401884909.post-87674206068913840102013-01-10T14:44:00.000-05:002013-01-11T13:41:49.715-05:00The Riesling Doctor<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>- As written by T.Philp and published in the summer 2012 edition of the King Tapestry</i></span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AAhCAU9aZCg/UO4H8g_WPEI/AAAAAAAACjI/9N1F2TMX5Po/s1600/A_Doktor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="155" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AAhCAU9aZCg/UO4H8g_WPEI/AAAAAAAACjI/9N1F2TMX5Po/s400/A_Doktor.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On
the ziggurat of white wine greatness there are many plateaus. The top
spot however is reserved for a matter of personal preference – and for many,
that element of vinous superiority is none other than Chardonnay. I rest with
one foot firmly planted in this camp, while the other travels the world making
regularly stops on the banks of the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Mosel</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">River</st1:placetype></st1:place>. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Riesling
is the ‘other’ white grape; it has been for centuries and likely always will
be. Cut from a different cloth than the white knight of <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state></st1:place>, Riesling is of
greater purity – arguably. Foregoing the
influence of oak, it projects an individuality and clarity unique to the
variety. The word used to describe a wine’s uniqueness of place is <i>terroir</i>, though when discussing Riesling
I also like to include the term transparency. Riesling leaves
little to the imagination and nature dictates the character of the resultant
wine. Better winemakers will do little
to tamper with this process. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Riesling
is successfully grown throughout the world, but unlike many of the warmer
climate varieties, these vines excel in cooler growing regions. The banks of the Mosel in <st1:country-region w:st="on">Germany</st1:country-region>
and <st1:country-region w:st="on">France</st1:country-region>’s great <st1:state w:st="on">Alsace</st1:state> lead the world in quality Riesling (though
differing styles) while honourable mentions go to several other regions including
<st1:country-region w:st="on">Australia</st1:country-region> and our very own <st1:place w:st="on">Niagara</st1:place> peninsula.
The focus today however, is on a plot of land that experts of the vine
unanimously consider the source of the purest and most expressive Riesling in
the world. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Before
I introduce the wine, let’s discuss a few theoretical points; for greatness usually
comes at the expense of simplicity: <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">German
QmP (Qualitätswein mit Prädikat) standards dictate the classification of the
wine based on the natural sugar content (brix level) of the grapes at harvest. Logically,
the longer the grapes are allowed to ripen, the higher the brix level. At this level, chaptalization (the addition
of sugar) is not allowed and the resultant wines can range from bone dry to the
ultra-sweet nectar of the Gods known as Beerenauslese.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Listed
below by increasing levels of brix are the various grades of German QmP wine:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Kabinett ¦ Spatlese ¦ Auslese ¦ Beerenauslese ¦ Trockenbeerenauslese <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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It is important to note that higher brix does not necessarily dictate a sweeter
wine. The first three levels of the QmP,
if allowed, will ferment until fully dry. Ascending through the levels, German
Riesling becomes richer in both flavour and intensity. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Legend of the Doctor vineyard<o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Just
as <st1:city w:st="on">Bordeaux</st1:city> has its First Growths and <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state></st1:place> its Grand Cru
plots, Riesling has its legendary vines as well. ‘The story goes’ that in the 13<sup>th</sup> century,
the Archbishop of Trier was passing through the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Mosel</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Valley</st1:placetype></st1:place> when
he became deathly ill. After countless failed attempts to cure his ailing
health, he was offered a glass of Riesling as a form of comfort during his
final days. Miraculously, after drinking the wine, his health was quickly
regained. From that point on, the vines on the steep slopes above the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placetype w:st="on">village</st1:placetype> of <st1:placename w:st="on">Berncastel</st1:placename></st1:place> that produced his miracle
cure were renamed ‘The Doctor’… Sounds like a bad case of the flu to me
but it does make a good story nonetheless.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-58X8ygXlVTA/UO8bnudtnpI/AAAAAAAAClE/Uq1AtIcTOPw/s1600/sickness+and+wine.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="302" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-58X8ygXlVTA/UO8bnudtnpI/AAAAAAAAClE/Uq1AtIcTOPw/s320/sickness+and+wine.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The
entire Doctor vineyard measures only 8.1 acres in total and is comprised of century
old vines that existed before the devastating phylloxeria louse decimated nearly
every grape vine in <st1:place w:st="on">Europe</st1:place> at the end of the
19<sup>th</sup> century. The vines have
a root structure that extends over 10 metres below the surface of the vineyard which
is said to be most expensive agricultural land in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Germany</st1:country-region></st1:place>. The question
remains: are the vines of Berncastel’s Doctor actually responsible for the
greatest expression of Riesling in the world? <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">‘The Doktor’ has stained my mind on a few occasions now, at various levels of the QmP, and most recently via a bottle of '09 Kabinett. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2009 Dr. H. Thanisch - Erben
Müller-Burggraef, Berncasteler Doctor, Riesling Kabinett <o:p></o:p></span></i></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_11c9bYnx6M/UO8WuXmNusI/AAAAAAAACkg/Sw-R2TdgfaY/s1600/2009_Thanisch_Doctor_.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_11c9bYnx6M/UO8WuXmNusI/AAAAAAAACkg/Sw-R2TdgfaY/s320/2009_Thanisch_Doctor_.JPG" width="180" /></a><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If
you thought the name was a mouthful, you really ought to try the wine. The deep yellow colour might cause one to mistake
this for a much older bottle. Aromas of peach leap from the glass to
reveal notes of spiced honey, apricot, and hints of almond extract – Initial
impressions have me questioning the Kabinett (first harvest) status – and
tasted blind I would likely label this a Spatlese wine; evidently all Kabinett
is not created equal. Incidentally, the origin of the term kabinett dates
back to when German winemakers held on to a few of their best bottle for
personal consumption. These prized bottles were stored in the winemakers
own ‘cabinet’. On the palate, this wine redefines the definition of
balance. Nothing is out of place: sweetness, acidity, and body all
resonate in luxurious harmony with no one note projecting its tone above the
others. Sensations of ripe red apple, juicy <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Bartlett</st1:city></st1:place> pear, and hints caramel on the
finish define the flavour profile beautifully. This is a truly fantastic
wine and when compared to a label of comparable quality from the Chardonnay
camp, the ’09 Thanisch, Berncasteler Doctor is an unimaginable bargain at $42.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A
wine like this will change the way you view the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placetype w:st="on">sea</st1:placetype> of <st1:placename w:st="on">Riesling</st1:placename></st1:place> on
the store shelves. If you do manage to locate a bottle or two, I strongly
recommend that you do not hesitate. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Tyler Philphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09435914240300765715noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3337661775401884909.post-17602429351923521872013-01-02T22:51:00.002-05:002013-01-10T16:14:06.377-05:00Dinner at the Ritz - a tale of questionable taste <br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>- As written by T.Philp and published in the autumn 2012 edition of Footprints magazine</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Across an otherwise empty room, I curiously watch as a dinner
party of eight well-dressed guests orchestrate a flurry of circulating wait
staff. Dinner at the famous Hôtel Ritz
was a priority for Jacquie and I while in <st1:city w:st="on">Paris</st1:city>
several years ago, and so dressed to the nines along with my lovely wife, we take our places at a romantic table for two in the grand dining room. </span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JKFNZLM1Nqc/UOSbNzxe3mI/AAAAAAAAChU/HrIRXR6D4z4/s1600/hall+at+the+ritz.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JKFNZLM1Nqc/UOSbNzxe3mI/AAAAAAAAChU/HrIRXR6D4z4/s320/hall+at+the+ritz.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our intent was to stay the night, in one of the hotel’s famous
rooms that lie just beyond the Hall of Temptation. This seemingly endless corridor is home to numerous
objects of desire including rare jewels, designer garments, and assorted
artifacts. Each item is locked just out
of reach, within the flanking rows of glass display cases. Those with bottomless pockets or a gross lack
of self-control are more than welcome to purchase these treasures. For Jac and me, the sight was enough to fuel
our sense of imagination for many years to come. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My profession had me displaced in <st1:country-region w:st="on">France</st1:country-region>,
teaching British clients who would make the short commute from the <st1:place w:st="on">Channel Islands</st1:place> each day. I had my own flat in the city and a car at my
disposal. The arrangement also stipulated
that the company would fly Jacquie from <st1:city w:st="on">Toronto</st1:city> to
<st1:city w:st="on">Paris</st1:city> once per
month for a short visit. This particular
occasion was her first time in the historic city but unfortunately work had
thrown a wrench in to my plans to spend our anniversary at the Ritz. Instead, we settled for afternoon tea in the
garden and a dinner not soon forgotten. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The events of this evening occurred at a point when my knowledge
of wine was only beginning to blossom. I
knew enough to recognize the intricate actions and proceedings of the sommelier,
but in truth, I failed to understand the significance of the wine. I have also replayed this evening in my mind
a thousand times, to the point where the truth is greatly obscured. The reason for the constant need to recall
this event is purely out of fascination and perhaps an element of hindsight. Let me explain… </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">From our table we could easily enjoy the uninterrupted ambience
of this legendary establishment and yet remain close enough to keep tabs on the
high-price patrons across the room. After
a round of cocktails, our first course arrived.
Judging by the presentation and taste, nothing at the Ritz is second
best. Even the linen serviettes were
embroidered and pressed to perfection - I nabbed one as a souvenir. </span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X6tq4Fw-CDg/UOSbbFxfTiI/AAAAAAAAChc/UV_PQ0LVmqg/s1600/decant_cradle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X6tq4Fw-CDg/UOSbbFxfTiI/AAAAAAAAChc/UV_PQ0LVmqg/s200/decant_cradle.jpg" width="190" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The sommelier resurfaced with what appeared to be a very old
and dust covered bottle from the cellar.
He presented the label to the host of the party across the room and then
carefully placed the bottle in its basket back on to his guerdon. We watched in awe as the contents trickled from
the bottle into a flask by way of an old hand-crank decanting cradle, a procedure
that to this day I have only witnessed on this occasion. The sommelier sampled the wine and then continued
to pour a taste for the host’s approval.
This was obviously a very special bottle and certainly a rare occasion
for his fortunate group. I sat in envy. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">To the shock of the entire table and a slightly defensive
stance from the highly trained wine steward, the gentleman hosting the dinner party turned the bottle away. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Declining a bottle of wine is a perfectly acceptable practice. Unfortunately though, most people do it for
the wrong reasons. If the bottle is not what you asked for or it is flawed, i.e. it tastes like vinegar or smells of sulphur or wet cardboard, you should
return it. In fact, most knowledgeable
staff at better restaurants won’t even present the sample taste if they suspect
that the bottle’s contents are in question.
Understand as well, that if the wine does not suit your ‘personal taste’,
it is very poor etiquette to send it back.
Over time, the pronounced fruit character of wine begins to fade, giving
way to more earth driven sensations such as leather, cedar, and spice box to
name a few. In terms of colour, white
wine takes on a deeper hue while all reds become less vibrantly so. Needless to say, when the host of the party
in question turned this particular bottle away, the conversation at the
waiters’ station and within earshot of our table became unquestionably direct. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My limited knowledge of the French language at the time posed
no barrier to the situation; the tone of their voices told the entire story. The
wine was Chateau Petrus; the vintage, I will never know, but when our
waiter stopped by to replenish our water glasses, I inquired about the obvious concern
across the room. Was the wine flawed? I
asked. His response while cautious was also quite
honest: ‘No monsieur, the wine is perfect;
the bottle is just very old.’ ‘An
expensive loss, I’m sure.’ I commented. ‘Yes,’
he replied, ‘it sells for over 5000 euros (francs at the time) and is the last example
of that label in our cellar.’ </span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O3leu8IUCiU/UOSdKoEIgzI/AAAAAAAACig/RFeAbuEy0mg/s1600/petrus+1945.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O3leu8IUCiU/UOSdKoEIgzI/AAAAAAAACig/RFeAbuEy0mg/s320/petrus+1945.jpg" width="105" /></a><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The staff quickly cleared the still full decanter and empty bottle
from the table and curiously left it with a gentleman sitting just out of our view
– the owner perhaps? Mr. Al-Fayed… he was with another person, with whom he
shared the deeply scarred wine. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The loss of revenue in a situation like this does not bother
me; hotels of this calibre make money hand-over-fist. Rather, I am dismayed by the obvious arrogance
and wasted opportunity for this group to taste what others might only dream of
enjoying. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We finished our meals and wandered through the hotel before
strolling under the streetlights along rue Saint-Honoré, stopping of course to see the famous
chocolate waterfall. Many years have
past since this memorable evening and yet on occasion, I am still able to recall the sequence of events. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The facts have become rather twisted over time and as I relive the story l</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">ate at night, my mind slipping further into the subconscious, </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">the tale evolves with an alternate
ending. You see, I have tasted this wine
on countless occasions. Our waiter that
evening was perceptive enough to sense our keen interest and enthusiasm and kindly
offered us each a single glass of the great Château Petrus…1945. On each occasion, the vintage elixir has exceeded
all of my expectations and to this day remains the greatest wine ever to stain
my imagination. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>Reasons to reject a bottle of wine</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">- Not the requested label or vintage</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">- Signs of seepage upon presentation</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">- Pronounced aroma of barnyard or wet cardboard</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">- Other aromatic faults including onion, rubber, matchstick,
rotten eggs</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">- Excessive oxidation indicated by the smell of cooked fruit
or discolouration in a young wine</span></div>
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Tyler Philphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09435914240300765715noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3337661775401884909.post-83850342501020782932012-12-26T09:43:00.000-05:002013-01-22T19:10:00.249-05:00Champagne - a tour of styles<div class="PreList" style="text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">While most people still reserve a glass of <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Champagne</st1:place></st1:state> or sparkling wine for New Year’s Eve and the occasional toast while out for dinner, you really don’t need a formal reason to pour yourself a glass of bubbly. In fact, <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Champagne</st1:place></st1:state> is one of the most food friendly and versatile wines available. I encourage you to sip bubbles just for the shear pleasure of the experience. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sparkling wine is made throughout the world, but the name <st1:state w:st="on">Champagne</st1:state> is reserved only for the wines from <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">France</st1:place></st1:country-region>’s chilly northern wine making region of the same name. The following guide will clarify a few Champagne related terms that you might come across as you wander through the bubbly section of your local wineshop.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US">In accordance with the French Appellation d’Origine Contr</span><span lang="EN-US">ôlée – AOC</span><span lang="EN-US"> (a concept similar to <st1:country-region w:st="on">Canada</st1:country-region>’s VQA system), only certain grape varieties are permitted in the production of <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Champagne. </st1:place></st1:state>Each grape imparts a different character trait to the wine and the three that you are most likely to come across are list below:</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US">Chardonnay (white) – Finesse and Elegance<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US">Pinot Meunier (red) – Body and Richness<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US">Pinot Noir (red) – Fruitiness</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The term <i>Blanc-de-Blanc</i> will appear on the label to indicate that only Chardonnay was used in the making of the wine. And while less common, <i>Blanc-de-Noirs</i> signifies when the wine is made using only Pinot Noir and/or Pinot Meunier, both dark-skinned grapes. </span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There are several terms used to describe <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Champagne</st1:place></st1:state> but these are the most common styles:</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US">Brut (natural) is dry wine<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US">Sec (dry) is actually off-dry wine<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US">·<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US">Demi-Sec (half dry) is slightly sweet wine</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The term Brut implies a dry crisp wine, whereas Sec and Demi-Sec show increasingly more sweetness and body. The vast majority of <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Champagne</st1:place></st1:state> and sparkling wines produced and those which are available at the LCBO are dry (Brut). Incidentally, all <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Champagne</st1:place></st1:state> is fermented dry; it is the addition of the <i>dosage</i> (a mixture of cane or beet sugar and wine) that balances the wine’s natural acidity and dictates the final degree of sweetness. </span></span></div>
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<i><span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Vintage vs. Non-Vintage <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Champagne</st1:place></st1:state>:<o:p></o:p></span></span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US">Using a process known as <i>assemblage,</i> <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Champagne</st1:place></st1:state> is normally a blend (<i>cuvee) </i>of vintages and therefore in theory the wine should always taste the same. Let us not forget that the climate in the north of <st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">France</st1:place></st1:country-region> is not exactly conducive to the growth of grapes and therefore bad vintages are more frequent than not. </span><span lang="EN-US">For this reason, the</span><span lang="EN-US"> blending of vintages is essential to create a consistent product from one year to the next. </span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Vintage <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Champagne</st1:place></st1:state> on the other hand is actually the oddball and as the name states, these wines contain only the <i>must</i> from the specified year on the label and are produced only in top vintages. If you have grown accustom to a particular taste from your favourite <st1:place w:st="on">Champagne</st1:place> house, their vintage bottling may seem a bit ‘different’ at first. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US">Delaying the run-off of the crushed grape juice (<i>must</i>) and separation from the Pinot Meunier and/or Pinot Noir skins will result in a slight red stained wine – we know this as Ros</span><span lang="EN-US">é</span><span lang="EN-US"> Champagne. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US">In terms of cellaring potential, Champagne is ready to drink when you buy it. Though like many other high quality wines, a year or two spent in the bottle will allow the wine’s potential hard edges to soften. High-quality Champagne will evolve from lively, citrusy, and fresh toward a creamy richness after 5-10 years in the cellar becoming fully mature as it approaches 15-20 years of age. Any longer, and the bubbles begin to dissipate. Additionally, and since the CO</span><sub><span lang="EN-US">2</span></sub><span lang="EN-US"> within the bottle maintains an adequate degree of moisture, Champagne and sparkling wines need not lie on their sides. You can store your bubbly bottles upright while you wait for the wine to age.</span></span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pdaXJQj19I4/Tv5416JzjdI/AAAAAAAAA2k/hsrnXIlOQGU/s1600/Champagnepop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pdaXJQj19I4/Tv5416JzjdI/AAAAAAAAA2k/hsrnXIlOQGU/s200/Champagnepop.jpg" width="198" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">When serving Champagne and contrary to common practice, the cork should be removed carefully and without a great froth of bubbles. Simply put: a great deal of effort went in to putting the bubbles into the wine, let’s not waste then on the ‘pop’. Unless of course, you have just won the Grand Prix – then ‘shake and spray’ everyone around you!</span></span></div>
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<i><span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">“Champagne is from Champagne. Bubbles from elsewhere, however good, cannot be called Champagne.”</span></span></i></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>-Hugh Johnson </i></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"><i><br />
</i></span></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=4HY8D-LOmcA">How to open a bottle of bubbly with style - <i>Champagne Sabering video</i></a></span><br />
<br />Tyler Philphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09435914240300765715noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3337661775401884909.post-87841732914943530452012-12-04T22:10:00.001-05:002012-12-05T20:10:42.876-05:00These are a few of my favourite things<br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Each December, I like to assemble a selection of wines tasted over the last year. For
one reason or another, these labels have left me speechless with a glass in one hand and a
corkscrew in the other. It may have been a moment of discovery, an unimaginable
bargain, or a bottle that quite simply knocked my socks off! I don't
place a price on pleasure and thus the labels listed below range significantly
across the spectrum.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Incidentally, any one of these bottles will add a touch of class to your holiday festivities this month.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I would like to wish you a very happy and safe holiday. Drink lots of
wine and share your best bottles with those who are closest to you.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">To quote Andre Simon, <i>“Wine makes every meal an occasion, every table more
elegant, every day more civilized.”</i></span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uEcH6Tdvf9Q/UL6wZoyq8II/AAAAAAAACZE/0lzIDjUQobs/s1600/lillet.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uEcH6Tdvf9Q/UL6wZoyq8II/AAAAAAAACZE/0lzIDjUQobs/s200/lillet.JPG" width="129" /></a></div>
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LILLET BLANC<br />
VINTAGES 322297 | 750 mL bottle</span></div>
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<st1:place w:st="on"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><st1:city w:st="on">Bordeaux</st1:city>,
<st1:country-region w:st="on">France</st1:country-region></span></st1:place></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">$15.25</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A blend of Sauvignon and Semillon from the vines of <st1:city w:st="on">Bordeaux</st1:city> mixed with a
shot of brandy and delicately packed with personality. Tastes of peach,
apricot, and a touch of orange rind bitterness; creamy on the mid-palate;
refreshing, and everlasting. Advertised, as an aperitif but this will
also work with light desserts. You’ll crave another sip. Serve well
chilled.</span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lc_XA0C8oaA/UL6xDTjuudI/AAAAAAAACZU/-EVObbZyQU4/s1600/Chateau+de+Galifay+Tyler+Philp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lc_XA0C8oaA/UL6xDTjuudI/AAAAAAAACZU/-EVObbZyQU4/s200/Chateau+de+Galifay+Tyler+Philp.jpg" width="141" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2010 CHÂTEAU DE GALIFAY CAIRANNE CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES<br />
VINTAGES 290080 | 750 mL bottle </span></div>
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<st1:place w:st="on"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><st1:city w:st="on">Rhône</st1:city>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">France</st1:country-region></span></st1:place></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">$17.00</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Located just over an hour from the <st1:place w:st="on">Mediterranean Sea</st1:place>,
Cairanne is the western-most village in the Côtes du Rhône Villages
appellation. This outstanding Grenache based blend shows aromas of strawberry
and sweet spices. Medium bodied and uplifting with hints minerality
followed by a core of plum sweetness that lasts through to the finish.
Sip it solo or with tapas on the side.</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3MhDtktGpsI/UL6xLKwkz6I/AAAAAAAACZc/QUjFC1mLKLw/s1600/Greece+Chardonnay.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3MhDtktGpsI/UL6xLKwkz6I/AAAAAAAACZc/QUjFC1mLKLw/s200/Greece+Chardonnay.jpg" width="131" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">ESTATE HATZIMICHALIS CHARDONNAY<br />
LCBO 269654 | 750 mL bottle </span></div>
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<st1:country-region w:st="on"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Greece</span></st1:country-region></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">$14.95</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Not that I have any sort of issue with Greek wine, but this one really caught me by
surprise. Captivating from the first whiff to the very last sip. Floral
delicacy with subtle tropical aromas but in no way aggressive. Just a
hint of effervescence and oak lead to an uplifting and highly refreshing taste –
you’ll enjoy this! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2006 MONTECILLO RESERVA<br />
LCBO 621003 | 750 mL bottle </span></div>
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<st1:place w:st="on"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><st1:city w:st="on">Rioja</st1:city>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">Spain</st1:country-region></span></st1:place></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZtPJUZT1HeY/UL6xTi95EFI/AAAAAAAACZk/vNi8YgyYzJ4/s1600/Montelcillo+reserva+Tyler+Philp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZtPJUZT1HeY/UL6xTi95EFI/AAAAAAAACZk/vNi8YgyYzJ4/s200/Montelcillo+reserva+Tyler+Philp.jpg" width="140" /></a><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">$18.55</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">To be classified as Rioja Reserva, the wine must age for 3 years, of which one
must be spent in oak prior to release for sale. The wood softens the wine
while at the same time adding a degree of complexity to the equation and this
example is textbook. Balance is key (the wood can overpower) and
Montecillo has achieved perfect harmony in their 2006. Red fruit abounds:
raspberry and cherry; a touch of smoke; the oak is present but in no way
intrusive; perhaps just a hint of caramel - lovely. I’ve paid much more
for wine of this quality; the tannins are like velvet with a juicy sweet core
and a lingering finish – is one bottle enough? </span></div>
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<span span="span" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gmOdSWaDGag/UL6xd89V_BI/AAAAAAAACZs/MEurtJ632pk/s1600/Elderton_Command_2005+Tyler+Philp.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gmOdSWaDGag/UL6xd89V_BI/AAAAAAAACZs/MEurtJ632pk/s320/Elderton_Command_2005+Tyler+Philp.png" width="137" /></a><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">ELDERTON COMMAND SINGLE VINEYARD SHIRAZ 2005<br />
VINTAGES 716142 | 750 mL bottle</span></span></div>
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<span span="span" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><st1:place w:st="on"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><st1:city w:st="on">Barossa</st1:city>,
<st1:country-region w:st="on">Australia</st1:country-region></span></st1:place></span></div>
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<span span="span" style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">$89.95</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This wine ranks at #6 on my top 10 list of all-time favourite bottles.
I've included it here for a couple of reasons: one, we opened it
just the other day and I can still taste it! And secondly, because on
occasion you can still stumble upon a bottle of the '05 vintage on the store
shelves. This wine (in my very critical opinion) is the perfect bottle of
<st1:city w:st="on">Shiraz</st1:city> molded
in the finest new-world style.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sourced from 1894 <st1:city w:st="on">Shiraz</st1:city>
plantings of a single estate owned 8 acre block. It spends 3 years in 100% new
oak: 65% American, 35% French. Super-concentrated, rich and almost
viscous, it coats your senses with
chocolate, ripe currants, and cassis. But it was the mix of raspberry tart and
black pepper on the finish that won me over - a fantastic wine! Decant
1-2 hours before serving. </span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lHHlLzXMhZE/UL60S7ZOE3I/AAAAAAAACaU/F4G6VjJ5bSo/s1600/veuve-clicquot-demi-sec+Tyler+Philp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lHHlLzXMhZE/UL60S7ZOE3I/AAAAAAAACaU/F4G6VjJ5bSo/s1600/veuve-clicquot-demi-sec+Tyler+Philp.jpg" /></a><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">VEUVE CLICQUOT DEMI SEC CHAMPAGNE<br />
LCBO 38307 | 750 mL bottle</span></div>
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<st1:state style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" w:st="on">Champagne</st1:state><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, </span><st1:country-region style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" w:st="on">France</st1:country-region></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">$71.20</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This is not the popular Clicquot but I think it is the better
one. Demi-Sec means half-dry or semi-sweet. Expect citrus notes, toasted
almonds, and a smooth mouth feel. Nicely balanced; this is exceptional <st1:state w:st="on">Champagne</st1:state> and it goes
well as a dessert compliment or even all on its own.</span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nvwLy3B-r0M/UL602csIMLI/AAAAAAAACac/xNDApL0oIy0/s1600/Sortilege.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="173" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nvwLy3B-r0M/UL602csIMLI/AAAAAAAACac/xNDApL0oIy0/s200/Sortilege.jpg" width="200" /></a><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">SORTILÈGE<br />
LCBO 250134 | 750 mL bottle</span></div>
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<st1:place w:st="on"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><st1:city w:st="on">Quebec</st1:city>, <st1:country-region w:st="on">Canada</st1:country-region></span></st1:place></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">$29.95</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">French-Canadian Maple Whisky! A flurry of adjectives cannot do this beverage justice – you
must try it. I know people who dribble </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sortilège</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> over ice cream, mix it into
cocktails, and even lace their coffee with a dash. The traditional
way however, is to serve Sortilège at room temperature over the rocks in a
lowball glass. The chill of the ice dances across your palate as it
flirts with the warmth of the alcohol and the intoxicating sweetness of the
maple syrup – Fantastique! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">GRAHAM'S 20 YEAR OLD TAWNY PORT<br />
LCBO 620641 | 500 mL bottle</span></div>
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<st1:country-region w:st="on"><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Portugal</span></st1:country-region></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">$36.95</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This is really nice tawny and the 500ml bottle is perfect
for sitting by the fire with your sweetie! There is an initial orange rind bite
that some people like in their port (I don't) but it smooths out beautifully in the glass
after a few minutes. And if there is any left the next day, it tastes like the
Graham's 30 which is absolute perfection in a bottle if you ever have a chance
to buy one. Try this tawny at room
temperature with milk chocolate.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A final thought before I leave you to make a mad dash for the wine shop...<br />
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“Few people have intellectual resources sufficient to forgo the pleasures of
wine. They could not otherwise contrive how to fill the interval between dinner
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Boswell's Life of Johnson</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Have a Wonderful Holiday</td></tr>
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</span>Tyler Philphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09435914240300765715noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3337661775401884909.post-31656686305783749472012-11-18T21:39:00.000-05:002012-11-20T13:13:39.637-05:00a ghost in the bottle<div class="IntroTitle" style="text-align: justify;">
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<span lang="EN-US"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The longer you spend exploring the subject of fine wine, the more familiar you become with the concept that there are no great wines but only great bottles, and that with every great bottle comes an even greater story - I have one to share…<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US">For my wife Jacquie’s 40<sup>th</sup> birthday celebration, I bought two bottles of the 1970 Marqu</span><span lang="EN-US">é</span><span lang="EN-US">s de Murrieta, Castillo Ygay, Gran Reserva.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Spanish claim that 1970 was their vintage of the century and those who are fond of this region also recognize that Castillo Ygay is the flagship of Rioja. I have read about this wine for years and over time collected it in more recent vintages, but to stumble upon the great 1970 vintage and coincidently that of Jacquie’s birth year was an opportunity impossible to pass-up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Considering the vintage and the occasion, I’ll refer to this bottle as ‘well aged’.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Traditionally, the Spanish age their best wine in oak vats for the better part of a decade and in some cases, much longer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The time spent in contact with the wood adds tremendous flavour and complexity to the wine while over time softening its hard edges. The 1970 Castillo Ygay had spent an astonishing 26 years in oak casks prior to bottling.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US">We chose to celebrate at Bistro Seven Seven, in Alliston – just the two of us, as a surprise group of close friends gathered upstairs.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I’ll admit that I was just as excited about tasting the Castillo Ygay as I was to see Jacquie’s reaction upon discovering her friends in the room above.</span></span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US">With the arrival of our entr</span><span lang="EN-US">é</span><span lang="EN-US">es, our server opened the bottle.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The cork slid out almost effortlessly and we agreed that decanting a ‘well aged’ wine might be detrimental to its potential pleasure and therefore we poured straight from the bottle. If fine wine is truly half drink and half atmosphere, could this moment have been any closer to perfection?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Ygay spilled smoothly into our glasses, first Jacquie’s then mine and within seconds, the wine’s aroma exploded, filling the room with dark fruit and earthy notes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>By now, the group quietly gathering above us was the furthest thought from my mind.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Instead, this was all about sharing an incredible bottle with my beautiful wife.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Seated across the room, an elderly couple curiously stared, I think with equal anticipation; perhaps I should offer them a taste as well – maybe later...<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">With time, a fine wine can also become quite fragile, so imagine the shock when suddenly oxygen is reintroduced to the equation after 40 years.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Sealed within a time capsule for almost four decades, the 1970 Castillo Ygay was not only intriguing, but also somewhat of a risk to open on such a special occasion.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is not unusual for ‘well aged’ wines to fall flat very quickly once the cork is drawn, but we were fortunate this evening:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the colour of the Ygay was surprisingly deep and had I not known otherwise, I might have guessed it from the mid ‘90s.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The wine's aroma was absolutely breathtaking, but to taste such a rarity, even more so.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On the palate, the sensation was of velvet; full bodied but not jammy - just the right amount of fruit followed by a lingering touch of spice. As far as I was concerned, the Castillo Ygay was bottled perfection. But as we would soon find out, it was also the first turn in a rather twisted road.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After approximately 20 minutes, Ryan, our host poured the remaining contents from the flask. As he filled our glasses for the second time, Jacquie said she felt a rush of cold air.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I did too.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In fact, it was enough to make us both shiver momentarily.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Are you okay?” Ryan asked.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Didn’t you feel that?” I exclaimed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>“Someone probably just opened the front door, it’s cold out there tonight.” he reassured us.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The couple dining across from us had left some time before though I don’t recall seeing them leave; I must have been engrossed by the meal. Just as well I suppose, for with the second pour, the great Rioja had faded completely and in no way reflected the experience we had just enjoyed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Instead, the wine was sour and rather unpleasant.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Strange, I thought, the first glass remained perfect to the last drop.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Why should the wine within the open bottle be any different?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The second half of our evening was about to unfold as Ryan convinced Jacquie to see some fictitious renovation underway on the second floor; a story we invented the day before. Making our way upstairs to unveil the big surprise, something caught my eye causing me to glance back at our table. I hesitated for a moment but all that remained were the two wine glasses and the spirit of a once great bottle. Otherwise, the room was empty. As for the sudden chill in the air, when asked if someone had just opened the front door, another waiter replied “No, apart from the group upstairs, you two are our only guests so far this evening…”</span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Maiandra GD';"><o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
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Tyler Philphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09435914240300765715noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3337661775401884909.post-66769838679779148622012-11-10T07:28:00.000-05:002012-11-10T07:28:55.780-05:00The Tuscan Transition<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gYzEikpCfGI/UJ2S2VTy4bI/AAAAAAAACVA/sNDRCkUCeGc/s1600/Super+Tuscan+wine+Tyler+Philp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gYzEikpCfGI/UJ2S2VTy4bI/AAAAAAAACVA/sNDRCkUCeGc/s200/Super+Tuscan+wine+Tyler+Philp.JPG" width="141" /></a><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Switching gears after a fantastic adventure in France</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, I am refocusing my attention on the great wines of </span><st1:country-region style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" w:st="on">Italy</st1:country-region><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">. Several functions this month have my creative juices running on overdrive. </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Firstly, I am conducting a tutored tasting for a private group of 20 and they've
asked for an Italian theme. For that, I'm thinking Presecco, Orvieto, Barbera, Barolo, and Amarone. The evening is sure to be a memorable event.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Additionally, I'll be the guest host on Twitters WineChat at 9 pm on November 28th where we are talking Super Tuscan wines in the most informative, action-packed, and welcoming environment imaginable - join us if you can! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I've also
just renewed my writing agreement with </span><st1:city style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" w:st="on">Oakville</st1:city><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">'s
online newspaper for another six month run. Do take a moment to visit the site at Oakville.com where you can read about the history of Chianti and the impact of
the Super Tuscan phenomenon on that region.</span></div>
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Cheers,</div>
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Tyler</div>
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Link to <a href="http://www.oakville.com/articles/the-super-tuscan-chiantis-saviour/">Oakville.com</a></div>
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Tyler Philphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09435914240300765715noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3337661775401884909.post-82800172462606569442012-10-18T13:39:00.000-04:002013-01-05T08:40:18.761-05:00Burgundy – exploring the Côte d’Or, part one<!-- Start Alexa Certify Javascript -->
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On a recent trip to <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state> in France I found myself on a voyage of both exploration and reflection. My
need to understand this complex wine region extends well beyond what others
have written or what my own tasting notes reflect. In order to explain
the complexity of Burgundy to enthusiastic newcomers, one must stand at the
foot of these great vineyards and stare upon the contour of the land, watch the
clouds as they form over the tree-topped hills, and touch the stone-walled
cellars that have held bottles for centuries of passing vintages. The trip was
truly an enlightenment of wine fascination and as a friend pointed out after
the fact, a pilgrimage.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I enjoy wine from every grape growing region in the world, some more than
others but I also appreciate the variations in aroma, body, and taste that each
country and region has to offer. Occasionally that difference is rather
blatant, other times less so, but in every example it is (or should be) unique.
This constant variable is what has kept me motivated. If all wines were
to taste the same, I'd likely drink something else - or figure out how to make
my own.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ShMWTzHbzxc/UIAwujUyJOI/AAAAAAAACA8/jPaLyDrlOxg/s1600/reflection.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="159" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ShMWTzHbzxc/UIAwujUyJOI/AAAAAAAACA8/jPaLyDrlOxg/s200/reflection.JPG" width="200" /></a>The region that I continually gravitate toward is the Côte d'Or in <st1:country -region="-region" w:st="on">France</st1:country>.
The 'Golden Slope' is the main body of <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state> and its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay
are my choices for dinner more often than not.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state> is a
place that in terms of both theory and taste, I know very well. But in
order to satisfy my own sense of fulfillment, I feel compelled to visit the
source of these wines, to walk along the twisted vineyard roads, taste the
fruit straight from the vine, and sample local wines as I make my way from
one village to the next.</span></div>
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For the same reason that people are drawn to the mysteries of Stonehenge, <st1:country -region="-region" w:st="on">China's Great Wall</st1:country>, or <st1:place w:st="on">Easter Island</st1:place> in the south Pacific, I was looking for
answers to a number of questions: What is it that makes this place unique? Could
it just be a gross exaggeration as a result of perception? Why should I
or anyone else pay such a premium to enjoy it?</div>
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I found the answers that I was looking for plus a few more along the way and
I'd like to share my thoughts and observations with you over the next couple of posts.</div>
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Thinking back to a little over a decade ago, I too was discouraged by <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state>'s complex label
language, classification system, and degree of vintage variation. The
region is a double-edged sword of sorts; to the serious wine enthusiast it might
represents vinous perfection, but as a new comer, the labels are next to
impossible to understand and if you dare to 'cheap-out' on your purchase,
disappointment is certain. Unfortunately that disappointment often leads
to discouragement which in terms of wine selection tends to guide people back
to the path of least resistance i.e. <st1:country -region="-region" w:st="on">Australia</st1:country>,
<st1:state w:st="on">California</st1:state>, and the slopes of <st1:place w:st="on">South America</st1:place>.</div>
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So why bother? In my case, the need to explore the unknown will always
demand immediate attention. Your attraction to this place and its wine
may be entirely different.</div>
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My first experience with <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state>
was highly atypical, somewhat lucky, and extremely positive; it involved a
bottle of 1999 Vosne-Romanée. The bottle, while seemingly
impressive, was an impulse buy while out of town. The luck factor is that
there is no (or should not be any) bad wine made in the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placetype w:st="on">village</st1:placetype> of <st1:placename w:st="on">Vosne Romanée</st1:placename></st1:place>;
I had no comprehension of that at the time, and had it been Vougeot or Volnay,
the outcome may have been quite different. The key to buying good <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state> is to know not
only the village and vintage, but also the vineyard if applicable, and more
importantly the producer or domaine that has made the wine. After serving
the 1999 Domaine Misset, Vosne-Romanée les Barreaux as an alternative to the richer and more
full-bodied styles of Shiraz and Amarone that normally accompany dinner at our home, the <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state> created a
bizarre moment of silence in the room. Each person at the table
simultaneously stopped, took a moment to stare at their glass, and then asked
what it was that we were drinking and where it was from.</div>
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Beyond "It's Pinot Noir from <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state>."
I really didn't have an answer for them. The catch, however, is that it
took me numerous attempts, multiple bottles, and hundreds of dollars to come
even remotely close to recreating that sense of awe. Now in my world,
this is the recipe for fascination and it has lead me on a continual search for that 'perfect bottle'.</div>
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The blunt truth is that most people will not take the time to understand this
and I cannot overemphasis how critically important that is for the rest of us; <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state> is not
mass-produced. There is by no means enough of it for everyone. In fact, I cringe at the thought of finding a bottle of premier cru Chambolle-Musigny on the wine list at The
Keg or on the store shelf at Costco in the States. These places sell
fruit-bombs to people who rarely step outside the scope of beverage mediocrity. A bottle of fine Burgundy in this environment would be tragically lost.
The supply of <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state>
is restricted by the structure of the vineyard classification system and
resultant land on which the vines were planted long ago. Its complexity and
rarity are also what make it appealing to those who desire to know and are
willing to spend a little more.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tIoZML1Xbjw/UIA6DGUWNHI/AAAAAAAACCk/UF27rOi5P0M/s1600/Cross+at+Romanee+Conti+2+Tyler+Philp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tIoZML1Xbjw/UIA6DGUWNHI/AAAAAAAACCk/UF27rOi5P0M/s320/Cross+at+Romanee+Conti+2+Tyler+Philp.JPG" width="190" /></a>The name Côte d'Or is a reflection of the changing autumn leaves that catch the
morning sun on the hills that rise to the west - I saw it, and yes, it is truly
breathtaking, though I do find myself wondering if the golden slope more
accurately relates to the money these vines have generated for the Church over
the last 1000 years. The production and sale of wine in <st1:country -region="-region" w:st="on">France</st1:country> has historically translated into great
wealth and after the collapse of the Roman Empire, the Church acquired many of
the prized vineyards in <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state>
through donations from the monarchy. In
the hands of the Church, these vineyards theoretically stood a greater chance
of surviving both political and hostile transition. It was the Church that shaped and structured
many of the vineyards in the region. The wine produced and its intoxicating effect has generated a significant
amount of highly controversial income for the ‘House of God’.</div>
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In modern times, the supply versus demand placed on Burgundy by the western world and now a new
Asian market is unfortunately what continues to drive the price from marginally
affordable to totally unreasonable. Along a 45km stretch of road
extending between <st1:city w:st="on">Dijon</st1:city>
to the north and Santenay in the hills to the south you will find the most
expensive farmland in the world. At the upper end of the quality
spectrum, the bottled wine reflects not only the spirit of the land, but its
value as well.</div>
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<st1:state w:st="on"><div style="text-align: justify;">
<st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state> is
surrounded by history, legend, and lore; it really is quite spectacular to witness in person. Amazingly, very little has changed along this narrow band
of fields on the hillside. As you walk along the vineyard access roads
and sit on the edge of the stone walls, you quickly realize that time in the Côte d’Or has stood still and that these good people really don’t care about what is popular, they
have little interest in the latest trends, or how many million cases of
pink fizz Champagne sold last Valentine’s Day. Such concerns don’t enter the
thought process or formula that winemakers here follow. With the
exception of a few items of convenience, they make wine in <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state> using the same philosophy as their
ancestors did in the 18th century. Once you grasp this concept, only then
will you begin to discover the magic of the incredible wine region.</div>
</st1:state>
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In my <a href="http://northof9finewine.blogspot.ca/2012/10/burgundy-exploring-cote-dor-part-two.html">next post</a>, I invite you to walk with me from Fixin to Morey-Saint-Denis, stopping
to tasting along the way.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://northof9finewine.blogspot.ca/2012/10/burgundy-exploring-cote-dor-part-two.html">~> Burgundy Part Two</a><br />
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</div>Tyler Philphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09435914240300765715noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3337661775401884909.post-71873623709125598902012-10-17T22:07:00.000-04:002013-01-05T08:44:04.806-05:00Burgundy - exploring the Côte d'Or, part two
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<i><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Link to previous post: <a href="http://northof9finewine.blogspot.ca/2012/10/burgundy-exploring-cote-dor-part-1.html">Part 1</a></span></i><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lkmq0Abi0OI/UINDri3CkRI/AAAAAAAACEY/1TnHPicxwdE/s1600/Chateau+Gevrey-Chambertin+Tyler+Philp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="283" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lkmq0Abi0OI/UINDri3CkRI/AAAAAAAACEY/1TnHPicxwdE/s400/Chateau+Gevrey-Chambertin+Tyler+Philp.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chateau Gevrey-Chambertin</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>Note: This is a long post. Please pour yourself a glass of wine and enjoy.</i><br /> <br />Arriving in </span><st1:place style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Paris</st1:city></st1:place><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
under an overcast sky brought forth a rush of memories. Thirteen years ago I
lived here briefly, teaching airline pilots from the </span><st1:placename style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" w:st="on">Channel</st1:placename><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
</span><st1:placetype style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" w:st="on">Island</st1:placetype><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> of the </span><st1:country -region="-region" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" w:st="on">U.K.</st1:country><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> at </span><st1:place style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Paris</st1:city></st1:place><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">’
Le Bourget airport. My interest in wine at that time was only just beginning to
flourish and but for a few bottles brought home to Canada, I spent my free
moments exploring the artistic and architectural side of this great city rather
that the vast wine regions of France.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The vineyards of <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state>'s Côte d'Or begin just south of
<st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Dijon</st1:city></st1:place>.
Amazingly, there are no visible vines in the countryside during the hour and a half train ride south from <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Paris</st1:city></st1:place>. Arriving in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Dijon</st1:city></st1:place>, I find myself completely exhausted
from the journey. A wiser man would manage a few hours of rest
prior continuing on, but no, this town is desperately in need of my attention.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">At first glance, <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Dijon</st1:city></st1:place>
is non-descript, slightly run down, and easy enough to pass by on the highway without notice. But at the centre of town is one of the most picturesque
and captivating collection of shops, restaurants, and boutiques that I have
come across in years. It was hard to resist
purchasing a few bottles but the focus of my trip was to backpack through <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:place></st1:state> and thus I
really had no method of transport for anything that I might buy along the way.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Aside from the obvious mustard connection, Dijon is
home to the French aperitif drink Kir [<i>keer</i>]
which combines five parts Aligoté with one part crème de cassis. The Aligoté grape is grown
throughout <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:place></st1:state>
to make dry white wine though it is generally thought of as inferior to the
more exalted Chardonnay in the region. </span></div>
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After the rich tasting and slightly bitter glass of Kir, dinner on day one was a delicious Greek(ish)
salad appetizer followed by a beef-based dish in a red wine sauce with steamed vegetables.
I should note that well over a decade has passed since I last sat down to a meal in France. Apparently I've forgotten that unless the meat is slow cooked to a tender perfection
i.e. bourguignon style, the French are seemingly unable to grill steak. Furthermore and for future reference, medium equates to petrified shoe leather, but that's okay: the first time it was their mistake, the second time it was mine. </div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RrjxIApwTl4/UINLknthnwI/AAAAAAAACFM/lJLIH0Mapic/s1600/diiner+in+Dijon.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RrjxIApwTl4/UINLknthnwI/AAAAAAAACFM/lJLIH0Mapic/s200/diiner+in+Dijon.JPG" width="148" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A simple bottle of '09 <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Bourgogne</st1:place></st1:state>,
Hautes Côtes de Nuits from Domaine Bonnardot with dinner was my first opportunity to taste from the region. The
vineyards of the Hautes Côtes de Nuits lie along the outskirts of the greater
Côte d'Or and do not hold the same level of prestige due to inferior soil
composition and/or poor exposure. This
bottle was graced by the label of the
Chevaliers du Tastevin which in theory is an indication of quality via a rigorous selection process
among submitted wines; i.e. the best of what is left. I suspect that my ’09 Hautes Côtes de Nuits was
exactly that. The wine was more floral
than fruity my notes say; medicinal at times; clumsy and almost artificial. I shall need to find a better example.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If dinner was slightly substandard, the view of the cathedrals and old
architecture on my way back to the hotel made up for any gastronomic
shortcomings. <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Dijon</st1:city></st1:place>
is a stunningly beautiful town full of history and I will certainly return with my wife for a vacation, but
for now, there is a pillow with my name on it.</span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EHbb-LAzP2U/UINMldgZpDI/AAAAAAAACFU/rpjTrOHDhFs/s1600/Cathedral+in+Dijon+Tyler+Philp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EHbb-LAzP2U/UINMldgZpDI/AAAAAAAACFU/rpjTrOHDhFs/s320/Cathedral+in+Dijon+Tyler+Philp.JPG" width="238" /></a><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The sound of intoxicated song awoke me at 3 am provoking the following
message via Twitter moments later:</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>'It’s 3 am, a drunken Frenchman is singing outside my window. </i></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>Options:
a) close window, b) throw something, c) go outside and join him.'</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Votes from home were unanimously in favour of joining the party...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A short taxi ride in the morning to the tiny <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placetype w:st="on">village</st1:placetype>
of <st1:placename w:st="on">Fixin</st1:placename></st1:place> found me at beginning of my hike southbound to Vougeot on day two. In this post, I’ll take you as far as the
walls of Morey-Saint-Denis.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The gateway to the
Côte d'Or and is found just south of the rosé producing village of Marsannay-la-Côte
where Fixin [<i>Fissen</i>] marks the beginning of the routes des Grand Crus. I'll walk the 45km route
from here to Santenay over the next 3 days stopping in each village to taste
the wines that represent the style and terroir of that commune.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fixin is a quaint village, slightly more than a populated intersection
while its neighbour and overbearing brother to the south is the great Gevrey-Chambertin.
The vines here hardly differentiate between the two names, which makes the
Pinot Noir from Fixin a remarkably good deal by comparison. Within Fixin is a museum dedicated to the life and accomplishments of Napoléon,
but my degree of focus had me bypass the French hero's memorial to taste the
product of the vine instead.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A few days prior and while still in Canada, Jacquie and I enjoyed a bottle of 2006 Fixin from
Domaine Gelin and I will attest to the claims that this village is indeed a
little known opportunity and source of great wine. On the way through Fixin, I stopped by a
local restaurant just before the lunch hour to sample a taste of the village in
the form of Domaine Joliet. As you work your way south along the Côte de
Nuits, the Pinot becomes increasingly more delicate and at time quite perfumed.
As expected, this premier cru wine was deeply coloured and medium bodied with
hints of mint, cinnamon, and cranberry on the nose; uplifting tastes of dried
cranberry, cherry, and just the slightest spice on the finish - quite
nice. </span></div>
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Outside of General Bonaparte's accomplishments and demise, Fixin has one of the
few remaining outdoor laundry facilities. And while I appreciate how bizarre
that may sound in the context of a wine article, the structure is actually
quite impressive. The ‘washhouse’ as it is known vaguely resembles a
miniature-scale Roman colosseum, and if you
use your imagination, you can still hear the ladies’ conversations around this once
daily activity - I smile and walk on.</div>
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The first true indication of what breathtaking sights wait along this historic
route become obvious as you leave the village of Fixin and make your way toward
the legendary vineyards of Gevrey-Chambertin. The distance between these two
villages is no more that 3km but the sight of the ‘golden slope’ extending up
to the tree line above and the stone walled <i>clos</i>
that define each plot of vines is truly awe-inspiring. A smaller community known as Brochon lies between
Fixin and Gevrey-Chambertin, though the wine produced here is not recognized
under its own name and can only be sold as Côte de Nuits Villages. The law and historic rules of vineyard
classification define this land but as you look beyond the vines you can’t help
but wonder how much of this certification is (or was) purely political in
nature. Over a distance of 3km, on a
hill that barely changes either direction or slope, how much of a noticeable
difference could there possibly be in the quality of the fruit produced? I taste the grapes as I pass by the various
vineyards: aux Herbues, Préau, and en
Champs; there is very little difference at all.
A moment of doubt on my part…<br />
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A place like Gevrey-Chambertin could be famous for a number of reasons: the landscape is beautiful, the building are historic, and the wine is arguably second to no other. The Grand Cru Chambertin was Napoléan's favourite wine and remains one of <st1:state w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:place></st1:state>'s greatest
labels. It commands incredible prices at auctions and leaves those lucky
enough to try it scarred for life since little else will ever compare again. I consider myself one of the fortunate.</div>
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“I forget the name of the place; I forget the name of the girl; but the wine
was Chambertin.” </div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">- Hilaire
Belloc (1870-1953)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On my right as I enter the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placetype w:st="on">village</st1:placetype>
of <st1:placename w:st="on">Gevrey-Chambertin</st1:placename></st1:place> is
the oldest Château in the region. Pigeons fly in and out of the 13th century
tower as an elderly woman tends to the gardens below. It is unquestionably beautiful and represents
an important component of French history. But much to the chagrin of the
local winemakers, this historic French landmark and its vineyards were recently
purchased by a Chinese business tycoon and casino owner.
In the words of one resident of the village: "How would the
Chinese like it if we bought a portion of their Great Wall? This is our heritage, not theirs." Let
us hope for the best <i>mes amis</i>,
perhaps it is all in good taste.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In the centre of Gevrey-Chambertin I stop to visit with Domaine Philippe
Leclerc. I've tried his wines twice before while travelling in the <st1:country -region="-region" w:st="on">US</st1:country> but unfortunately the domaine does not ship
to <st1:country -region="-region" w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Canada</st1:place></st1:country>
due to our alcohol taxation laws. The six wines that I taste all quite
good and clearly demonstrate the range of classification
between regional <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:state w:st="on">Bourgogne</st1:state></st1:place>
and Grand cru status here in Gevrey. Tasting wine however, is only one aspect of
this adventure: the architecture and what lies beneath each of these
villages is truly what fascinates me. Monsieur Tyler would you like to
see our cellar? ...</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZZck43owOBI/UINE_V_idYI/AAAAAAAACEg/ngDWEaMCDwE/s1600/Cellar+at+Leclerc+Tyler+Philp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZZck43owOBI/UINE_V_idYI/AAAAAAAACEg/ngDWEaMCDwE/s320/Cellar+at+Leclerc+Tyler+Philp.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">the cellars at Leclerc</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">14th century architecture is both alluring and captivating. The
hand-carved stone, vaulted ceilings and bold ironwork all state a sense of power
and presence. Now fill that same
structure with bottles, old wooden casks, and antique light fixtures and you suddenly
have my undivided attention. To be very
honest, the wine becomes secondary as I ponder how French stonemasons might
have constructed these vast tunnels below the surface. In most cases the
excavated material was used to construct buildings on the surface; essentially,
that is how <st1:city w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Paris</st1:place></st1:city>
was built as well. As an outsider you
can only adventure so far before reaching a makeshift barricade that blocks the
rest of the tunnel. I asked why it was
blocked and was told that all the underground caverns are connected. At one point, they said, you could walk
beneath the surface to any one of the cellars in the village. Many sections of these cavernous passageways have
undergone some aspect of restoration over time, but to a person from the 'new
world' they represent a wonderful glimpse of the past. The décor of the cellar
below Domaine Leclerc has a strange but intriguing medieval theme; I like it,
and as I walk through the tunnels stopping to marvel at the thousands of bottles
that are neatly stacked, I feel as though someone or something is watching my
every move.</span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f5PsFnmLvwI/UIM6b8BWUgI/AAAAAAAACD0/BKqQrW3rtS0/s1600/Dragon+in+Gevrey+Chambertin+Tyler+Philp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="210" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f5PsFnmLvwI/UIM6b8BWUgI/AAAAAAAACD0/BKqQrW3rtS0/s320/Dragon+in+Gevrey+Chambertin+Tyler+Philp.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Happy Halloween!</td></tr>
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Leaving the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placetype w:st="on">village</st1:placetype>
of <st1:placename w:st="on">Gevery-Chambertin</st1:placename></st1:place> I
make my way over the next hill and continue toward Morey-Saint-Denis. Along the path, I stop to taste the fruit
from the vines of the Grand Cru vineyards of Mazis Chambertin and the great
Chambertin itself. I have no
constraints, no obligation or deadlines.
My only schedule is to be in Vougeot at some point tonight. What an incredible place.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
In my <a href="http://northof9finewine.blogspot.ca/2012/10/burgundy-exploring-cote-dor-part-three.html">next post</a>, join me to taste the beautifully fragrant wines of
Chambolle-Musigny and spend the night in historic Vougeot with a bottle of
Grand Cru Corton. It’s all good…</div>
</span><br />
<a href="http://northof9finewine.blogspot.ca/2012/10/burgundy-exploring-cote-dor-part-three.html">~> Burgundy Part Three</a>
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<!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]-->
<!--[endif]--><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span>Tyler Philphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09435914240300765715noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3337661775401884909.post-72713855910668851362012-10-16T21:38:00.000-04:002013-01-05T08:47:47.063-05:00Burgundy – exploring the Côte d’Or, part three
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>Link to the previous posts: <a href="http://northof9finewine.blogspot.ca/2012/10/burgundy-exploring-cote-dor-part-1.html">Part 1</a> and <a href="http://northof9finewine.blogspot.ca/2012/10/burgundy-exploring-cote-dor-part-two.html">Part 2</a></i></span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wJ5USdwRrZU/UIcyJKYxRwI/AAAAAAAACF4/KKGtpH-aunk/s1600/Pinot+Noir+from+Mazis-Chambertin+Tyler+Philp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wJ5USdwRrZU/UIcyJKYxRwI/AAAAAAAACF4/KKGtpH-aunk/s200/Pinot+Noir+from+Mazis-Chambertin+Tyler+Philp.JPG" width="145" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Leaving behind Gevrey-Chambertin and its medieval cellars, the
next of the great vineyards to greet me along the route des Grands Crus in </span><st1:state style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> is the source
of the glorious Mazis-Chambertin. Any fruit still hanging on the vine is now
ripe after being initially bypassed during the harvest a few weeks ago. </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">At one point, peasants were allowed to pick
these forgotten grapes for their own use after the harvest was complete; now
they are simply left for the birds and/or Canadians who happen to pass by – I
can’t resist picking a bunch to sample on the way to Morey St. Denis.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Nearly 4km of vines separate Gevrey from Morey and I take my time to absorb the
beauty of the land, sample the fruit, and snap a few pictures along the
way. In the vineyard of Clos de Bèze is
one of the more photographed landmarks in the northern half of the Côte d'Or.
Perhaps the popularity of Domaine Pierre Damoy's vineyard storage shed is
best explained by the need for a visual distraction among the continuous span
of vines. At the same location, I meet up with a couple from <st1:country -region="-region" w:st="on">Australia</st1:country>. We had met the day before in <st1:city w:st="on">Dijon</st1:city> where they told me the were driving
the route southbound in search of blue sky and sandy beaches, eventually
stopping at Nice on the <st1:place w:st="on">Mediterranean Sea</st1:place> - Santenay
is far enough for me; I don't do well in the hot sun anyway. </span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ytT8TYzK_G8/UIcyd5jVwHI/AAAAAAAACGA/aZf2zBa9y-I/s1600/Shack+at+Beze-Chambertin+Tyler+Philp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ytT8TYzK_G8/UIcyd5jVwHI/AAAAAAAACGA/aZf2zBa9y-I/s320/Shack+at+Beze-Chambertin+Tyler+Philp.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Chambertin, I understand was General Napoleon’s drink of choice when not in
battle; for that, he sabred champagne. The wall along the roadside in
front of this great vineyard is rustic, worn and yet remains a clear marker and
indication of its presence in the field. Articles of clothing are strewn
along the roadside: jeans, sweaters and the occasion pair of shoes. For a
moment I think this might be some symbolic French gesture; for decades the people
of <st1:city w:st="on">Toronto</st1:city>
would touch Timothy Eaton's toe on the bronze statue in the Eaton Centre for
good luck. Does leaving a shirt or socks at the wall of Chambertin bring
good fortune? Not at all, in fact a few weeks before, literally swarms of
harvesters dressed in multiple layers of clothing combed this land, stripping
(no pun intended) the vines of their fruit. During the day they'd shed a
layer or two as the temperature began to climb. But as they work their way along the rows,
they'd forget the clothing they had peeled off earlier. Amazingly, there
is no litter in the form of garbage whatsoever, just clothing, and a surprising
amount of it. </div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nDaEtKEL6oE/UIczluuDNsI/AAAAAAAACGI/SyIWJS8AgEA/s1600/clothing+at+Chambertin+Tyler+Philp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nDaEtKEL6oE/UIczluuDNsI/AAAAAAAACGI/SyIWJS8AgEA/s200/clothing+at+Chambertin+Tyler+Philp.JPG" width="148" /></a></div>
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Morey St. Denis is a small village and home of the Grand Cru vineyards of Clos
des Lambrays, Clos St. Denis, and Clos de Tart - why I snicker at the last is
purely the fault of Monte Python's Flying Circus and their tale of Sir Galahad the Pure and the virgins of castle Anthrax... In 1141 the vineyard of Clos de Tart became a beacon of light cared for the Cistercian nuns of Notre Dame de Tart... you get the idea.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6JfDtcJw5og/UIc1ekGUwpI/AAAAAAAACGQ/NrJaMU2WEcU/s1600/In+Morey+Tyler+Philp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="244" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6JfDtcJw5og/UIc1ekGUwpI/AAAAAAAACGQ/NrJaMU2WEcU/s320/In+Morey+Tyler+Philp.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In Morey St. Denis</td></tr>
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In the centre <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placetype w:st="on">square</st1:placetype>
of <st1:placename w:st="on">Morey</st1:placename></st1:place> is a good bakery
and following the trek from Fixin, a pain au chocolate and bottle of water
taste just about perfect as I lean against the limestone wall that encloses Domaine
Louis Remy. I ask about the wines of Morey-St.
Denis and taste several examples. The
one that leaves the greatest impression is the 2004 premier cru les Ruchots
from Domaine Amiot. Its colour is still quite deep and consistent with that
of Gevrey-Chambertin while the aroma and favour profiles now hint at something slightly
more delicate. </div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In conversation, I learn that on the hill behind Morey St.
Denis is a plot of vines that break from tradition in the Côte de Nuits.
Just below the tree line nearing the top of the steep incline is a plot known
as Monts Luisants.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here Aligoté grows in
the surrounding </span><st1:place style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" w:st="on"><st1:placetype w:st="on">sea</st1:placetype>
of <st1:placename w:st="on">Pinot Noir</st1:placename></st1:place><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> vineyards.
The wine of this rogue vineyard demonstrates the suppressed potential of
the seemingly second-class grape in the region. AOC law stipulated that
Monts Luisants cannot be sold outside of the region, but when in </span><st1:state style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, it is
certainly worth seeking out for a taste of something slightly off the beaten
path.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P8qOZhfag7c/UIc2ZoJrNuI/AAAAAAAACGY/COQp5hDzeVM/s1600/Monts+Luisants+Tyler+Philp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P8qOZhfag7c/UIc2ZoJrNuI/AAAAAAAACGY/COQp5hDzeVM/s320/Monts+Luisants+Tyler+Philp.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Monts Luisants top right</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Beyond Morey St. Denis is Chambolle-Musigny. Here one begins to feel the
calling of <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state>.
By no means are the other villages
anti-climatic – certainly not, but they do not project the ambiance and visual
effect in my opinion. I've also had my share of wine from
Chambolle-Musigny so perhaps familiarity plays a factor in my preference. Originally, the village was known simply as
Chambolle, but like Gevrey 'Chambertin' and Morey 'Saint-Denis', a trend
initiated in 1847 allowed some villages to add the name of their greatest
vineyard as a suffix and hence the many hyphenated names along the Côte d’Or. Relative to the other villages, Chambolle-Musigny
sits quite high on the hill where construction of the road network required
terraced walls. In some places these stonewalls
are over ten feet high. Baskets of flowers, religious artifacts and
symbols adorn the various buildings and walled properties as you climb the
gentle incline toward a hairpin turn that sends you eastward in the direction
of Vougeot.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MDfOx1dJHOw/UIc4AbG1lbI/AAAAAAAACGg/iZCXXnr2bjQ/s1600/Wall+at+Chambolle-Musigny+Tyler+Philp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MDfOx1dJHOw/UIc4AbG1lbI/AAAAAAAACGg/iZCXXnr2bjQ/s320/Wall+at+Chambolle-Musigny+Tyler+Philp.JPG" width="250" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stunning Chambolle-Musigny</td></tr>
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Chambolle-Musigny is where the Côte d'Or begins to change, both
is its style of wine and direction of landscape. A hill in the escarpment
juts out rather abruptly projecting the vineyards adjacent to the village on a
more northeasterly heading. This change
combined with the variation of soil is what dictates the difference in the
wine. By comparison, Chambolle-Musigny is somewhat delicate, feminine
some say, and slightly lighter in both body and taste than the fuller Gevrey-Chambertin.
Slightly floral notes with bright red fruits such as raspberry and cherry
define these wines; dried cranberry to taste with dusty tannins on the finish –
I could drink Chambolle all day. In
fact, some of the best Burgundies that I have tasted are from this beautiful
village and the vineyards that grow on the hills beneath it. Notable are
the wines of Domain Alain Hudelot-Noëllat if you ever have the opportunity.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QKrjIfBkzS0/UIc9AU1MLzI/AAAAAAAACHM/8E-LqfvVRD0/s1600/Chambolle-Musigny+Tyler+Philp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QKrjIfBkzS0/UIc9AU1MLzI/AAAAAAAACHM/8E-LqfvVRD0/s320/Chambolle-Musigny+Tyler+Philp.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Change of direction at Chambolle</td></tr>
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The Grand Cru vineyard of Le Musigny is the source of one of the top Pinot Noir
wines in the region, but what make this vineyard unique is that it is also the
only vineyard in the Côte de Nuits to produce a Grand Cru white in addition to
a red. All others Grand Cru white
vineyards are found in the Côte de Beaune which is further south. </div>
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I have walked nearly 10km by this point in the day not to mention the combined
distance of trekking through the occasional vineyard. Furthermore, I
don't claim to be in great shape; average perhaps but certain not the pillar of
health that I once was. Let's just say strong-willed I
remain, but my God, do I ever need to sit down!</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CVJ1j5wgr8g/UIc5J8x4ZdI/AAAAAAAACGo/UEbL_iq_AzI/s1600/cross+over+Vougeot+Tyler+Philp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CVJ1j5wgr8g/UIc5J8x4ZdI/AAAAAAAACGo/UEbL_iq_AzI/s320/cross+over+Vougeot+Tyler+Philp.JPG" width="238" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Watching over Vougeot</td></tr>
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Beyond the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placetype w:st="on">village</st1:placetype>
of <st1:placename w:st="on">Chambolle-Musigny</st1:placename></st1:place> the
route des Grands Crus descends toward what is perhaps the most historically
significant area in the region. Château de Vougeot and its walled
vineyard appear beyond the hill and I stop to marvel at the view. On my
left is an ancient stone crucifix. The old cross stands at the edge of the
Premier Cru vineyards of les Charmes and les Armoureuses [<i>the lovers</i>]. Les Armoureuses is said
to be the most picturesque vineyard in the Côte d'Or and as I overlook the next
leg of my journey, I can find no possible way to dispute that claim. I also
have no doubt that heavenly bodies watch over the old vines that flourish in
the vineyards below. During the time of the Church, the nuns planted this
plot and rumour has it that in more recent times, les Armoureuses became the place
where a young man could bring his girlfriend after hours… Oh la la! </div>
</span>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On the horizon is Vosne-Romanée and Nuits Saint George
beyond; I will stay there tomorrow night, but for now, I have a reservation at
the base of the hill in Vougeot.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Vougeot is little more than a main street of average looking buildings and
shops. By far, the most significant landmark here is the historic 14th
century Château which I will visit in the morning. I understand that what the
village lacks is visual appearance it more than makes up for in dinning
delight. Across from the bed and breakfast where I am spending tonight is
a modern restaurant with a good reputation for beef bourguignon. </span></div>
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Entering the restaurant I can't help but notice an open bottle of Grand Cru Corton sitting on the bar
as the waiter escorts me to my table. A glass of Kir soothes my throbbing
leg muscles as I peruse the menu, but the bottle of Corton remains the focus of
not only my attention but of the couple sitting beside me as well. Strangely, there
is no one else in the dinning room and the light behind the bar revels that
only one glass was poured from the bottle. Curiously, I ask.</div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-79-KejNsyCA/UIc5i9e0yXI/AAAAAAAACGw/fZrNwunYOGQ/s1600/Grand+Cru+Corton+Tyler+Philp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-79-KejNsyCA/UIc5i9e0yXI/AAAAAAAACGw/fZrNwunYOGQ/s200/Grand+Cru+Corton+Tyler+Philp.JPG" width="154" /></a></div>
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Our server explains that the bottle was opened for a table at lunch. The
guest in question turned the wine away, suggesting it was flawed. Hardly surprising
I state, the 2009 vintage is by no means ready to drink. But this bottle
had now sat open all afternoon which in theory should be ample time to breath
for the dinner hour. I negotiated with both the waiter and the couple
beside me. We agreed to split the cost
down the middle to enjoy the four remaining glasses. </div>
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<br /></div>
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I am a firm believer
that wine will always taste better if it involves a good story and the '09 Grand
Cru Corton, les Maréschaudes was delicious alongside beef bourguignon which was
cooked to perfection. For dessert, our server brought mousse au
chocolate for the three of us and on the house as a gesture of gratitude for
salvaging the expense of the bottle. After dinner I staggered back to my
room for a hot shower and a well-needed rest.
Morning comes far too early here in <st1:country -region="-region" w:st="on">France</st1:country>.</div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
Tomorrow I head to Château Clos de Vougeot, then on to the famous vineyards
Vosne-Romanée, and finally to Nuits Saint Georges for dinner in a Michelin Star
restaurant. <a href="http://northof9finewine.blogspot.ca/2012/10/burgundy-exploring-cote-dor-part-four.html">Join me as the journey
continues</a>…</div>
</span><br />
<a href="http://northof9finewine.blogspot.ca/2012/10/burgundy-exploring-cote-dor-part-four.html">~> Read Burgundy Part Four</a>
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Tyler Philphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09435914240300765715noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3337661775401884909.post-16394749345065437452012-10-15T08:08:00.000-04:002013-01-05T09:09:38.020-05:00Burgundy – exploring the Côte d’Or, part four
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>Link to the previous posts: <a href="http://northof9finewine.blogspot.ca/2012/10/burgundy-exploring-cote-dor-part-1.html">Part 1</a>, <a href="http://northof9finewine.blogspot.ca/2012/10/burgundy-exploring-cote-dor-part-two.html">Part 2</a></i> and <a href="http://northof9finewine.blogspot.ca/2012/10/burgundy-exploring-cote-dor-part-three.html"><i>Part 3</i></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The sound of a passing rain shower wakes me at 4:30 in
Vougeot. It is forecast to be wet here all week, though thankfully the saturated sky has managed to keep to itself through the daylight hours. As I lay awake, the tranquility of the rain against the clay-tiled roof is a peaceful reminder of
what has drawn me to the Côte d'Or in the first place.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Deep in the heart of </span><st1:state style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">,
I am in search of an explanation for why so much has been written about this
land and the wine that it produces. There are many great regions that
both fascinate and captivate the imaginations of wine drinkers around the
world: Loire, Napa, Bordeaux, and the Mosel to name a few, but there is also a
common understanding among wine professionals and enthusiasts that Burgundy and
its Côte d'Or represent the very soul of this vast subject. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Breakfast is a selection of breads and preserves along with a pitcher of orange
juice as I spend a few minutes chatting with the inn's owner about which
direction my hike will proceed from Vougeot.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ac-3k8voPeQ/UI0L_7eUXnI/AAAAAAAACKo/sfFnPevr0O0/s1600/Chateau+Clos+de+Vougeot+Tyler+Philp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ac-3k8voPeQ/UI0L_7eUXnI/AAAAAAAACKo/sfFnPevr0O0/s320/Chateau+Clos+de+Vougeot+Tyler+Philp.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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Château Clos de Vougeot sits at the top of what is arguably the most historically
important vineyard in all of <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state>.
I am marvelled by the 13th century split-stone wall. It took the Cistercian
monks over one hundred years to construct the barricade that surrounds and
isolates the vines within. Along the road to the gates of Château Clos de
Vougeot I am somewhat discouraged by the tour bus that passes me. I suppose that I am a tourist as well, though
I have no interest in a guided tour at any point during this trip. The bus barrels-on
past a set of thousand-year-old iron gates that open into the great vineyard
beyond. I stop to grasp the handle as if
it were my place to step into the vineyard and assess the quality and ripeness of
the fruit – it is not my place. Instead, I
imagine how many times over history this land has erupted with activity at a
moment’s notice. The harvest is delayed as long as possible to maximize the
sugar content in the grapes, but hail and frost can wipe-out a year's worth of
hard work in a single night. </div>
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<br /></div>
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Only a portion of the original 12th century Château Clos de Vougeot structure
exists today and a great deal of time and money has been spent to restore the
great building and its cellars below. The
Château is a true marvel of architectural significance crafted by the hands of the
abbey of Cîteaux. The monks who
relocated here renamed themselves the Cistercian and populated the hillside
with vines. The Clos de Vougeot
represents only one of the many vineyards in this commune that produces both
red and white wine. I won’t spend any
time on the history or interior of this building – numerous websites will
provide you with that information. It is
interesting to note that wine is no longer made in this great building. It serves only as a national landmark and
headquarters for the Chevalier du Tastevin who gather here monthly for their
grand-scale dinners and tasting functions.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jgHjYw_SK_A/UI0LSR22S7I/AAAAAAAACKg/cVGlQIElgrI/s1600/inside+Vougeot+Tyler+Philp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jgHjYw_SK_A/UI0LSR22S7I/AAAAAAAACKg/cVGlQIElgrI/s320/inside+Vougeot+Tyler+Philp.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Inside the Château, I ask about an alternate route to Vosne-Romanée and an
employee speaks of an old vineyard road that runs across the hills behind the
Château. "The path is in very bad condition Monsieur, full of pot holes”, she
says in good English. “Really it is only used by vineyard workers. You’ll need some good walking shoes if you plan
to go that way. Just keep walking toward the cathedral in Vosne,” she advises.
“The road will take you there eventually and please be careful along the way.”</div>
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<br /></div>
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Behind the Château on the hillside is the great vineyard Le Musigny with les
Armoureuses below it to the north. Chambolle is just beyond my view though I
can still see the old stone cross that marks its boundary. I can’t help
but wonder if someone else will stand beside it today and reflect on these
fields the same way that I did yesterday.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-apI3XiNMaq0/UI0OQgx8cPI/AAAAAAAACK4/uFvVAwC8q9o/s1600/Musigny+Tyler+Philp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-apI3XiNMaq0/UI0OQgx8cPI/AAAAAAAACK4/uFvVAwC8q9o/s320/Musigny+Tyler+Philp.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The condition of the road to Vosne-Romanée is not as poor as I envisioned and but for a few areas
that have washed out recently, I can easily make my way safely. Much has
been written about the incredible roofline of Château Clos de Vougeot. From the front of the building you sense the
magnitude but only from behind can you fully understand the complexity and the
surface area. Standing at the western most extreme of the wall with a handful
of grapes, I stare out over the vines at the great building. The tour group climb back aboard the bus,
having spent their money in the souvenir shop at the château and the vehicle eventually
disappears onto the highway at Vougeot. They've
missed the magic completely, I think to myself - it's really too bad.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wuNdL5I2aYU/UI0M4i60IhI/AAAAAAAACKw/mdRVlx6YtKg/s1600/behind+Vougeot+Tyler+Philp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wuNdL5I2aYU/UI0M4i60IhI/AAAAAAAACKw/mdRVlx6YtKg/s320/behind+Vougeot+Tyler+Philp.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The path veers off in a number of directions as you approach
the boundary between the communes of Vougeot, Flagey-Échézeaux, and Vosne-Romanée. Somewhat
afraid that I might miss something along the way, I choose my route carefully and make my
way along and the narrow path toward the vineyards of Grands Échézeaux, Clos
St. Denis, and les Suchots. The wine of
Échézeaux has befallen to the same fate as many complex German labels – you
can’t sell a wine to North Americans with a label that they can’t
pronounce. I happen to love the sound of
this name Échézeaux [Eh-shez-ow] and plan to capitalize on the purchasing
opportunity provided by its unfamiliarity.
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The beauty of this route is that I can stop wherever I want and stare at the
scenery for as long as I like. There is literally no one else here, that
is until a car suddenly appears at the top of the next hill zigzagging its way toward
me around the endless divots and potholes. They stop at the edge of le
Richebourg without a second glance at the grand cru vines and ask if this road
will take them to Chambolle-Musigny. I
happily point them in the right direction while warning about the washed out
shoulders ahead. As they pull away leaving the air filled with diesel
exhaust, a lady in the back seat shouts “You're almost there; it’s just over
the next hill.” </div>
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<div style="text-align: justify;">
While I am well aware of the cause of her excitement, I am certainly not prepared
for the imminent truths that lie waiting beyond the crest of the next hill.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YMwfVHixEW4/UI0R658KIVI/AAAAAAAACLc/jlcnl7op96A/s1600/Marker+stone+at+Romanee-Conti+Tyler+Philp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="235" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YMwfVHixEW4/UI0R658KIVI/AAAAAAAACLc/jlcnl7op96A/s320/Marker+stone+at+Romanee-Conti+Tyler+Philp.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Romanée-Conti is the vineyard source for the most expensive and rumoured
greatest wine in the world. I have yet to try it; perhaps some day the
opportunity will present itself, but I can't even begin to express the mixed feelings
that begin to unfold as this great vineyard appears before me. The
roadside is littered with people, cars, the occasional empty wine bottle, and
various other items left behind by the waves of daily visitors. It looks
like a country market (I have a picture but I've decided not to post it). A group is toasting each other with a bottle of
sparkling wine. They clink their glasses
as though they have just conquered <st1:place w:st="on">Everest</st1:place>.
As I approach, another group asks if I will take their picture as
they stand on the wall. Of course I oblige and they thank me while exclaiming,
"The greatest wine in the world – ya!" I don’t have the courage
to ask if they have actually tried it. It
dawns on me that I’ve just found the
equivalent of Niagara Falls in <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state>. Indeed, this location may be a wonder of the
world, in terms of wine, but the obvious over popularity has stipped an element of the magic from the grand cru to the point
where they need to place signs asking visitors to respect the vineyard. </div>
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Slightly further up the hillside and of no interest to the masses is a very
heavy and almost gothic style crucifix that marks the vineyard of aux Raignots.
I head for that point to escape the
people and wait for the air to clear. From
here one can see Vougeot to the north and Nuits-Saint-Georges beyond the crest to the south. The
clouds break for a moment and the sun shines on the sacred hillside as I watch
a worker who is replacing the older wooden stakes that support the training wires for the vines in the great vineyard below. He seems
immune to the people that flock to his site. Romanée-Conti is actually rather understated and but for the signs
asking visitors not to enter the vineyard, the wall that surrounds this plot really
bares no difference to any other that I have passed to this point. After
a few minutes the crowd begins to dissipate and I make my way back down the
hill.<br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A much older stone cross marks this site and I sit on the
wall for a while to watch the wind as it pushes the scattering clouds across
the top the Côte. The air descends upon
the leaves of the vines creating a gentle rustling sound that reminds me of my
children at home. It feels good to sit here
and just as I am about to keep moving toward the village, the gentleman working
in the field pauses his task and walks toward me. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">"I saw you yesterday walking from Morey-Saint-Denis."
he states in good English. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">“Yes, I'm
working my way from Fixin to Santenay. I
spent last night Vougeot." I respond.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">"That's a long way”, he smiles. “It's a good thing you
are young." </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">"Sadly not as young as I once was", I laugh.
</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Having noticed the Canadian flag on my backpack the day
before, he explains that he has family in <st1:city w:st="on">Montreal</st1:city>. We chat for a while about the difference in
French culture between the two countries and what reasons have led me to <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state>. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">“Can I ask if this wine really lives up to its reputation?”</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">He pauses for a moment, reaches into the vines, and then from across the old stone wall, he hands me a cluster of the most exalted fruit in the world.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">“Here young man," he says, "now you can say
that you have tried Romanée-Conti in its purest form.” </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We laugh and I thank
him for his time. </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">“Bon voyage!” he
shouts as he makes his way back into the vineyard.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6bE9lMkwjs8/UI0UooaC1qI/AAAAAAAACL0/FTk4j_POIaQ/s1600/Grapes+at+Romanee-Conti+Tyler+Philp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6bE9lMkwjs8/UI0UooaC1qI/AAAAAAAACL0/FTk4j_POIaQ/s320/Grapes+at+Romanee-Conti+Tyler+Philp.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The vines here are the source of both great wealth and prosperity. It is widely recognized that the village Vosne-Romanée
would not exist without them; but then I suppose that conclusion could be drawn
about many of these tiny communes along the Côte d'Or. This fact seems rather obvious though as I
walk through the narrow walled streets here in Vosne. Each building is
marked with a plaque stating the name of the domaine within. Everything here is related to wine and as with
the vineyards that surround, its building are somewhat understated as well. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Heading south from Vosne-Romanée, the great la Tache walks along beside me for
a few acres. I know people who claim to have held back tears at the
sight of these legendary vines. It is certainly something to see in person and I can’t help but smile knowing where
I have been this morning.</span></div>
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The terrain as you leave Vosne-Romanée rises gently to a point where the old
church steeples in Nuits-Saint-Georges become visible in the distance. There are a surprising and somewhat bizarre number
of snails scattered across the roadway as I walk. In the 20 plus kilometres
that I have covered so far, I have not seen a single snail (not that I was
looking for them either), yet suddenly there are hundreds. The soil structure and composition is
changing and the minerals that feed the vines also attract other members of nature’s
small miracle here in <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state>.
If the wine of Vosne-Romanée is delicate and complex, Nuits-Saint-Georges
is known for it power and structure. The soil in <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state> combined with the exposure of the
land determines the style of these wines.<br />
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Across the country, winemakers in </span><st1:city w:st="on">Bordeaux</st1:city><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
blend multiple grape varieties from various plots to compensate for varying
vintage conditions. But here in </span><st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">,
while they are legally allowed to blend with up to 15 percent of other
varieties, blending is generally not practiced and therefore red </span><st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> is truly a solo performance by the Pinot
Noir. The purity of </span><st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">,
both red and white, and its relative transparency is what has captured the
attention of enthusiasts for years. You may doubt its greatness as you stand in
the wine shop staring at the shelves and elevated price tags, but walk amongst
the vines and you begin to understand how such a relatively small place can
have such a profound impact on the wine drinking population.</span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VhXcbsPYP9w/UI0S8bepfXI/AAAAAAAACLk/CMnkAHmvAvU/s1600/pink+apartment.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="175" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VhXcbsPYP9w/UI0S8bepfXI/AAAAAAAACLk/CMnkAHmvAvU/s320/pink+apartment.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I wonder if the person who owns the modern pink low-rise apartment building on
the north side of Nuits-Saint-George is aware that his or her gaudy paint scheme
is the first thing that people like me see after they brush with greatness and
history in the valley before. The sight leaves a sour taste in my mouth, as do
the grapes as I stop to taste. Far too
much fruit still clings to the vines here. Have they not harvested yet?
I can't imagine. Perhaps they accidentally missed a few rows. I've
looked at least a million vines by this point and I will dare to say that the
vineyards as I approach Nuits-Saint-George are not as well kept.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">While the pink apartment complex continues to stare at me, I
hear the sound of children playing in the community ahead. My hotel is another 2km further up the road,
tucked into the trees of the Côte d’Or.
As I make the first turn into French suburbia, mud from my shoes leaves
a trail of terroir on the clean sidewalk behind as I pass by one new home
after the next. In a matter of footsteps everything has suddenly changed
and I literally laugh out loud at the thought of it all… I've seen far too
much today; it's time for a hot shower and a good meal. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s8BmZ1g4ox8/UI0XkTpCqcI/AAAAAAAACMQ/bkhGDZSTJ6I/s1600/Salade+in+Nuits+Tyler+Philp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="238" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s8BmZ1g4ox8/UI0XkTpCqcI/AAAAAAAACMQ/bkhGDZSTJ6I/s320/Salade+in+Nuits+Tyler+Philp.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">mixed greens salad</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yq5C-yUXUOA/UI0Xvf5GlrI/AAAAAAAACMY/QLmd16Iz1EU/s1600/duck+in+Nuits+Tyler+Philp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yq5C-yUXUOA/UI0Xvf5GlrI/AAAAAAAACMY/QLmd16Iz1EU/s320/duck+in+Nuits+Tyler+Philp.JPG" width="238" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">seared duck breast confit</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SUoz7wIP6ds/UI0YEpYC6CI/AAAAAAAACMg/lu3LHKRIHJY/s1600/dessert+in+Nuits+Tyler+Philp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SUoz7wIP6ds/UI0YEpYC6CI/AAAAAAAACMg/lu3LHKRIHJY/s320/dessert+in+Nuits+Tyler+Philp.JPG" width="236" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">black chocolate of Venezuela - OMG!</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I have only one more day to complete this incredible journey. In my <a href="http://northof9finewine.blogspot.ca/2012/11/burgundy-exploring-cote-dor-part-five.html">next and final post</a>, I catch the train to the bottom of the Cote d'Or and work my way back up to beautiful Meursault and then to on Beaune where this adventure comes to an end. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Cheers and thank you kindly for following along. </span></div><br />
<a href="http://northof9finewine.blogspot.ca/2012/11/burgundy-exploring-cote-dor-part-five.html">~> Read Burgundy Part Five</a>
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Tyler Philphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09435914240300765715noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3337661775401884909.post-26427818615646147782012-10-14T21:35:00.000-04:002012-11-16T19:56:33.933-05:00Burgundy – exploring the Côte d’Or, the final chapter
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Link to the previous posts: <i><a href="http://northof9finewine.blogspot.ca/2012/10/burgundy-exploring-cote-dor-part-1.html">Part 1</a>, <a href="http://northof9finewine.blogspot.ca/2012/10/burgundy-exploring-cote-dor-part-two.html">Part 2</a>, <a href="http://northof9finewine.blogspot.ca/2012/10/burgundy-exploring-cote-dor-part-three.html">Part 3</a> </i>and<i> <a href="http://northof9finewine.blogspot.ca/2012/10/burgundy-exploring-cote-dor-part-four.html">Part 4</a></i></span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jURMBNjsYHA/UJUnFe8WyeI/AAAAAAAACSQ/ktFr8JgsQUc/s1600/Chagny+Tyler+Philp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jURMBNjsYHA/UJUnFe8WyeI/AAAAAAAACSQ/ktFr8JgsQUc/s320/Chagny+Tyler+Philp.JPG" width="222" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A change in my schedule requires a modified plan. Rather
than continue the hike southbound, I will take the train to Chagny (near
Chassagne-Montrachet) and work my way back north on foot from there to Beaune
before catching the train to </span><st1:city style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" w:st="on">Paris</st1:city><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The rest in Nuits-Saint-Georges felt good and I spend the morning enjoying the
architecture and history of this town while poking through many of the shops
and boutiques.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2O0NWakWX4I/UJQYstla6xI/AAAAAAAACNI/gwW0GcWVPLU/s1600/Historic+Nuits+Saint+Georges+Tyler+Philp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="261" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2O0NWakWX4I/UJQYstla6xI/AAAAAAAACNI/gwW0GcWVPLU/s320/Historic+Nuits+Saint+Georges+Tyler+Philp.JPG" width="320" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">South of Nuits-Saint-Georges, the axis of the escarpment takes on a more
southwesterly heading. The change of course combined with variations in
the soil's composition make growing Chardonnay alongside the Pinot Noir a
highly successful option. The further south you travel along the Côte
d'Or, the more pronounced the limestone component of the soil becomes until
eventually the Chardonnay becomes King. To the north in the Côte de
Nuits, the limestone combines with a higher percentage of marl that caters to
the success of Pinot Noir.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Chassagne-Montrachet via Chagny by train is just a short ride. I bought
two poster-sized maps in Nuits-Saint-Georges for my cellar which also come in
handy on the train ride. The maps detail every vineyard in the Côte d'Or
wine region and traveling south I have a clear view of the mighty hill at
Aloxe-Corton and its surrounding Pinot and Chardonnay plots. This
aggressive change in the landscape is the most pronounced feature along the Côte
d'Or and I curiously watch as the trees perform a delicate balancing act at the edge of the hill. The red and white wine made here are both highly sought after for
their structure and complexity but it is the grand cru Corton-Charlemagne that
gets the true Chardonnay enthusiast's heart beating. I have a bottle of
'05 in the cellar at home and as I marvel at the size of this landmass, I am
also working out a dinner menu to pair with the great white.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The town of <st1:city w:st="on">Chagny</st1:city>
is well outside the boundary of the vines that follow the Côte d’Or. Rather
than walk through town, across the highway, and up the hill, I’d prefer to hire
a taxi for a ride over to Chassagne-Montrachet. And so at the taxi stand outside the train
station I wait... and wait... and wait some more. There is no phone to
call, no cab in sight, and no one to ask; it looks like I'm walking after all. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fortunately
a small pastry shop is open on a side street in town, and through a combination of broken language, hand
signals, and a picture or two, the lovely lady behind the counter kindly
arranges for a taxi to Chassagne. I purchase two croissants - one with
cheese and the other without - plus a fizzy orange drink of some description. The
total is 2,25 Euros but I give her 10 for her trouble as her face lights
up with a big smile. That makes my day, though I hope she realizes that not every
Canadian tips like that. This one just needs to get the show on the road... </span></div>
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The taxi drops me at the boundary between Santenay and Chassagne-Montrachet
where I am surrounded by the vines once again. Standing in the vineyard
of la Comme, I try to envision what lies beyond the hills at the southern limit
of the Côte d’Or. Santenay la Comme is
a light-bodied Pinot that hints at the complexity of the wine to the north
while reflecting its own individuality. I buy it by the case whenever it becomes
available at home. In the commune of
Chassagne, I see the premier cru plots of les Chaumes, Caillerets, and la
Romanée. So many of these vineyards have
filled my glass at dinner in recent years and I have enjoyed every one. The
wines of Burgundy are relatively expensive by comparison, but then I believe in the concept
of drinking better wine, not necessarily great amounts of it.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HDyw-FUd3SQ/UJQclICbVaI/AAAAAAAACNw/mGV98d1UBrs/s1600/architecture+in+Chassagne+Tyler+Philp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="218" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HDyw-FUd3SQ/UJQclICbVaI/AAAAAAAACNw/mGV98d1UBrs/s320/architecture+in+Chassagne+Tyler+Philp.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Chassagne-Montrachet has a similar layout and appearance to the
villages further north in the Côte de Nuits. And though each commune does a great job of hiding it, I can't help but notice that hidden behind the </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">historical facade and/or</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> rustic exterior walls is a network of modern technology and winemaking equipment. I really can't say that I am surprised; even the great Burgundy must keep up with the latest trends. Perhaps the old structures also serve as a constant reminder to maintain an equalibrium between technology and tradition. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On the hill to the north of Chassagne the leaves reflect the midday
sun. It is the first clear sky of my trip and the uninterrupted light
brightens the stonework and old buildings as I pass from the village into the
vineyards beyond.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Pinot Noir vines to the north in the Côte de Nuits are rustic, historic,
and unassuming; they looked as though they did 200 years ago, I'm sure. By comparison, I find the vineyards here in the
Côte de Beaune strikingly organized. The
Chardonnay vines on the hills to the north Chassagne are flawlessly kept.
The scene reminds me of a picturesque park. I walk slowly up the gentle incline on the
outskirts of the village; I am in no hurry now. Every aspect of this particular place exudes a greater degree of perfection with each glance when suddenly a sign catches me off guard 'LE MONTRACHET'. Wow! I
knew that I was close but this is it! No wonder the
surroundings look flawless, this is <i>the place!</i> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If Romanée-Conti is the King of Burgundy, then le Montrachet is its white knight -
fantastic to see in person, and the best part is that there was no one else
here. This minute point on the face of the Earth is completely meaningless
to 99.9% of the population. Yet to me, it represents so much that is good. I came looking for the soul of <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state>
and even questioned its existence. I'm
not sure if my epiphany was the sign of the great vineyard itself, the memory of tasting this wine, or the first blue sky I’d seen in <st1:place w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:place> reflecting off the stark white stone. Perhaps it was a
combination of all these factors, but as I pondered an array of thoughts standing on that hillside, an hour passed in what felt
like a matter of minutes. </span></div>
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Le Montrachet and I have met before on two separate occasions, but never in
person - once long ago and again more recently. The first time, I was
dazzled but unaware of the significance; that was in '97 at a celebratory
dinner for a friend. The second opportunity was at an auction in 2008; I
believe the wine acted as a stimulus causing those in attendance to spend more
money in return.</div>
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Stepping into the great vineyard, I close the iron gate behind. Am I
allowed to be in here? I'm not sure, yet as I walk up one of the rows,
the level of respect could not be any higher. Unlike the Pinot Noir
vineyards, there is very little Chardonnay left on the vines. I can't
help but wonder if they have made a second pass through. I'd like to
taste the fruit but I can’t find any to tempt me. In the next row the vines are equally bare and
the one after that is the same. I start to make my way back to the gate
when a healthy cluster appears tucked just under the leaves. Can I?
No, I shouldn't. But the birds will get them if I don't. I
might, I must - and I do...</div>
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My constant purpose in wine is to speak about the atmosphere in which you enjoy
your best bottles. I call it 'setting up the moment'. The synergy
of the meal, the wine, and the company intermingle to create a lasting memory.
The concept of vinous perfection hit me like a freight train on December
16th 1996 in <st1:city w:st="on">Atlantic City</st1:city>, then again on
January 28th 2010 over a 40year old bottle from <st1:country-region w:st="on">Spain</st1:country-region>,
and now again here in <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state>
at le Montrachet... and this time the fruit isn't even fermented!</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nm8IOqFQp9Y/UJQiDJjSB1I/AAAAAAAACOQ/_VW-4xmp6js/s1600/Batard+Montrachet+Tyler+Philp.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nm8IOqFQp9Y/UJQiDJjSB1I/AAAAAAAACOQ/_VW-4xmp6js/s200/Batard+Montrachet+Tyler+Philp.JPG" width="148" /></a></div>
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The great Montrachet is flanked above and below by other spectacular vineyards
of note: Bâtard le Montrachet which is slightly lower on the hill and the great
Chevalier-Montrachet which overlooks both from its walled clos and stone
archway above. The first two are shared between the villages of Chassagne
to the south and the next village and AOC Puligny-Montrachet to the north while
Chevalier exists entirely in the commune of Puligny. I walk to the top of
the next hill that separates the grand cru vines from the premier and commune
plots beyond.</div>
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One of the more impressive aspects of this region is the close proximity of one
village to the next. Puligny-Montrachet is literally just beyond the next hill. The style of the wine does not change drastically from one commune to the next
but rather it follows a gradual transition, and this is the case all along the
Côte d'Or. Furthermore, anyone who tells you that they can taste the
difference from one row of vines to the next (because these people do exist)
has a vivid imagination.</div>
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Beyond the crest of the hill, the vines above Puligny-Montrachet point directly
east and therefore forfeit a few precious hours of sun that the grand cru vineyards
take full advantage of during the growing season. In a region where
reputation is everything, the classification of the vines unfortunately must
pay the price in this situation.</div>
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The path takes me along the hillside above Puligny-Montrachet where the view of
the surrounding vineyards demonstrates the incredible power of <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state> and its ability
to draw thousands of volunteers to the region each year. They come here
to become one with the land, if only for a day, to assist with the harvest, and
to say that they have touched the vines and participated in the winemaking
process. The Chardonnay made in Puligny-Montrachet is generally regarded
as the superior of the two villages, though having enjoyed both on many
occasions; I have mixed feelings about that generalization and appreciate both
for their subtle differences.</div>
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I continue toward Meursault under a sunny sky.</div>
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Both red and white wine is made throughout the Côte de Beaune and interestingly,
all but one of the grand cru whites are located south of Nuits-Saint-Georges.
Only le Musigny, near Vougeot in the north can boast a coveted white grand
cru. The opposite can be said of the
grand cru red of <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state>
and with the exception of Corton in the south, all the best red vineyards are found
well to the north in the Côte de Nuits.</div>
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The path I am following is well travelled by cyclists and the occasional car,
though I'm not sure the cars are really supposed to be on this particular pathway.
Either way, a 50-metre stretch of the road ahead is flooded and I must walk
along the top of the wall to find my way to the dry ground on the other
side. I leave a couple and their Citroen
behind. It's a puny little car, though I'm really not sure how he'll manage to turn it around without getting stuck up to the axles - that'll teach him to drive on the walking trails.</div>
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The span of vines here in the Côte de Beaune has a greater width than further
to the north. You can sense the magnitude of these vineyards and the
amount of work involved with harvesting these plots before the hail and frost
claim the fruit. That is the danger here in <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state>. What is more incredible is that
short of a few clothing articles left behind during the harvest near Chambertin
and the ongoing fan club at Romanée-Conti, I have not seen any amount of litter
or vandalism whatsoever. Graffiti runs ramped in <st1:city w:st="on">Paris</st1:city>,
but here in <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state>,
the land and architecture are truly proud elements of French heritage. I can
say with confidence that these vines mean the world to the good people who tend
to this land.<br />
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Reaching the next crest in the landscape, I pause for a moment to gaze upon the
<st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placetype w:st="on">village</st1:placetype> of <st1:placename w:st="on">Meursault</st1:placename></st1:place>. I am still a few
kilometres away but the cathedral stands proudly above the homes that surround
the ancient church. The leaves in the premier cru Les Genevrieres have
turned a golden yellow as they cling to the vines for a few more days. Autumn is finally here and workers are now
busy inside the villages crushing and fermenting the fruit that once decorated
these great vines. </div>
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The Chardonnay from Meursault is famous to wine connoisseurs throughout the
world. Typically the most oak influenced Chardonnay in the region, the
wines of Meursault remain a world away from the buttery wines of <st1:state w:st="on">California</st1:state>. Less
famous but equally good is the Pinot Noir from Meursault and I'll enjoy a glass
of white and a half bottle of red from Domain Pierre Matrot with dinner tonight.</div>
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The obvious question that many people ask is 'can you really taste the
difference between <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state>
and wine made from the same grapes elsewhere in the world?' The short
answer is a firm yes, but it is far more complicated than that.</div>
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To a
degree, it is the complexity of the explanation that makes <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state> intriguing. It has taken me
almost 12,000 words over five separate posts to convey the perplexity of this
land and yet I feel as though I have only given you the tip of the iceberg.
The magic and uniqueness of <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state>
lies within the region's vast history and the story that unfolds when you
attempt to explain it. Of the greatest importance must be the vintage
conditions in any given year. Certainly more so here than anywhere
the climate is consistent or they modify the composition of the wine by
blending varieties to compensate for lesser conditions. The land speaks
to you in <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state>;
the best plots were chosen a thousand years ago and have produced the greatest
wine for centuries. And while ownership may transfer, rarely does the
classification of the land ever change. You cannot make great wine with
inferior fruit - that is a fact. Modern equipment and techniques allow
for mass production and the option of manipulation to appease the masses but it
will never be a substitute for terrior and a sense of place.</div>
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I came to <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state>
in search of an explanation. I found it by walking with the vines, not
driving past or flying over them, but standing motionless in the wind and
studying the contours of the land. I watched as clouds formed over the hills
and I have held the soil in my hands. I tasted the fruit from nearly
every vineyard that I walked past and found similarities and contrasts in both texture
and taste of the fruit and wines. Terroir is the ability of the vines to
absorb and express the natural environment and microclimate of each vineyard
through its fruit and resultant wines. I derive my pleasure from the
purity of these wines and yes, there are many other places in the world that
have mastered this art as well, but like the impressionist works of Monet and
Picasso, you can appreciate both, but only one will truly speak to your
imagination.</div>
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As I reach the <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placetype w:st="on">village</st1:placetype>
of <st1:placename w:st="on">Meursault</st1:placename></st1:place>, I've now
walked approximately 35km. This is where my foot-tour of <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state> will end.
I have found what I was looking for and due to a sudden change in the
unpredictable world of airline travel, I must leave <st1:country-region w:st="on">France</st1:country-region> tomorrow or stay for another
4 days. In truth, I could explore this land for another month and not see
the same thing twice, but there are little people at home who do not fully
understand where I have gone or why I am away - it is time to go home.</div>
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As I enter the picturesque centre square at the centre of Meursault, I find it
alive with couples who are wandering in and out of the shops as they wait for
restaurants to open. There is a wedding here today at the cathedral and
the sun is setting just beyond the hills to the west. It is beautiful
here. I did have a room booked in Meursault, but to catch the early
morning train back to the airport tomorrow, I will need to stay in Beaune
tonight instead.</div>
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I manage to stretch the ten minute cab ride to Beaune into an hour-long
adventure by asking the driver who speaks perfect English (I've forgotten her name) to take me through the village of Volnay and then Pommard. We stop at several significant
vineyards and landmarks along the way and she shares her thoughts with me on
the perception of wine in the French culture. Of course I sample the
grapes each time we stop. "Don't they all taste the same?" she
asks. “I think they're beginning to." I laugh. As we chat,
I learn that everyone here knows someone who works with the vines, and yet very few people actually take the time to recognize the impact of
this region on a greater scale. I am convinced that my passion for Burgundy will somehow benefit others, even if only to provide them with an escape from reality for a few moments as they sip. </div>
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As we round the next corner a gas station and its neon signs
cast a reflection of the real world as Beaune quickly approaches. Suddenly the vines cease to exist. I
close my eyes for the rest of the ride... </div>
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<!--[if !supportLineBreakNewLine]--><br />
<!--[endif]--><br />Tyler Philphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09435914240300765715noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3337661775401884909.post-77783817955240451402012-10-01T20:44:00.000-04:002012-12-19T12:40:10.084-05:00Decanting by candlelight <div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><st1:city w:st="on"><br /></st1:city></span>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><st1:city w:st="on">Tyler</st1:city>
demonstrates how to decant a bottle of wine containing sediment without the
use of a filter. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">With time, the colour and tannin structure of a fine wine will begin to precipitate out of the solution in the form a powder-like sediment that collects in the bottle. This sediment becomes increasingly more pronounced and finer-grained with each year of additional age. Standard wine funnels and filter-screen </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">combinations will prevent most forms of sedimentation from passing through to the decanter or glass, but finer grains, in some cases may cloud the wine if poured through these filters. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Other examples of sedimentation are tartaric crystals (<i><a href="http://northof9finewine.blogspot.ca/2011/01/corked-wine-or-flawed-perception.html">Wine Diamonds</a></i>) and wine which has undergone minimal filtration prior to bottling. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The formal method of decanting shown in this video will prevent any sediment from escaping from the bottle - plus, it's a great parlor trick when performed in the right crowd! </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>Note</i> that not all wine styles require decanting. </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">For additional information related to decanting wine, see </span><i style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://northof9finewine.blogspot.ca/2011/07/decanting-wine.html">Decanting 101</a></i><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><br />
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Tyler Philphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09435914240300765715noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3337661775401884909.post-66254426478639589722012-09-24T09:57:00.001-04:002012-11-16T19:53:32.294-05:00Autumn's Splendor and Thanksgiving Food/Wine Pairings
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Autumn is arguably the most beautiful season of the year, a time when the cool afternoon breeze is a welcome change after the
sweltering heat of July and August. In the distance, the rustle of
vibrant-coloured leaves creates an ever-changing canvas which has an almost
surreal effect on my wife Jacquie and I. For a moment, I though time
might be standing still as we sat watching our children rake
leaves into an enormous pile only to cannonball into the middle and resurface
grinning from ear-to-ear. It’s beautiful here and the change of season always
reminds us of yet another opportunity to gather with friends and family.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Depending on which side of the Canada/U.S. border you live on, the Thanksgiving holiday represents a slightly different meaning. Americans celebrate on the fourth Thursday of November in remembrance of the Pilgrims. In Canada, the second Monday in October marks the traditional close of the harvest. And while the date and historical significance may differ between our two countries, I think all will agree that Thanksgiving is a time to gather around
the table with family, to enjoy each other’s company, and to share a wonderful meal with a
few good bottles of wine. With that, I'd like to make a few suggestions to
enhance your enjoyment of the occasion.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The customary Thanksgiving dishes are turkey, ham
or both, and that opens a wealth of opportunity for pairing wine with the
meal. But let’s uncork and pour much earlier in the day shall we –
perhaps just after your guests arrive – a glass of <st1:state w:st="on">Champagne</st1:state> anyone? </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In our house,
things get quite busy and Jac likes complete control of the kitchen; a place
that sadly, I am not welcome on Thanksgiving, Christmas, Easter, or any other
holiday for that matter… Rather, if weather conditions permit, we head
outside for a stroll through the gardens where sparkling wine and the crisp
autumn air is a match made in heaven. Unfortunately though, many people
still reserve Champagne for New Year’s Eve festivities and deny
themselves of its pleasures otherwise. Thanksgiving is the perfect opportunity to
pop a cork and raise a glass of bubbly.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In terms of food and wine pairing at the dinner table, I think we are all
familiar with the cliché: red with beef and white with fish and poultry
but it’s only a guideline, at best. Instead, consider matching the wine
with the intensity of the meal. While the turkey itself is quite mild,
Thanksgiving dinner is a smorgasbord of flavour intensities: stuffing, gravy,
and the many side dishes can be quite rich by comparison. Consider a wine
to match these intense flavours such as <st1:city w:st="on">Shiraz</st1:city>,
Riesling, or new world Chardonnay. On the softer side, choose a Pinot
Noir or lightly oaked Chardonnay from <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state>.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">With the ham, again consider the overall preparation:
is the meat glazed with sweet flavours such as brown sugar, honey, or apricots,
or will it have a tangy zest such as <st1:city w:st="on">Dijon</st1:city>
mustard? The wine should compliment this element of the dish. Sweet
flavours call for an off-dry Riesling or light-bodied Gamay, whereas the
mustard glaze combined with the saltiness of the meat works nicely with
Ripasso, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Noir.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If serving a salad, rather than vinaigrette, which will clash
with every wine, consider creating a dressing using the wine itself as a base. The two textures will compliment each other beautifully.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">And what is a feast without dessert? If you do elect
to serve a dessert wine, do so prior to tea and coffee and remember that it
must be at least as sweet as the dish. Consider something fortified such as
Maderia, Sherry, or 20-year <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Tawny</st1:placename>
<st1:placetype w:st="on">Port.</st1:placetype></st1:place> You could
also keep it seasonal and enjoy a well-chilled bottle of cranberry/maple syrup
wine; a combination like no other!</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5KXY1HNcreM/UGBjMce71gI/AAAAAAAAB5I/EutMfDRO6c0/s1600/Jack-O-Doo_blg.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5KXY1HNcreM/UGBjMce71gI/AAAAAAAAB5I/EutMfDRO6c0/s320/Jack-O-Doo_blg.JPG" width="231" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A final word on the subject of temperature: No single factor
is more important to the overall enjoyment of your wine than its
temperature. With the oven and stove running all day, the kitchen may be
the warmest room in the house. Consider storing your bottles elsewhere
and never rapidly chill your wine in the freezer. Instead, a bucket of ice
water will cool these bottles quickly and evenly. Serve sparkling wine
well chilled at approximately 6ºC and red wine at between 16 and 18ºC.
Keep your whites chilled at around 10-12ºC. Fortified wine is
traditionally served on the cool side though personally, I prefer mine at room
temperature.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">With autumn and all its splendour rapidly approaching, I
hope that you do take the time to enjoy the season with family and
friends. If you decide to serve a few nice bottles, please take an extra
moment or two and set the tone for a perfect day.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>Tyler Philphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09435914240300765715noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3337661775401884909.post-61627440232359874842012-09-18T17:02:00.001-04:002013-01-10T22:55:24.449-05:00Penfolds Single Bottle Dinner with winemaker Peter Gago<br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">You may recall the tale of my first taste of Penfolds Grange
[read <a href="http://northof9finewine.blogspot.ca/2011/01/i-can-see-my-house-from-up-here.html" target="_blank"><i>'I can see my house from here!</i>'</a>].
The 1995 Grange will forever hold a place on my top10 list of memorable wine
moments. Yet in my continuous quest for
vinous fascination, I strive to surpass each of these occasions with the next
opportunity. Though I’ll level with you,
the ante is awfully high and the expectation even more so. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Enter opportunity
extraordinaire…</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I was immersed in four lanes of traffic when an email from
<a href="http://winealign.com/" target="_blank">WineAlign</a> advertising a <i>Penfolds Single
Bottle Dinner</i> flashed across my iPhone screen. You’d be amazed (or appalled) at how fast I was able to traverse the other three lanes and stop on the shoulder to read said message. Some things just cannot wait! I am also well aware of the time frame in which
these events sell out.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">‘<i>Join WineAlign and legendary winemaker Peter Gago on Sept
17<sup>th</sup>‘ the message said, ‘for an exclusive opportunity to share a
bottle from your collection together with the wine that your fellow collectors
bring. The wines will be served during
the course of the evening with a specially prepared meal.</i>’ </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I've watched video footage of the same event held in other cities, but to now have the famous winemaker here in Toronto </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">–</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> sign
me up!</span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HCn1Htff0lY/UFjSve6pdlI/AAAAAAAAB0A/xii67jMY7hY/s1600/Tyler+Philp+Penfold+dinner.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HCn1Htff0lY/UFjSve6pdlI/AAAAAAAAB0A/xii67jMY7hY/s320/Tyler+Philp+Penfold+dinner.png" width="203" /></a><span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Penfolds dinner was held at the <i><a href="http://houseofmoments.com/" target="_blank">House of Moments</a></i> in <st1:city w:st="on">Toronto</st1:city>,
a Asian themed restaurant/lounge/art gallery.
I’ll admit to a certain degree of concern over the thought of pairing luxury wine with 'eastern fusion cuisine', but the chef, I understand,
modified the menu to reflect a more mainstream and wine friendly style of food
than the establishment normally boasts. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I won’t drown you with multiple tasting notes attempting to differentiate the minute degree of greatness that might separate one wine from
the next over the course of this evening.
That, in my opinion will only detract from the imagination needed to
comprehend the magnitude of this event. Instead,
I’ll simply outline a few of the more captivating labels to fill my cup. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">You’ll need to imagine six tables, each with seating for 10 guests in a dimly lit room filled with traditional Asian artifacts and
colourful paintings on the surrounding walls. Modern lighting accents the Asian décor in what was once an old factory
of some description. Admittance to the event involves handing over
your prized bottle - in my case a 1998 Grange. That bottle along with the
other donations are labelled with the guest’s name and designated table. You will rendezvous with your wine alongside that of
the others seated at your table once the dinner begins. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On
arrival, Jacquie and I meet Peter Gago on the street as we
both park our vehicles. Peter is to
Penfolds as Phil Collins is to Genesis; he may not be the original front man,
but his individuality, obvious passion and quest for perfection have taken this
subject to the next level – the highest possible. Peter is animated, courteous, and seemingly down
to earth; he is also a beehive of activity who manages to co-ordinate his team and
wines back home in <st1:country -region="-region" w:st="on">Australia</st1:country>
while jet setting around the world to host dinners and re-corking sessions for
what is undoubtedly the greatest expression of <st1:city w:st="on">Shiraz</st1:city> on the planet. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Outside the restaurant, Peter introduces himself and kindly compliments the bottle we have in tow. He highlights that each bottle will be double decanted (poured
out, bottle rinsed, and re-poured back into the original flask before serving). I am relieved -- and to think that in my cellar the night
before I silently questioned the degree of care the staff would take when presenting these wines…
I kept that thought to myself. Who
better to serve my Grange than the man who nurtured these grapes to perfection?
I was humbled. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Dinner began with a lobster appetizer paired with the 2009
Yattarna Chardonnay, a wine that in terms of popularity and recognition here in
<st1:state w:st="on">Ontario</st1:state> slides
just under the radar. This is Penfolds
top white label and they proudly place it alongside Grange as the second of
their two ‘Iconic wines’. The lobster
and the delicate balance between oak and citrus freshness of the Yatterna could not have tasted any better together. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As we enjoyed our first course, the now ready to drink donated
bottles were placed on our table. We
marvelled at the selection amongst our group alone: 1982 and 1998 Grange, ’94 and ’98 Bin 707,
plus an ’03 RWT. If that was not overwhelming
enough, just as our lamb entrées arrived, a glass of ’72 Grange was placed
before me by a friend seated at the adjacent table. During Peter’s introduction, WineAlign’s
own David Lawrason highlighted that one of the tables had a 50 year-old
bottle for sample. I somehow scored a
sample of that one too - somebody pinch me!
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In terms of my ability to recall and prioritize aroma and
taste sensations relating to the tidal wave of fine wine to stain my palate this
evening, it was the ’72 Grange that would impart the greatest wow factor. The colour of this wine falls appropriately into the brick hue spectrum that one would expect for the age; aromas of cedar and leather abound, but there is still a great deal of fruit and spice character that were obviously so prevalent in its youth. I would have guessed this wine to be much younger than it is. With age, a sourness eventually develops in the taste profile, but the 1972 Grange displayed no indication of that inevitable downward trend and once again, I am marvelled that a 40-year
bottle of wine can still project this degree of character and finesse. Two years ago I opened a bottle of 1970
Chateau Latour for a special occasion. That bottle while unquestionably fine could
not hold a candle to the ’72 Grange this evening – simply stunning. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A bottle of 1994 Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon dazzled our
group with a somewhat surprising degree of restraint and perhaps a slightly more elegant personality
than its powerfully spice driven <st1:city w:st="on">Shiraz</st1:city>
cousin. I expected something much more aggressive but was pleasantly surprised but the velvety smooth texture and underlying dark fruit structure. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As for my 1998 Grange, it is a massive wine, still youthful
and full of Aussie vigour. The ‘98 is
certainly enjoyable now with proper decanting, but this wine will also continue
to improve for at least another decade in the bottle gaining both complexity
and character with time. The other bottles
of ’98 in our cellar will be dressed to impress a few years down the road. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If I am to make only one constructive observation of this
otherwise flawlessly organized event, it would be via the following
analogy: Each February, <st1:city w:st="on">Toronto</st1:city> hosts the Canadian International Autoshow </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> where automotive
companies present their latest creations to enthusiastic buyers and would-be
exotic car hopefuls. After spending the
entire afternoon wandering around the floor of the venue, I find myself passing by the Lamborghini display for the eighth time and without so much as a second glance. I have to wonder, is the presentation too much of a good thing? Luxury car overload perhaps or possibly Grange saturation? </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I’d like to thank Penfolds and <a href="http://winealign.com/" target="_blank">WineAlign</a> for organizing
and assembling this truly breathtaking wine tasting event. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">-------</span><br />
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<span style="color: lime; font-family: Arial;">~></span><span style="font-family: Arial;"> Dan Trcka from WineAlign was also in attendance at this
luxurious Penfolds dinner. Do take a moment to read his thoughts on the evening
at<span class="apple-converted-space"> </span></span><a href="http://grapeselections.com/penfolds-tasting/"><span style="font-family: Arial;">GrapeSelections.com</span></a></div>
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Tyler Philphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09435914240300765715noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3337661775401884909.post-1938362239704021282012-08-14T21:23:00.000-04:002012-09-04T09:57:07.156-04:00Body, Texture, and Finish<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Just the other day, a gentleman on the Discovery Channel was
discussing the concept of body, texture, and finish. He spoke with unparalleled passion for his
craft and stressed the finer nuances of detail that make both first impressions
and leave lasting memories with every one of his customers. He also happened to be the paint shop manager
at Ferrari. Aside from the sudden urge
to own an exotic car (my wife would never speak to me again), I couldn’t help
but draw a parallel to my passion for fine wine. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Emile Peynaud,
the forefather of modern oenology once said, <i>“There can
be no vocabulary of tasting unless wines have complex qualities worthy of
comment.”</i> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">To uphold a certain degree of perspective (via an unknown author) <i>"The drink serves
little more than to quench one’s thirst or as a mechanism to wash down a
swallow of food."</i> <br /><br />The vast majority of
people drink what they like, when they like it, and put little thought into the
process outside of those parameters. Ice-cold water is always popular - and certainly failsafe,
soft drinks are still too common, while unsweetened iced-tea might be a newfound preference;
the options are endless. For those interested however, there is a more productive angle to consider. Meal
enhancement is how I view the subject. Of course the health
conscious and dietary types might advocate that fluids are best consumed after the
meal and not during. The thought of actually enjoying a glass of wine with the meal appears to be an afterthought here in <st1:place w:st="on">North America</st1:place>. I also fear that we read between the lines about intimidation via the need for ‘proper pairings’ with
options to either combine or contrast flavour intensities – at times perhaps an
amalgamation of both. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There are certainly a few no-no’s in terms of food and wine combinations
(read <a href="http://northof9finewine.blogspot.ca/2012/04/food-and-wine-pairing-tips-tricks.html" target="_blank">Pairing Tips and Tricks</a> for a detailed summary), but in general a few
basic guidelines will allow for an enhanced dining experience. Thinking beyond the obvious descriptors such
as colour and fruit, three additional factors to consider when faced with
selecting ‘the right’ bottle are its body, texture, and finish. The trio will always play second fiddle to
more familiar terminology relating to aroma and taste. They also tend to be less obvious in the
flurry of adjectives that adorn the back label of the bottle. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mPY2AP2mOXs/UCrzbgcoz6I/AAAAAAAABnw/jRBopGcUgtI/s1600/wine_tears+Tyler+Philp.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mPY2AP2mOXs/UCrzbgcoz6I/AAAAAAAABnw/jRBopGcUgtI/s320/wine_tears+Tyler+Philp.jpg" width="299" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Assuming that you are not the person pouring the wine, body
is first noticed in the tears that stream down the sides of the glass. The
tears (or legs) reflect the percent alcohol by volume and relative sweetness of a given
wine. A higher degree of alcohol will produce heavier tears that flow quite slowly. These wines also have a greater perceived mouth-feel or body, which until
recently was the winning recipe and ‘new-world’ winemaking push. Of course, there is a place for everything
and it is critically important to note that a full-bodied wine, while tantalizing to
taste, is almost certain to overpower lighter-fare foods. It is better to reserve these big wines to
serve alongside equally rich and high protein dishes. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The impression of texture spills over from a wine’s body and
can take on many forms including effervescence (sparkling wine and frizzante
style), viscosity or lack of (fortified and dessert vs. table wine), and tannin
structure. Consider texture when pairing
with food styles: a rich cream-based
dish paired with wines that exhibit the same character i.e. a buttery
Chardonnay is likely to be too much of a good thing. A better option might be to cut through the
weight of the dish with a crisp, clean mineral-based wine; think creamy pasta
with Pinot Grigio or even a flute of sparkling wine. Likewise, the delicacy of Pinot Noir is lost
when we pair it with a dish that is too rich or spicy. In this case, consider a
bolder wine such as those which are Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, or Nebbiolo
based while saving lighter bodied wines like Pinot and Gamay for flavours such
as salmon, pork or duck. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The overall quality of a given wine is indicated not only by
its aroma and taste profile, but also by the length of its finish. Does the wine leave a lasting impression? One that fades immediately is said have
little substance while those that linger on the palate represent a higher
quality product and one with the potential to improve with age. Look for the word complexity in write-ups and in
critics' reviews. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A wine that creates a lasting pause in the conversation is a
finer example. The longer the pause, the greater the wine - in my opinion.<br /><br /><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Tyler Philphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09435914240300765715noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3337661775401884909.post-21764897595543640882012-07-19T12:09:00.001-04:002012-11-16T19:56:58.995-05:00The Marquee Steakhouse and Piano Lounge
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<br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Just the other day a message flew across my computer screen
asking if I’d like to meet for dinner at a new steakhouse in <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Milton</st1:city>, <st1:state w:st="on">Ontario</st1:state></st1:place>. The invite was from a friend of the restaurant’s
owner/chef and an acquaintance of mine on Twitter. He was in search of an unbiased opinion of
both the food and wine at the recently opened restaurant to which I happily
accepted the invitation.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><st1:city w:st="on">Milton</st1:city> is a rapidly growing
community located just northwest of <st1:city w:st="on">Oakville</st1:city>
at the base of the picturesque Niagara Escarpment. With the exception of the buildings that
typically line the edges of the 401 along this stretch of highway, one could
easily pass by the town and never realized that 85 000 people live just beyond
the spans of mature trees.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9WorQCXupyM/UAgtN4uTMhI/AAAAAAAABhs/fBqoGvG2QCs/s1600/marquee_banner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="71" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9WorQCXupyM/UAgtN4uTMhI/AAAAAAAABhs/fBqoGvG2QCs/s200/marquee_banner.jpg" width="200" /></a><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Marquee Steakhouse and Piano Lounge is a new and welcome
addition to the list of local dining destinations in <st1:place w:st="on">Milton</st1:place>.
I called up the address on Google Maps for a quick visual reference of
the area only to find an out of date picture of a shabby looking Chinese food
establishment which apparently called this location home only a few months
ago. But as I made the turn into the parking
lot of the small strip-plaza, the clutter and uncouth facade of the once otherwise
tactless Asian takeout joint had reassuringly vanished, replaced by an iron-fenced
patio, bistro tables, and variety of well cared for planter boxes. If first impressions truly do leave a lasting
memory, the obvious sense of passion and refined taste that now occupies <st1:street w:st="on">500 Steeles Ave.</st1:street>
was a welcome sight.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After a few quick introductions at the bar and a glass of
iced tea, we sat down to a perfectly chilled flute of Presecco and appetizers
in the form of Brie & Walnut Wellington followed by Spicy Crab Fritters –
both exceptionally good. Owner/Chef
Serdjo Lakich, a graduate of the George Brown Culinary Institute, is the
driving force behind this establishment while his lovely wife Diana (who also coordinates the catering side of the business) gracefully circulates through the tables stopping
briefly to chat. </span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MuR9XbpNpms/UAgtCnKzVVI/AAAAAAAABhk/bkXnOHW5l8Y/s1600/Marquee_decor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="224" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MuR9XbpNpms/UAgtCnKzVVI/AAAAAAAABhk/bkXnOHW5l8Y/s320/Marquee_decor.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The atmosphere of the Marquee is bright and open concept
with a tastefully modern theme that welcomes patrons for both lunch and
dinner. A piano sits in the corner with
a couple of acoustic/electric guitars alongside which I understand welcome some
very talented musicians. Unfortunately,
the only taste of melody for us this evening was a quick but impressive tickle
of the ivories by Chef Serdjo himself. </span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-66YSgnUn2bw/UAguImOf3wI/AAAAAAAABh0/67u0KdG0wjg/s1600/Marquee_entree.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-66YSgnUn2bw/UAguImOf3wI/AAAAAAAABh0/67u0KdG0wjg/s200/Marquee_entree.jpg" width="135" /></a><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Entrée choices explore a wide range of dishes including a
selection of steak, pasta, and fish options.
My choice this evening was the 6oz Grilled Beef Tenderloin with Crispy
Shallots, Port Reduction, and Mashed Potato accompanied by sides of Saut</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">éed Mushrooms and Grilled Shrimp with Lemon & Herb Butter</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">.
I am extremely fussy in terms of taste and presentation, so when I say
that I can find no fault with the food at Marquee, it simply reiterates the
degree of care that goes into the selection of ingredients, preparation, and presentation
of each dish. It was a delicious feast of the
senses in every respect. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If I must express only one concern (and Chef Serdjo and I
discussed this issue in detail after hours), it is with the selection of wine labels available at the Marquee Steakhouse. Respecting
the fact that they have just opened their doors, I suggest with a degree of
understanding that many top steakhouses in the city also boast a collection of
high-end labels to pair with their menus.
My background arguably dictates a somewhat biased opinion on the subject,
but with the standard of quality as high as the Marquee offers, many patrons will
soon expect the wine selection and service to reflect that same degree of perfection. The current wine list is certainly adequate,
but what I gather from my dining experience and discussion with the staff is
that adequacy is not a viable option at this fine establishment. Another consideration is to pursue an extension on
the liquor licence and offer a corkage service so that patrons might bring
along a special bottle of their own. Serving
temperature is also a critical element and therefore, I’d really like to see a
climate controlled wine storage unit of some description to house a selection
of better labels and licensee products. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I highly recommend that you make the short trek west of <st1:place w:st="on">Toronto</st1:place> to the Marquee
Steakhouse and Piano Lounge for a culinary extravaganza of flavour. Call ahead to make a reservation, and while
you have them on the phone, be sure to ask about the featured musician that
week. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Reservations are available at (289) 878-5717</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Website at <a href="http://www.marqueesteakhouse.com/"><span style="color: #3d85c6;">www.marqueesteakhouse.com</span></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Cost of dinner per person: $35-45 + applicable taxes, gratuity and alcohol</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Cheers</span></div>
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<a href="http://www.urbanspoon.com/r/10/1679372/restaurant/Toronto/Marquee-Steakhouse-Piano-Lounge-Milton"><img alt="Marquee Steakhouse & Piano Lounge on Urbanspoon" src="http://www.urbanspoon.com/b/logo/1679372/biglogo.gif" style="border: none; height: 34px; padding: 0px; width: 104px;" /></a>
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<br /></div>Tyler Philphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09435914240300765715noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3337661775401884909.post-54646998138761687582012-07-15T14:16:00.001-04:002012-12-07T21:04:43.535-05:00Wine Paraphernalia<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>- as published in the Winter 2011/12 edition of Footprints magazine.</i></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i><br /></i></span>
<br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Have you taken the time to stroll through the
glassware section of your local department store recently? Located somewhere
amidst the sea of crystal decanters, etched serving trays, and dinnerware
designed by that abrasive guy from Hell’s Kitchen, undoubtedly you will stumble
upon a display of the latest in wine paraphernalia. I thought it might be worthwhile to address a
few of these unusual gizmos and gadgets before you file them into the re-gift cabinet for future reference. I should also commend the courageous few who do manage to manipulate said contraptions with some degree of precision, which
incidentally are somehow designed to make your wine imbibing experience all the
more pleasurable.</span><span style="font-family: 'Maiandra GD'; font-size: 10pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U3eaXDPaRfA/UAdKMLTZcTI/AAAAAAAABfI/vsZGpJQn0fo/s1600/vinturi-wine-aerator.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U3eaXDPaRfA/UAdKMLTZcTI/AAAAAAAABfI/vsZGpJQn0fo/s200/vinturi-wine-aerator.jpg" width="200" /></a><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Just the other day, a friend asked for my opinion on the use
of the Wine Vinturi. For those
unfamiliar, the Vinturi is not only a play on words, but a futuristic looking
funnel designed to rapidly aerate the contents of the bottle. Before I begin, let me also highlight that I unstop
a bottle the traditional way – without exception. In fact, as far as wine service goes, I’d be
better off in a society that existed a hundred years ago. In my opinion, there is an art to opening a bottle correctly and thus I tend to avoid the use of such technological
items of convenience; not that I intend to steer you in any particular direction. But service goes beyond simply popping the
cork and pouring the contents for your guests.
Perhaps you also believe in the magic of the moment? Not card tricks, top hats, and stereotypical hocus-pocus
nonsense, but the transformation from one form to another. Amidst the brief and sporadic moments of sarcasm between these lines, that is exactly where the focus of this article lies.</span>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Vinturi funnel exists for the simple reason that people
wish to expedite the breathing time necessary to enjoy certain bottles of
wine. And that is fine, I guess, but I find
myself asking: why the need to rush the
process? Proper decanting of the bottle
will accomplish exactly the same thing and if you adequately cellar the wine
for a reasonable length of time, significant aeration is not necessary. Furthermore, use of venturi type funnels can
become habitual and in some cases inappropriate, as with older bottles that
require a touch of care. Think back to the
occasions when you placed your thumb on a garden hose: restricting the cross sectional area of the
hose causes the fluid to rapidly accelerate and become turbulent – that is the
venturi effect, which works great when you need to reach the Geraniums in the hanging
basket on the veranda, but are you sure you really want that enforce that same degree of persuasion upon your wine? </span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a0Cpuhqwl9c/UAdR5kLb9bI/AAAAAAAABfk/2pfMmDArsL0/s1600/clef-du-vin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-a0Cpuhqwl9c/UAdR5kLb9bI/AAAAAAAABfk/2pfMmDArsL0/s200/clef-du-vin.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I’ll admit that contraptions like the Wine Vinturi do have a
place: dinner on a Friday night with minimal time for preparation where decanting
a bottle two hours before the meal is simply not possible is one such place. But what if you actually wanted to age the
wine, to taste as though it had aged for say, five years? How convenient would that be? Well friends, they’ve got a product for that
too. At first the concept was a small
stone-like object placed in the base of the decanter, some sort of mineral that
scientifically reacted with the wine to create the illusion of age. Now that same product looks like a thermometer
that you simply dip into the bottle and presto – five seconds equal five years
of age – well sort of, it’s a little more complicated than that but the tool,
known as a Clef du Vin is quite revolutionary as an indicator of a wine ageing
potential. Though I can’t help but
wonder: by using these products, are we also
stripping the wine of its soul? </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In <st1:country-region w:st="on">Spain</st1:country-region>’s
great Rioja region, winemakers delay the release of their prized gran reservas for
a minimum of five years. During this
time, regulation states that two years must be spent aging the wine in oak,
though in reality, many Spanish bodegas use these parameters only as a minimum. Marqués de Murrieta for example encased their
1970 Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva in oak casks for an astonishing 26 years prior
to bottling. I enjoyed this wine in
2010 with my wife on her 40th birthday.
As we drew the cork from the bottle the room filled with aromas of dark
fruit, soft leather, and an enticing spice – a spectacular wine if you ever
have the opportunity. The wood tames the
tannic structure of the wine while adding an array of flavours and aromas to
the final product. This is done so that
you, the consumer can enjoy these wines when they are bottled and subsequently released
to the public. The effort necessary to
produce, store, and monitor these wines is tremendous and it is this
unparalleled effort and dedication that results in such breathtaking characteristics
in the wine. Not that modern technology does
not add to the purity of the wine, indeed we must embrace science and modern
advancements in wine making but there is no substitute for experience and I
dare say the same cannot be accomplished via some technological wiz-bang
thingamajig. </span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Qn753FjSPIM/UAhWZRR0WVI/AAAAAAAABiA/q82_JGLpLxA/s1600/butler.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="190" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Qn753FjSPIM/UAhWZRR0WVI/AAAAAAAABiA/q82_JGLpLxA/s200/butler.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Unstopping the bottle is a matter of personal preference and
with the number of corkscrew designs available, surely there is one for
everyone’s style and taste. Some are
easier to use than others and we shouldn’t criticise any particular product too
heavily, for they are all designed to get you to the wine with the utmost
efficiency – except of course the thing that injects gas into the bottle to
blow the cork out – not really convinced that it works on the principal of
Newton’s Law; it might actually be Murphy’s.
I prefer the ‘waiter’s friend’
for most stoppers for its simple yet elegant principals. On occasion I will also use the ‘dishonest
butler’ – again, a touch old-school but when the cork is in poor condition or the
table is in desperate need of a change in conversation, it has yet to fail me. The story goes that many a butler have used
to two pronged extractor to sample wares from the cellar, unbeknownst to the
master of the house. Not only will the
two thin prongs remove the cork without damage, but they also make sliding the
stopper back into the bottle a seamless exercise - James, you sly dog! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I’ll conclude by stating that in wine, patience is a
virtue. To enjoy the subtle complexity of
the contents, your finest bottles should spend a few years by themselves. Consider starting a collection. By purchasing via two bottle lots as a
minimum, preferable three; quality over quantity, you will amass an assortment of
high quality labels to tuck away for enjoyment another day. Cellaring wine is not only a highly addictive
hobby, but an equally fascinating learning experience and with a few years left
undisturbed, you’ll feel satisfied knowing that you alone have nurtured these
bottles to perfection without the use of scientific stimulation. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I am currently dusting off old bottles that we tucked away well
over a decade ago only to find them in perfect drinking condition. And as we pair these old treasures with
friends, great food, and conversation, it is the soul of the wine that gracefully
speaks to us from the glass. You need only
listen to hear the voice...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Cheers</span> </div>
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Tyler Philphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09435914240300765715noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3337661775401884909.post-60526652259580039042012-06-20T13:02:00.000-04:002012-12-04T17:07:57.059-05:00Translating Burgundy<span style="font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>- As published in the Fall/Winter 2012 edition of Footprints magazine </i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It is no secret that my desert island wine comes affixed with a label from <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state>. In fact,
I’d likely make a few trips back to the sinking ship to nab the remaining bottles; that,
and a shovel to begin construction of a cellar in the sand. Come to think of it, wild game
on the island and fresh scallops in the sea… don’t bother sending a search
party. That said, I also appreciate that the thought of complex labels,
classified vineyards, and high price tags is enough to steer many people away from Burgundy.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The best explanation (that I have) for the continued attraction to this exceedingly
complex network of vineyards is that once you sample a superb bottle of <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state>, nothing else
seems to shine quite as bright. The challenge, however, is that these bottles are few and far between, and thus it becomes a quest to repeat
something that arguably may never be duplicated.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I do not intend to present anything pioneering in the way of ideas here, but rather I'd like to simplify the technicalities that intimidate newcomers when confronted by a bottle of Burgundy on the store shelf.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Burgundy is any one of the following: Chablis, the Côte d'Or, Beaujolais, Mâconnais, and the Côte Chalonnaise. As a comparison, Ontario has Niagara, the Beamsville Bench, Pelee Island, and Prince Edward County. Each region has its own flare and sense of place and you can draw a similar parallel almost anywhere grapes grow for the production of wine. The French call it terrior, as does anyone who has chosen to make a life of the vine. </span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ChSGB-w79no/UAcb3I1nniI/AAAAAAAABY4/i8lk6w1rfyU/s1600/complete-Burgundy-map.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ChSGB-w79no/UAcb3I1nniI/AAAAAAAABY4/i8lk6w1rfyU/s200/complete-Burgundy-map.jpg" width="137" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The taste of <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state> is
one that varies dramatically in terms of style. To understand this, we
must first define the geographical region. The landscape is literally a
patchwork of vineyards spread over a vertical axis along a twisted line of
rolling hills. The vines begin only 150 km southeast of <st1:city w:st="on">Paris</st1:city> and extend well south to encroach
on the vineyards of Rhône. To the north is the satellite of Chablis and
the home of mineral driven, unoaked Chardonnay. In nearby Irancy, a small
amount of Pinot is grown, and only a few kilometres southwest the village of
Saint-Bris crafts respectable Sauvignon Blanc. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Further to the south again, the
focus becomes rather intense, and as you enter the famous Côte d’Or or ‘golden slope’ where richly complex Pinot Noir dominates the vineyards of the Côte de Nuits.
These unassuming vines are without question the benchmark by which all Pinot is
compared. As a rule, the red wine begins to lighten in body as you travel south through
the Côte d’Or into Beaune where Pinot then takes a backseat to the delicately
oaked and ever changing wine of Chardonnay. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Chalonnaise and Mâconnais
follow and are home to more reasonably priced wine of the same varieties, in
addition to a hearty supply of lighter bodied wines and crémant (sparkling) sourced from the Aligoté grape. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On the third Thursday of each November, the <st1:place w:st="on">Beaujolais</st1:place> releases their fruity Nouveau to a world
of enthusiastic partygoers, but <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state>’s most southern sub-region may also
be its most misunderstood. Those in search of age worthy Gamay should
explore the wines of the 10 Beaujolais Crus for a deeper expression of flavour
and intensity. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Historically, each vineyard in the region was awarded a
classification based upon its position on the hillside and resultant potential
for ripening fruit. Typically, there are three tiers of vineyards: an upper
exposure, the mid-slope, and lower flat associated with each village. The
favourable plots are generally those found on the mid-slope with a southeastern
exposure in any given village. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">With some exceptions in Chablis and <st1:place w:st="on">Beaujolais</st1:place>,
the classification of these vineyards and composition as a percent of the
total production is as follows: </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> • Regional (basic
wine blended from anywhere in the region) 51%</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> • Village (better
quality from a specific village or commune) 37.5%</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> • Premier Cru (better
still) 10%</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> • Grand Cru
(exceptional) 1.5% </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Chablis has a similar hierarchy with the addition of Petit
Chablis below the Village level. <st1:place w:st="on">Beaujolais</st1:place> is a bit different with its Nouveau, Regional, Village, and Cru classes.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It goes without saying that as you ascend through the
hierarchy, the price increases (rather aggressively, I might add). Considering the rarity and auction hammer prices at Burgundy's top-end, it's not all that surprising to learn that the Côte d‘Or is also home to the world's most
expensive farmland - but let's steer clear of that topic. </span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mZV-5_HH1jU/UAdP96d89OI/AAAAAAAABfU/rBluV6_9gAw/s1600/burgundyterrain.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mZV-5_HH1jU/UAdP96d89OI/AAAAAAAABfU/rBluV6_9gAw/s320/burgundyterrain.jpg" width="247" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The complication of <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state> only becomes obvious when we
introduce the issue of ownership. In <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Bordeaux</st1:city>, <st1:state w:st="on">California</st1:state></st1:place>,
or most other wine regions, the vineyards on a given property are controlled by
a single body, be it a person or corporation. All fruit is accounted for, and the resultant wines are crafted through a reasonably consistent technique
and/or style. In <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state>,
consistency takes a turn for the worst, but not without reason: A bizarre
Napoleonic law stipulates that with each passing generation, the ownership of property
is split between siblings. And while the concept is not
unreasonable, a percentage of the new ownership (of say, a premier cru
vineyard) may lack the experience, interest, or resources to make quality
wine. Regulations permit ‘anyone’ producing wine from these vineyards to
label his or her bottles accordingly. That means that while you may think
you are purchasing a finer bottle from one of <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state>’s better plots, the product can
vary dramatically in terms of quality. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Enter the négociant: Within the body of <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state>, there are
individuals who purchase bulk grapes and/or juice from small owners to craft wine under their own
name. While the
négociant may or may not own vines in the vineyard, he or she is free to label
and sell the bottles under the name of the village or vineyard of origin.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">To put the subject in perspective, the majority of <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state> is
produced by approximately 120 négociants who in total, own less than 10% of the land
in the region. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A few big name négociants to look for are: Louis Latour,
Louis Jadot, Bouchard Père et Fils, Domaine Faiveley, Vincent Giradin, Domaine
Roux Père et Fils, and Joseph Drouhin to list only a few. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">That certainly does not imply that you should avoid the
small and more focussed production from individual ‘Domains’. Indeed, the
very best <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state> is
that of single ownership and which originated from the soil and was nurtured to
perfection with minimal influence. You just need to know what to look for before purchasing these wines. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">For additional information on the classification and ranking
of <st1:state w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state>,
I strongly recommend that you consult <a href="http://www.amazon.com/World-Atlas-Wine-Hugh-Johnson/dp/1840003324" target="_blank">Hugh Johnson’s World Atlas of Wine</a>.</span><br />
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Tyler Philphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09435914240300765715noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3337661775401884909.post-14476706682485947272012-05-21T10:24:00.001-04:002013-01-30T13:38:39.338-05:00Wine Etiquette<br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>- the challenges of pairing wine with a group of people.</i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I am continually flabbergasted by the number of people who when offered, choose not to enjoy a glass of wine with their meal or as a social connection. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Granted, there will always be a percentage of the population who choose not to partake in the consumption of alcoholic beverages: designated drivers are essential to the success of any social gathering, religious practices must be observed, and medical conditions – legitimate or imaginary may dictate the need to abstain. There are also those who curiously do not enjoy the taste of wine. And if I was not the host of frequent events involving alcoholic beverages, then I suppose I’d be somewhat impartial to the preferences of others. Reality however, dictates that not everyone is equally enthusiastic about this subject. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">To most people, wine is nothing more than a beverage with little more importance than a glass of orange juice at the breakfast table or a bottle of water at the park. It serves the simple purpose of quenching one’s thirst or to wash down a swallow of food – it tastes good and that is all that is expected. To think that these same people care where the wine came from, at what altitude the grape were grown, <i>mis en bouteille au Château</i>, or what blend concocts the brew is an entirely absurd expectation. We must also understand that as wine enthusiasts, we are by far the minority in any group and that people who care to discuss the degree of extraction or the likelihood of cold stabilization are few and far between.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As connoisseurs of the drink, should we really care if people decline the opportunity to sample what is arguably the most profound of all beverages? The answer is probably not; s</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">ome people just simply choose to abstain.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> On the other hand, and </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">considering both the effort and cost involved in selecting the perfect bottle for the right occasion, </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">abstinence without intelligent reason may leave you somewhat bewildered, if not slightly offended (I fall into this camp). </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But here lies the question: </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">when and for whom do you open your best bottles? Imagine this comment at the dinner table: ‘I’ll bet that we are not drinking one of the fancy bottles from your cellar, are we?’ Slightly awkward indeed, but good etiquette calls for tactful redirection (though my thought at the time was, ‘<i>Ah yes, that’s because you can't tell the obvious difference between Riesling and Merlot my friend.</i>)' Perhaps the better tactic is more a question of recognition on the part of the host. Let me explain:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Recognizing the preferences, expectations, and limitations of your group is paramount to the success of any function. But the real talent is to cater to exceptions and please everyone without drawing attention to any particular person’s individual needs. </span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FVE7Wn3q3Hk/UAnFwj420tI/AAAAAAAABjQ/SsoS8uq5pUo/s1600/fruit+drink.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FVE7Wn3q3Hk/UAnFwj420tI/AAAAAAAABjQ/SsoS8uq5pUo/s200/fruit+drink.jpg" width="131" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">For the nondrinkers, I suggest a variety of bottled water, fresh juices, and hot or iced tea. The presentation of these drinks deserves no less attention and a little imagination and research will reveal a wealth of creative techniques to jazz up the glass. </span><br />
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As for the wine… gauge but do not judge your audience: Are they casual drinkers, inquisitive palates, or hardcore enthusiasts? Consider several bottles for the occasion. The labels that you serve should coincide with the level of interest that your guests display, and that is easily determined with a surprisingly simple question: </div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>‘Can I get you a glass of wine?’</i> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The answer that each person provides will paint a picture of their level of knowledge and degree of taste:</span></div>
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<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">‘No thank you’ – likely a nondrinker; no problem whatsoever. Without putting anyone on the spot, take a moment to explore an alternative choice of beverage. </span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">‘Only if you have something open’ – a casual response that dictates a casual bottle. No pressure, no fuss, just a nice glass of wine.
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<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">‘I don’t drink’ – the tone tells the story, and there is a good chance that this person is just begging for you to ask why? Don’t go there… I lump this type in with the group that need to be sick: ‘Can I get you something else? Herbal tea, de-cafe coffee, a kick in the ass…’</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">‘Sure, that would be great’ – explore their taste with another question: Would you prefer red, white, something sparkling? A bottle of each should always be ‘ready-to-go’.</span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">‘What are you pouring?’ – one of two possibilities: above average knowledge or a touch of arrogance. Follow up with a few options or ask if they have a particular region in mind (provided you can support such an offering). Inquiring minds love to explore unfamiliar territory and uncharted tastes. Unfortunately though pretension is far more common than knowledge and equally easy to detect. That said, do not highlight the obvious, but rather work with these folks to select a nice bottle. True knowledge is only gained through experience – help them along, they probably mean well. </span></li>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">With practice, this approach will become second nature. Your questions while serving a specific purpose will appear nothing more than a polite gesture. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Cheers</span></div>
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Tyler Philphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09435914240300765715noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3337661775401884909.post-2817869012183308852012-05-02T23:54:00.000-04:002012-05-13T21:30:10.010-04:00Cellar Ghosts<br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I’m a list kinda person; if for no other reason than to
organize my own thoughts. I don’t care to
rank items, and I don’t believe in the concept of numerical
grades</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">– certainly not for wine</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">. But curiously, I always tally
the results: who, what, and where it was
consumed. This blog is evidence of that; the core of the North of 9 tasting group is centred around the
idea. What could be more enjoyable than
to reminisce about a few favourite bottles and the occasion for which they were opened?
I call them Cellar Ghosts, memorable empties… you get the picture. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In our old stone cellar, I have several wooden
wine cases. Each crate is filled with empty bottles – time capsules, if you will, all containing a different story. I can pick up any one of these
bottles and recall when, where, and with whom we shared the contents. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I’d like to share a few of my Cellar Ghosts with you...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Select the link button below to view:</span><br />
<br />
<a href="http://pinterest.com/tylerphilp/cellar-ghosts/"><img alt="Follow Me on Pinterest" height="28" src="https://a248.e.akamai.net/passets.pinterest.com.s3.amazonaws.com/images/about/buttons/pinterest-button.png" width="80" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>Tyler Philphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09435914240300765715noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3337661775401884909.post-20294410129488917322012-04-20T19:07:00.000-04:002012-07-18T20:20:50.493-04:00Remind me again... what exactly am I looking for?<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">“Now ladies and gentlemen, if you will each raise your wine glass to your nose I’m sure that you will agree that the scent of black cherry, cinnamon, truffle and the slightest hint of eucalyptus quite typically displays the varietal character of this wine.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">What the hell! Am I the only person in the room that has a problem with this? Judging by the expression on the lady’s face sitting across from me, apparently not – in fact, I think the cork just flew over her head.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">“Is it wrong that all I smell is red wine?” she whispered.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">“Do you like it?” I queried back.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">“Ya, it tastes really good but I don’t smell any of those things.”<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">With one eyebrow raised, “I doubt that he does either,” I responded.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">That was several months ago at a fancy dinner hosted by a gentleman who’s tie was just a little too tight as he attempted to educate the group on the wines being served while reading from his cue-cards. Ridiculous - yes, but it does bring up a good discussion. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now don’t get me wrong, I’m all about enjoying the fine nuances of a great glass of wine but please don’t make more of this than need be; it’s a drink, not a science project, and there is both a time and place where this sort of critique is valid, but that place is not at the dinner table surrounded by people who really don’t care to know this information.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So the question remains: Can anyone actually smell or taste the bizarre array of adjectives regularly printed on tasting note cards alongside bottles on the store shelves? The short answer is ‘yes’ while the abbreviated and slightly sarcastic long answer is ‘who really cares’, but more so, what do you stand to gain from these tasting notes? <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The author of any tasting note is describing the variety of grape(s) and style of wine. Within that style, he or she may also find a curious scent or taste to complement the typical (varietal) character of the wine in question. <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Shiraz</st1:city></st1:place> for example will normally display a rather pronounced aroma and taste of dark fruits such blackberries and plums in addition to the sensation of dark chocolate and pepper spice. If the wine is from a warm new world region such as <st1:country-region w:st="on">Australia</st1:country-region>, these characteristics tend to be more obvious than the same from a traditional producer in the cooler climates of <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">France</st1:country-region></st1:place>. Does that mean that you are wrong to detect something else, like raspberries or leather? Not at all, and that is what makes this subject so interesting. Wine is subjective; your mood, the theme of the restaurant, food pairing choices, and the company you share will all influence the taste of a glass of wine. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Your potential enjoyment of a glass of wine is entirely predicated on what you choose to make of it. That pleasure may range from an in-depth analysis to absolutely nothing more than a thirst quenching beverage with no one extreme being more enjoyable than the other. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If you have yet to find something jumping out of the glass at you, be patient, it will happen. But don’t try too hard, let your mind relax and allow your senses do all the work. With a little practice, some curious aroma or taste is sure to catch you off guard. I was once a skeptic too… until the scent of licorice leaped from the glass at me one day several years ago. Now, I can’t wait to see how each new glass of this magical potion will captivate my mind and intrigue my senses.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span class="apple-style-span"><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i>‘Wine is one of the most civilized things in the world and one of the most natural things of the world that has been brought to the greatest perfection, and it offers a greater range for enjoyment and appreciation than, possibly, any other purely sensory thing.’</i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> <span class="apple-style-span"><i>- Ernest Hemingway<o:p></o:p></i></span></span></div>
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Tyler Philphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09435914240300765715noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3337661775401884909.post-58627923228994727832012-04-15T19:31:00.028-04:002013-01-17T15:31:26.214-05:00Food and Wine Pairing - Tips & Tricks<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Before I suggest anything related to food and wine pairings, let me emphasize that taste is a matter of personal preference, and that what may seem obscure to one person is sure to appeal to another. In other words, in the privacy of your own company, drink what you like and pair it with what you enjoy. S</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">hould your plans include a house full of guests, you might want to follow a few basic guidelines to ensure that creativity does not exceed expectation...</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Please take your time, there is a great deal of material in this article to digest (pun intended). You can also click the print icon at the bottom of the post for a hard copy. </span></div>
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<i><span style="color: #3d85c6; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>In General</b></span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Enjoy ~> White before Red - Dry before Sweet - Young before Old</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Consider the meal as a summation of flavours and textures. The wine that you select should be one that compliments the overall package, i.e. the richer the dish, the more full and flavourful the wine required. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Many people turn their nose up at the thought of acidity in wine. </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We're not talking extreme pH here, but rather just enough zip to get your taste buds tingling before the next mouthful. </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It is the acidity in both food and wine that makes you salivate; without it, many taste combinations would become dull, flat, and in some case cloying. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Cliché: Red with meat and White with fish… sure, why not? It works - as a general rule. But with the mix of cultures plus the introduction of new dishes and cooking methods, there is so much more to consider beyond this catchall philosophy.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #3d85c6; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b><i>Consider: </i></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The method of preparation: Raw, steamed, or boiled food has a lighter flavour intensity when compared to that which is braised, roasted, or grilled.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In many cases, you must pair the wine with the sauce and not with what is underneath.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Side dishes: A roast turkey itself is generally a mild flavoured meat. The dressing, gravy, and side dishes however add a multitude of flavours and textures to the equation.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></div>
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<b><i><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: #3d85c6;">Pairing Techniques: </span><o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Respect the older wine regions’ culinary and viticultural history; the two have likely grown together. A</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> fail-safe method of pairing is to consider the origin of the food and choose a wine from that region. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Some food/wine pairings are ‘like for like’ while others pose the idea that ‘opposites’ attract. </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Do you want the wine to ‘enhance’ the flavours of the dish or act as a ‘highlight’ by contrasting flavours and textures?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">~> Like for Like: An element of the dish will compliment a similar quality in the wine i.e. Pork and applesauce with the apple flavours of Chardonnay.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">‘Bridge Ingredients’ are additions to the dish that enhance both the flavour and texture of a pairing. Examples are the minty aroma of a cool climate Cabernet Sauvignon and mint seasoning in a dish such a lamb. Another bridge is to pair an oaked Chardonnay with a dish containing toasted hazelnuts or almonds. The oak influence of the wine barrels imparts these same characteristics to the wine and the two combine to complement each other in the pairing. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">~> Contrasting (opposite) flavours and textures: Every wonder why bitter salad greens pair so well with a acidic dressing? Individually, both elements are somewhat unappealing, but together the two tastes and textures mingle perfectly. The same concept works well with food and wine pairings and the most common example is to combine a crisp, acidic wine with a rich cream-based dish. The heavy texture and flavours of the food are whisked away with each refreshing sip of the wine leaving a clean palate for the next bite. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Consider the flavour of the dish: Sour / Sharp / Savoury / Spicy / Smoky / Sweet</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></div>
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<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sour/sharp tastes call for a similar level of acidity in the wine, try: Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, or Valpolicella.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Spicy foods need a wine of contrast, try an unoaked example such as: Chablis, Gewurtz, Albariño, Riesling, or Pinot Grigio. Lighter-bodied, juicy reds as well as sweeter whites will also work with a hit of spice.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Smoky tastes call for the similar character of </span><st1:place style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" w:st="on">Shiraz</st1:place><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> or Zinfandel but will also work with a contrast of sweetness: Try an off-dry Riesling.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Desserts and Sweet tastes – the wine you choose must be at least as sweet as the food. Otherwise the wine will seem thin and bitter.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">With salty food try: Chablis, Muscadet, or Sherry. A touch of sweetness will work well too: think prosciutto and melon: consider an off-dry Riesling</span></li>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Vintage</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Port</st1:placetype></st1:place> and Stilton cheese – on its own, the cheese is aggressive, assertive, and slightly intrusive. But the port adds a sweet richness and textural compliment that neutralizes the saltiness and overall intensity of the hard cheese.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fresh strawberries and old <st1:city w:st="on">Bordeaux</st1:city> – the fresh berries bring out the subtle strawberry fruit character of the wine. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Goat cheese and Sauvignon Blanc - it is a passage to fine taste! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Cedar plank Salmon and Pinot Noir - classic aromas of cedar, cinnamon, and cherry pair beautifully.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><st1:state w:st="on">Champagne</st1:state> and Caviar – a bit hoity-toity in my opinion, but yes, this is a classic.</span></div>
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<i><span style="color: #3d85c6; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Tips, Tricks, and random Thoughts</b></span></i><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></div>
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<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The wine that you cook with should be similar in both quality and style to the wine that you serve.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ask the waiter if there is any wine in the dish… if so, I’d buy that same wine off the list if possible.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Dishes with strong citrus or vinaigrette flavour need a wine that is high in acidity.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">An alternative to vinaigrette salad dressing is to splash a little of the wine or some lemon juice on the salad instead.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A squeeze of lemon on foods will make full-bodied wines seem less oaky (it works for both white and red).</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fatty or oily foods can become cloying with a heavy wine – try a more crisp/acidic wine instead.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Asparagus contains a naturally occurring sulphur component called methyl mercaptan which can lead to a metallic/tinny aftertaste. Try Sauvignon Blanc or Gruner Veltliner.</span> </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hard cheeses generally pair with red wine while the soft creamy examples go with white.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Avoid fortified wines with soft creamy textured cheeses like Brie or Camembert.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Try Sauvignon, Chenin Blanc, Savenniéres, or even sparkling wine.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A salty dish calls for wine with higher acidity. The salt will neutralize the acidity of the wine to bring out the flavour of both.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Eggs mask the sense of taste.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The bubbles in the sparkling wine/Champagne will act to scrape the taste buds clean.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">With tomato based sauce and pasta try wine with higher acidity to match the intensity of the dish:</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Chianti, Barbera, Rioja Crianza, or </span><st1:state style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" w:st="on">Veneto</st1:state><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Wonderful together ~> Roast chicken with Cru </span><st1:place style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" w:st="on">Beaujolais</st1:place><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">… 10 different crus to choose from.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pairing with older wine:</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Always have an understudy bottle, in case the first is corked.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pairing with older wine:</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Be careful not to overpower the delicacy of the wine with rich/spicy foods.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">When eating spicy food, try a clean, crisp white to refresh the palate.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There is a magical connection between Gewurztraminer and the ginger spice.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Wines from ‘down-under’ pair surprisingly well with spicy Asian foods:</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Try Australian Chardonnay, Semillion, or Gewurztraminer from </span><st1:country -region="-region" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" w:st="on">New Zealand</st1:country><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></li>
<li><st1:city style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" w:st="on">Dijon</st1:city><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> is at the top of the </span><st1:state style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" w:st="on">Burgundy</st1:state><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">’s great Côte d’Or.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Try pork tenderloin or baked ham with mustard glaze and a bottle Pinot Noir.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Stodgy old British men drink their </span><st1:place style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Tawny</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Port</st1:placetype></st1:place><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> chilled with a dish of walnuts.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ultra cool Canadian bloggers drink it at room temperature paired with milk chocolate – Amazingly good ;)</span></li>
<li><st1:state style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" w:st="on">Champagne</st1:state><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> and eggs is another classic, though you may have bigger problems if you are drinking at 8am.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Protein-rich foods soften the tannin in wine.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">That is why we generalize red wine with red meat.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ribs on the BBQ screams for Cali Zinfandel, Chilean Cab, or an Aussie Shiraz.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The taste of salt tends to mask the tannins in youthful red wine.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Creamy sauces need an acidic wine that will cut through the weight. Try Sauvignon, Alsacian Riesling or Pinot Gri(gio)</span></li>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> ~> PX (Pedro Ximénez) Sherry with Vanilla Ice Cream – incredible! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> ~> Black truffles with Aged Burgundy / White truffles with Old Barolo. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> ~> Smoked salmon and fino sherry.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> ~> A single fresh raspberry and a mouthful of dry Prosecco - OMG!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> ~> Dark chocolate and a big Cali Cab are magical. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> ~> Chateauneuf du Pape with lamb curry and fig chutney</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b><i><span style="color: #3d85c6; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pairings to Avoid</span></i></b><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></div>
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<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: orange;">!</span> Despite popular belief, some Wine and Cheese combination do not pair well together: Smoked cheese is probably the most notorious and I'd avoid wine altogether here. Stinky old and veined cheese is another problem child; for these, you need sweetness as a contrast. </span><st1:place style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" w:st="on"><st1:placename w:st="on">Try</st1:placename> <st1:placetype w:st="on">Port</st1:placetype></st1:place><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, Sauternes, or Hungarian Tokaji. </span></span></li>
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<li><span style="color: orange; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">!</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> When serving a very mature wine, be careful not to upstage it with a dish that is too agressive.</span></li>
<li><span style="color: orange; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">!</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Smoky foods and oaky wines can be too much together. Try to avoid too much 'wood’ flavour. </span></li>
<li><span style="color: orange; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">!</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> The iodine in some fish such a mackerel, haddock and cod will react with the tannin structure of red wine to create a metallic taste. Consider a fruity red or white instead.</span></li>
<li><span style="color: orange; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">!</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Very hot and spicy food paired with full-bodied, high-alcohol reds will increase the perception of heat on the palate. Try lighter, fruit wines instead… or better yet, beer.</span></li>
<li><span style="color: orange; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">!</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> High alcohol wine will emphasis the saline in salty food - exercise caution.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="color: orange;">!</span> Egg yolks coats the palate and restricts the sense of taste. Try sparkling wine to cleanse the palate.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></li>
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<span style="color: #3d85c6;"><b><i><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pairing Tips for Vegetarians</span></i></b><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></span></div>
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<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The wine pairing depends on how you cook the vegetables… </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Roasting and Grilling vegetables adds richness to the taste which will help tame the wine’s tannins.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Artichokes with wine are troublesome; they cause the wine to taste sweeter than expected.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Avoid reds and opt for a higher acidity dry</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> Italian white instead.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Consider mature wine over young. It will have less tannin structure, and won't overwhelm the dish.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Beans / lentils take you to the south of </span><st1:country -region="-region" style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" w:st="on">France</st1:country><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Try a </span><st1:state style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" w:st="on">Languedoc</st1:state><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> or </span><st1:place style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" w:st="on">Roussillon</st1:place><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> red</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Raw/Steamed? Try a light-bodied white wine.</span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Asparagus:</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sauvignon Blanc if served with vinaigrette, but unoaked Chardonnay if with cheese or hollandaise sauce.</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pinot Noir's lively acidity, Merlot's low tannins, or </span><st1:place style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" w:st="on">Beaujolais</st1:place><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">’ freshness are all vegetarian food friendly wines.</span></li>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://northof9finewine.com/Food%20and%20Wine%20Pairing%20Tips%20and%20Tricks.pdf">Print a copy for reference > here</a>
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Tyler Philphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09435914240300765715noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3337661775401884909.post-72315748106966559812012-03-28T14:26:00.000-04:002012-11-16T19:58:13.738-05:00Wine Diamonds :: Corked wine or Flawed perception
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Not long ago, at an upscale dining establishment on the outskirts of <st1:place w:st="on"><st1:city w:st="on">Aurora</st1:city>, <st1:state w:st="on">Ontario</st1:state></st1:place>, my wife and I were sitting together at a table in the corner enjoying a lovely bottle of Chianti with our bruschetta and pasta entrées. <a href="http://www.joiaristorante.com/"><span style="color: #3d85c6;">Joia Ristorante</span></a> is a great place to eat, and I think that perhaps we both feel a few years younger than we really are as we sit amongst the hustle and bustle of the waite staff watching people come and go. But it’s fun to get dressed up, ditch the kids and hit the town for a great meal paired with a good bottle of wine. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">At the table adjacent to ours, a couple were engaged in a rather heated discussion with the waiter. Apparently, there were ‘bits of hard stuff’ stuck to the bottom of the cork from the bottle he had opened for them only moments before. From my vantage-point, I was unable to identify the label on the bottle but judging by the body language and ensuing performance, it was clearly a finer choice on the wine list, which incidentally, one might mistake for an old leather-bound bible. Within the coveted document, patrons are presented with a plethora of very fine (and expensive) choices. But expensive wine also comes with an elevated expectation, which is perfectly acceptable – if you know what to look for. Let’s put it this way: a 15 year old bottle from <st1:country-region w:st="on">France</st1:country-region>’s Côtes du Rhône will only vaguely resemble the recently harvested Aussie Shiraz that you opened last summer to sip poolside with the burgers in your backyard. The challenge however, is that most patrons do not recognize how significantly a bottle of wine can change with time. ‘It’s flawed’ demanded the couple, and without even tasting the contents, ‘Take it away!’</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">One of the more fascinating aspects of the great transformation which occurs inside a bottle of wine is the concept of sedimentation. Save for a minute amount of oxygen transfer, the bottle is essentially a sealed environment and while nothing has entered or left the bottle, the composition of the contents has changed; in some cases rather significantly. Colour and tannin precipitate out of the liquid solution in the form of a powder-like sediment that collects in the bottle and this formation is both natural and inevitable the longer the bottle sits. During the winemaking process however, should the bottle not be subjected to cold stabilization (which I will explain shortly) a crystal-like mineral deposit may form and settle at the bottom or in some cases, adhere itself to the cork. Though formally known as Tartrates, these crystals are also referred to as Wine Diamonds.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Normally, the crystals are dull or colourless while on other occasions they remain bright and vibrant. What you are actually looking at is mineralized tartaric acid (potassium bitartrate crystals). It's harmless and contrary to popular belief, does not indicate a flawed bottle of wine. Wine diamonds develop only under certain conditions and are an indication of well made wine. Generally, the grapes used in the production of a wine which develops tartrates were allow to full ripen on the vine and thus contain a higher brix level (sugar content). Additionally, the fermentation process was not accelerated nor artificially tampered with to expedite the bottling process - hence, well made wine.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In </span><st1:place style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" w:st="on">North America</st1:place><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, we don't readily accept unfiltered wine as the normal; simply put, people don't want bits of stuff floating about in their wine glass. To prevent this, the wine is filtered several times and in some cases, subjected to a process called 'Cold Stabilization' - it just sounds bad doesn't it? It's actually very straightforward: To prevent the formation of tartaric acid minerals in the bottle, winemakers rapidly cool the wine in a large stainless steel tanks. The sudden cold temperature causes the tartaric acid to precipitate out of the liquid and fall to the bottle of the vessel. The clear wine is then pumped or siphoned off the top for bottling or additional filtering, but here is the catch, for clarity does not come without cost... Purists, enthusiasts, and those who claim to taste the difference in terrior from one row of vines to the next will attest that cold stabilization and excessive filtration also strips a wine of its unique personality and the more you drink wine that has not been over-processed, the sooner you will realize that they just might be correct.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The next time you pop a cork, remember that what goes on inside a sealed bottle of wine is still one of life’s great mysteries. Don’t be too quick to find fault with the contents if something is seemingly out of place. And if you do discover a few diamonds in the rough, consider yourself very fortunate.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Cheers!</span></div>
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</div>Tyler Philphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09435914240300765715noreply@blogger.com5