Wine Etiquette

- the challenges of pairing wine with a group of people.

I am continually flabbergasted by the number of people who, when offered, choose not to enjoy a glass of wine with their meal or as a social connection. 

Granted, there will always be a percentage of people who choose not to partake in the consumption of alcoholic beverages.  And that is perfectly fine; designated drivers are essential to the success of any social gathering, religious practices must be observed, and medical conditions – legitimate or imaginary may dictate the need to abstain.  There are also those who curiously do not enjoy the taste of wine.  And if I was not the host of frequent events involving alcoholic beverages, then I suppose I’d be somewhat impartial to the preferences of others.  But reality dictates that not everyone is equally enthusiastic about this subject.     

To most people, wine is nothing more than a beverage with little more importance than a glass of orange juice at the breakfast table or a bottle of water at the park.  It serves the simple purpose of quenching one’s thirst or to wash down a swallow of food – it tastes good and that is all that is expected.  To think that these same people care where the wine came from, at what altitude the grape were grown, mis en bouteille au Château, or what blend concocts the brew is an entirely absurd expectation.  We must also understand that as wine enthusiasts, we are by far the minority in any group, and that people who care to discuss the degree of extraction or the likelihood of cold stabilization are few and far between.

   

As connoisseurs of the drink, should we really care if people decline the opportunity to sample what is arguably the most profound of all beverages?  The answer is probably not; some people just simply choose to abstain.  On the other hand, and considering both the effort and cost involved in selecting the perfect bottle for the right occasion, abstinence without intelligent reason may leave you somewhat bewildered, if not slightly offended (I fall into this camp).  But here lies the question:  when and for whom do you open your best bottles?  Imagine this comment at the dinner table: ‘I’ll bet that we are not drinking one of the fancy bottles from your cellar, are we?’  Slightly awkward indeed, but good etiquette calls for tactful redirection (though my thought at the time was,  ‘Ah yes, that’s because you can't tell the obvious difference between Riesling and Merlot my friend.’) Perhaps the better tactic is more a question of recognition on the part of the host.  Let me explain:

Recognizing the preferences, expectations, and limitations of your group is paramount to the success of any function.  But the real talent is to cater to exceptions and please everyone without drawing attention to any particular person’s individual needs. 

For the non-drinkers, I suggest a variety of bottled water, fresh juices, and hot or iced tea.  The presentation of these drinks deserves no less attention and a little imagination and research will reveal a wealth of creative techniques to jazz up the glass. 

As for the wine… gauge but do not judge your audience:  Are they casual drinkers, inquisitive palates, or hardcore enthusiasts?  Consider several bottles for the occasion.  The labels that you serve should coincide with the level of interest that your guests display, and that is easily determined with a surprisingly simple question: 

‘Can I get you a glass of wine?’ 

The answer that each person provides will paint a picture of their level of knowledge and degree of taste:

• ‘No thank you’ – likely a non-drinker; no problem whatsoever.  Without putting anyone on the spot, take a moment to explore an alternative choice of beverage. 

• ‘Only if you have something open’ – a casual response that dictates a casual bottle.  No pressure, no fuss, just a nice glass of wine.

• ‘I don’t drink’ – the tone tells the story, and there is a good chance that this person is just begging for you to ask why?   Don’t go there… I lump this type in with the group that need to be sick:  ‘Can I get you something else?  Herbal tea, de-cafe coffee, a kick in the ass…’

• ‘Sure, that would be great’ – explore their taste with another question:  Would you prefer red, white, something sparkling?  A bottle of each should always be ‘ready-to-go’.

• ‘What are you pouring?’ – one of two possibilities:  above average knowledge or a touch of arrogance.  Follow up with a few options or ask if they have a particular region in mind (provided you can support such an offering).   Inquiring minds love to explore unfamiliar territory and uncharted tastes.   Unfortunately though, pretension is far more common than knowledge and equally easy to detect.  That said, do not highlight the obvious, but rather work with these folks to select a nice bottle.  True knowledge is only gained through experience – help them along, they probably mean well. 

With practice, this approach will become second nature.  Your questions while serving a specific purpose will appear nothing more than a polite gesture. 

Cheers

  

Cellar Ghosts

I’m a list kinda person; if for no other reason than to organize my own thoughts.  I don’t care to rank items, and I don’t believe in the concept of numerical grades – certainly not for wine. But curiously, I always tally the results: who, what, and where it was consumed. This blog is evidence of that; the core of the North of 9 tasting group is centred around the idea.  What could be more enjoyable than to reminisce about a few favourite bottles and the occasion for which they were opened?  I call them Cellar Ghosts, memorable empties… you get the picture.  

In our old stone cellar, I have several wooden wine cases.  Each crate is filled with empty bottles – time capsules, if you will, all containing a different story.  I can pick up any one of these bottles and recall when, where, and with whom we shared the contents. 

I’d like to share a few of my Cellar Ghosts with you...

Select the link button below to view:

Remind me again... what exactly am I looking for?

“Now ladies and gentlemen, if you will each raise your wine glass to your nose I’m sure that you will agree that the scent of black cherry, cinnamon, truffle and the slightest hint of eucalyptus quite typically displays the varietal character of this wine.”

What the hell!  Am I the only person in the room that has a problem with this?  Judging by the expression on the lady’s face sitting across from me, apparently not – in fact, I think the cork just flew over her head.

       

“Is it wrong that all I smell is red wine?” she whispered.

“Do you like it?” I queried back.

“Ya, it tastes really good but I don’t smell any of those things.”

With one eyebrow raised, “I doubt that he does either,”  I responded.

That was several months ago at a fancy dinner hosted by a gentleman who’s tie was just a little too tight as he attempted to educate the group on the wines being served while reading from his cue-cards.  Ridiculous - yes, but it does bring up a good discussion.

Now don’t get me wrong, I’m all about enjoying the fine nuances of a great glass of wine but please don’t make more of this than need be; it’s a drink, not a science project, and there is both a time and place where this sort of critique is valid, but that place is not at the dinner table surrounded by people who really don’t care to know this information.

So the question remains:  Can anyone actually smell or taste the bizarre array of adjectives regularly printed on tasting note cards alongside bottles on the store shelves?  The short answer is ‘yes’ while the abbreviated and slightly sarcastic long answer is ‘who really cares’, but more so, what do you stand to gain from these tasting notes? 

The author of any tasting note is describing the variety of grape(s) and style of wine.  Within that style, he or she may also find a curious scent or taste to complement the typical (varietal) character of the wine in question.  Shiraz for example will normally display a rather pronounced aroma and taste of dark fruits such blackberries and plums in addition to the sensation of dark chocolate and pepper spice.  If the wine is from a warm new world region such as Australia, these characteristics tend to be more obvious than the same from a traditional producer in the cooler climates of France.  Does that mean that you are wrong to detect something else, like raspberries or leather?  Not at all, and that is what makes this subject so interesting.  Wine is subjective; your mood, the theme of the restaurant, food pairing choices, and the company you share will all influence the taste of a glass of wine.  

Your potential enjoyment of a glass of wine is entirely predicated on what you choose to make of it.  That pleasure may range from an in-depth analysis to absolutely nothing more than a thirst quenching beverage with no one extreme being more enjoyable than the other.

If you have yet to find something jumping out of the glass at you, be patient, it will happen.  But don’t try too hard, let your mind relax and allow your senses do all the work.  With a little practice, some curious aroma or taste is sure to catch you off guard.  I was once a skeptic too… until the scent of licorice leaped from the glass at me one day several years ago.  Now, I can’t wait to see how each new glass of this magical potion will captivate my mind and intrigue my senses.

‘Wine is one of the most civilized things in the world and one of the most natural things of the world that has been brought to the greatest perfection, and it offers a greater range for enjoyment and appreciation than, possibly, any other purely sensory thing.’

- Ernest Hemingway

Pairing Food and Wine - Tips & Tricks

Before I suggest anything related to food and wine pairings, let me emphasize that taste is a matter of personal preference, and that what may seem obscure to one person is sure to appeal to another.  In other words: In the privacy of your own company, drink what you like and pair it with what you enjoy.  Should your plans include a house full of guests, you might want to follow a few basic guidelines to ensure that creativity does not exceed expectation...

Those who participated in the April 11th, 2012 WineChat via Twitter will recognize much of the material listed below. Response to that online discussion was exceptional, but I also appreciate that one hour is insufficient to absorb the bombardment of wine pairing thoughts that flew across your screen.  It is also rather challenging to convey the depth of this subject in snippets of 140 characters or less. With that, I've provided this post so that you may review this material at a more leisurely pace.  Please take your time, there is a lot of content in this article to digest (pun intended).  You can also click the print icon at the bottom of the post for a hard copy.  Cheers! 

In General

Enjoy ~> White before Red - Dry before Sweet - Young before Old

Consider the meal as a summation of flavours and textures.  The wine that you select should be one that compliments the overall package, i.e. the richer the dish, the more full and flavourful the wine required.  

Many people turn their nose up at the thought of acidity in wine.  We're not talking extreme pH here, but rather just enough zip to get your taste buds tingling before the next mouthful.  It is the acidity in both food and wine that makes you salivate; without it, many taste combinations would become dull, flat, and in some case cloying.    

The Cliché:  Red with meat and White with fish… sure, why not?  It works - as a general rule.  But with the mix of cultures plus the introduction of new dishes and cooking methods, there is so much more to consider beyond this catchall philosophy.

Consider:

The method of preparation:  Raw, steamed, or boiled food has a lighter flavour intensity when compared to that which is braised, roasted, or grilled.

In many cases, you must pair the wine with the sauce and not with what is underneath.

Side dishes:  A roast turkey itself is generally a mild flavoured meat.  The dressing, gravy, and side dishes however add a multitude of flavours and textures to the equation. 

Pairing Techniques:

Respect the older wine regions’ culinary and viticultural history, the two have likely grown together.  A fail-safe method of pairing is to consider the origin of the food and choose a wine from that region. 

Some food/wine pairings are ‘like for like’ while others pose the idea that ‘opposites’ attract.  Do you want the wine to ‘enhance’ the flavours of the dish or act as a ‘highlight’ by contrasting flavours and textures?

~> Like for Like: An element of the dish will compliment a similar quality in the wine i.e. Pork and applesauce with the apple flavours of Chardonnay.

‘Bridge Ingredients’ are additions to the dish that enhance both the flavour and texture of a pairing. Examples are the minty aroma of a cool climate Cabernet Sauvignon and mint seasoning in a dish such a lamb.  Another bridge is to pair an oaked Chardonnay with a dish containing toasted hazelnuts or almonds. The oak influence of the wine barrels imparts these same characteristics to the wine and the two combine to complement each other in the pairing.  

~> Contrasting (opposite) flavours and textures: Every wonder why bitter salad greens pair so well with a acidic dressing?  Individually, both elements are somewhat unappealing, but together the two tastes and textures mingle perfectly. The same concept works well with food and wine pairings and the most common example is too combine a crisp, acidic wine with a rich cream-based dish.  The heavy texture and flavours of the food are whisked away with each refreshing sip of the wine leaving a clean palate for the next bite. 

Consider the flavour of the dish: Sour / Sharp / Savoury / Spicy / Smoky / Sweet 

• Sour/sharp tastes call for a similar level of acidity in the wine, try: Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, or Valpolicella.
• Spicy foods need a wine of contrast, try an unoaked example such as: Chablis, Gewurtz, Albariño, Riesling, or Pinot Grigio. Lighter-bodied, juicy reds as well as sweeter whites will also work with a hit of spice.
• Smoky tastes call for the similar character of Shiraz or Zinfandel but will also work with a contrast of sweetness: Try an off-dry Riesling.
• Desserts and Sweet tastes – the wine you choose must be at least as sweet as the food.  Otherwise the wine will seem thin and sour.
• With salty food try:  Chablis, Muscadet, or Sherry.  A touch of sweetness will work well too: think prosciutto and melon: consider an off-dry Riesling

A few Classics

Vintage Port and Stilton cheese – on its own, the cheese is aggressive, assertive, and slightly intrusive.  But the port adds a sweet richness and textural compliment that neutralizes the saltiness and overall intensity of the hard cheese.

Fresh strawberries and old Bordeaux – the fresh berries bring out the subtle strawberry fruit character of the wine. 

Goat cheese and Sauvignon Blanc - it is a passage to fine taste! 

Cedar plank Salmon and Pinot Noir - classic aromas of cedar, cinnamon, and cherry pair beautifully.

Champagne and Caviar – a bit hoity-toity in my opinion, but yes, this is a classic.

Tips, Tricks, and random Thoughts 

• The wine that you cook with should be similar in both quality and style to the wine that you serve.
• Ask the waiter if there is any wine in the dish… if so, I’d buy that same wine off the list if possible.  
• Dishes with strong citrus or vinaigrette flavour need a wine that is high in acidity. 
• An alternative vinaigrette salad dressing is to splash a little of the wine or some lemon juice on the salad instead. 
• A squeeze of lemon on foods will make full-bodied wines seem less oaky (it works for both white and red).
• Fatty or oily foods can become cloying with a heavy wine – try a more crisp/acidic wine instead. 
• Asparagus contains a naturally occurring sulphur component called methyl mercaptan which can lead to a metallic/tinny aftertaste.  Try Sauvignon Blanc or Gruner Veltliner.
• Hard cheeses generally pair with red wine while the soft creamy examples go with white.
• Avoid fortified wines with soft creamy textured cheeses like Brie or Camembert. Try Sauvignon, Chenin Blanc, Savenniéres, or even sparkling wine.
• A salty dish calls for wine with higher acidity. The salt will neutralize the acidity of the wine to bring out the flavour of both.
• Eggs mask the sense of taste.  The bubbles in the sparkling wine/Champagne will act to scrape the taste buds clean. 
• With tomato based sauce and pasta try wine with higher acidity to match the intensity of the dish:  Chianti, Barbera, Rioja Crianza, or Veneto. 
• Wonderful together ~> Roast chicken with Cru Beaujolais… 10 different crus to choose from. 
• Pairing with older wine:  Always have an understudy bottle, in case the first is corked. 
• Pairing with older wine:  Be careful not to overpower the delicacy of the wine with rich/spicy foods.
• When eating spicy food, try a clean, crisp white to refresh the palate. 
• There is a magical connection between Gewurztraminer and the ginger spice.
• Wines from ‘down-under’ pair surprisingly well with spicy Asian foods:  Try Australian Chardonnay, Semillion, or Gewurztraminer from New Zealand. 
• Dijon is at the top of the Burgundy’s great Côte d’Or.  Try pork tenderloin or baked ham with mustard glaze and a bottle Pinot Noir. 
• Stodgy old British men drink their Tawny Port chilled with a dish of walnuts.  Ultra cool Canadian bloggers drink it at room temperature paired with milk chocolate – Amazingly good ;)
• Champagne and eggs is another classic, though you may have bigger problems if you are drinking at 8am.  
• Protein-rich foods soften the tannin in wine.  That is why we generalize red wine with red meat.
• Ribs on the BBQ screams for Cali Zinfandel, Chilean Cab, or an Aussie Shiraz.  
• The taste of salt tends to mask the tannins in youthful red wine. 
• Creamy sauces need an acidic wine that will cut through the weight. Try Sauvignon, Alsacian Riesling or Pinot Gri(gio)

Try these! 

 ~>  PX (Pedro Ximénez) Sherry with Vanilla Ice Cream – incredible! 

 ~>  Black truffles with Aged Burgundy / White truffles with Old Barolo. 

 ~>  Smoked salmon and fino sherry.
 ~>  A single fresh raspberry and a mouthful of dry Prosecco - OMG!

 ~>  Dark chocolate and a big Cali Cab are magical.  

 ~>  Chateauneuf du Pape with lamb curry and fig chutney

Chocolate mousse and 20yr Tawny Port 

Pairings to Avoid 

• !  Despite popular belief, some Wine and Cheese combination do not pair well together: Smoked cheese is probably the most notorious and I'd avoid wine altogether here.  Stinky old and veined cheese is another problem child; for these, you need sweetness as a contrast.  Try Port, Sauternes, or Hungarian Tokaji.  
• !  When serving a very mature wine, be careful not to upstage it with a dish that is too agressive.
• !  Smoky foods and oaky wines can be too much together.  Try to avoid too much 'wood’ flavour. 
• !  The iodine in some fish such a mackerel, haddock and cod will react with the tannin structure of red wine to create a metallic taste.  Consider a fruity red or white instead.
• !  Very hot and spicy food paired with full-bodied, high-alcohol reds will increase the perception of heat on the palate.  Try lighter, fruit wines instead… or better yet, beer.
• !  High alcohol wine will emphasis the saline in salty food - exercise caution.
• !  Egg yolks coats the palate and restricts the sense of taste. Try sparkling wine to cleanse the palate. 

Pairing Tips for Vegetarians 

• The wine pairing depends on how you cook the vegetables… 
• Roasting and Grilling vegetables adds richness to the taste which will help tame the wine’s tannins.  
• Artichokes with wine are troublesome; they cause the wine to taste sweeter than expected.  Avoid reds and opt for a higher acidity dry Italian white instead.
• Consider mature wine over young. It will have less tannin structure, and won't overwhelm the dish. 
• Beans / lentils take you to the south of France.  Try a Languedoc or Roussillon red
• Raw/Steamed? Try a light-bodied white wine.
• Asparagus:  Sauvignon Blanc if served with vinaigrette, but unoaked Chardonnay if with cheese or hollandaise sauce. 
• Pinot Noir's lively acidity, Merlot's low tannins, or Beaujolais’ freshness are all vegetarian food friendly wines.

Pairing Saké

~>  In North American and European cultures, there is a world of pairing potential yet to be explored and existing just beyond the defined limits of wine.  Richard Auffrey is by far the best source for Saké knowledge that I am aware of.  Should you like to learn more about pairing food with Japan’s wonderful nihonshu, I strongly recommend that you pay him a visit at: Saké and Food

Wine Diamonds :: Corked wine or Flawed perception

Not long ago, at an upscale dining establishment on the outskirts of Aurora, Ontario, my wife and I were sitting together at a table in the corner enjoying a lovely bottle of Chianti with our bruschetta and pasta entrées.  Joia Ristorante is a great place to eat, and I think that perhaps we both feel a few years younger than we really are as we sit amongst the hustle and bustle of the waite staff watching people come and go.  But it’s fun to get dressed up, ditch the kids and hit the town for a great meal paired with a good bottle of wine. 

At the table adjacent to ours, a couple were engaged in a rather heated discussion with the waiter. Apparently, there were ‘bits of hard stuff’ stuck to the bottom of the cork from the bottle he had opened for them only moments before.  From my vantage-point, I was unable to identify the label on the bottle but judging by the body language and ensuing performance, it was clearly a finer choice on the wine list, which incidentally, one might mistake for an old leather-bound bible.  Within the coveted document, patrons are presented with a plethora of very fine (and expensive) choices.  But expensive wine also comes with an elevated expectation, which is perfectly acceptable – if you know what to look for.  Let’s put it this way:  a 15 year old bottle from France’s Côtes du Rhône will only vaguely resemble the recently harvested Aussie Shiraz that you opened last summer to sip poolside with the burgers in your backyard.  The challenge however, is that most patrons do not recognize how significantly a bottle of wine can change with time. ‘It’s flawed’ demanded the couple, and without even tasting the contents, ‘Take it away!’

One of the more fascinating aspects of the great transformation which occurs inside a bottle of wine is the concept of sedimentation. Save for a minute amount of oxygen transfer, the bottle is essentially a sealed environment and while nothing has entered or left the bottle, the composition of the contents has changed; in some cases rather significantly. Colour and tannin precipitate out of the liquid solution in the form of a powder-like sediment that collects in the bottle and this formation is both natural and inevitable the longer the bottle sits. During the winemaking process however, should the bottle not be subjected to cold stabilization (which I will explain shortly) a crystal-like mineral deposit may form and settle at the bottom or in some cases, adhere itself to the cork. Though formally known as Tartrates, these crystals are also referred to as Wine Diamonds.

Normally, the crystals are dull or colourless while on other occasions they remain bright and vibrant. What you are actually looking at is mineralized tartaric acid (potassium bitartrate crystals). It's harmless and contrary to popular belief, does not indicate a flawed bottle of wine. Wine diamonds develop only under certain conditions and are an indication of well made wine. Generally, the grapes used in the production of a wine which develops tartrates were allow to full ripen on the vine and thus contain a higher brix level (sugar content). Additionally, the fermentation process was not accelerated nor artificially tampered with to expedite the bottling process - hence, well made wine.

In North America, we don't readily accept unfiltered wine as the normal; simply put, people don't want bits of stuff floating about in their wine glass. To prevent this, the wine is filtered several times and in some cases, subjected to a process called 'Cold Stabilization' - it just sounds bad doesn't it? It's actually very straightforward: To prevent the formation of tartaric acid minerals in the bottle, winemakers rapidly cool the wine in a large stainless steel tanks. The sudden cold temperature causes the tartaric acid to precipitate out of the liquid and fall to the bottle of the vessel. The clear wine is then pumped or siphoned off the top for bottling or additional filtering, but here is the catch, for clarity does not come without cost... Purists, enthusiasts, and those who claim to taste the difference in terrior from one row of vines to the next will attest that cold stabilization and excessive filtration also strips a wine of its unique personality and the more you drink wine that has not been over-processed, the sooner you will realize that they just might be correct.

The next time you pop a cork, remember that what goes on inside a sealed bottle of wine is still one of life’s great mysteries.  Don’t be too quick to find fault with the contents if something is seemingly out of place.  And if you do discover a few diamonds in the rough, consider yourself very fortunate.

Cheers!

Château Figune-Poypourri

- Tasting a flight of 1986 Bordeaux

In a flurry of activity during one of our wine tasting events, at a point that seems like ages ago, a group of North of 9 tasters bought a mixed-bottle-lot of wine through the LCBO Fine and Spirits auction.  ‘Who wants in?’ someone shouted over the conversation in the room.  Of course my hand shot up, along with a few others who were caught-up in the moment.  And with the cheer that ensued, our online bid was successful. ‘What did we just buy?’  I curiously queried.  '86 Bordeaux,' someone exclaimed.  ‘Cool,’ I responded while attempting to redirect the focus back to our tasting session at hand.  

It’s been well over a year since that purchase and we’ve tried a few times to assemble a Bordeaux tasting party; you’d think that would be fairly straight forward considering the offering:  2^nd and 3^rd growth wines in the great 1855 classification.  But schedules and weather seem to play havoc with our plans each time and it has taken until this past weekend to gather the group.   

Stephen called me:  ‘Tyler, let’s put something together in March.’  Our lot of four bottles has sat entombed in Stephen’s cellar since the auction.  ‘I’ll host as well,’ he said.  And so on March 11^th, our gaggle of thirsty tasters descended upon Stephen and his wife Krista’s home for a lovely meal and an evening of ’86 Bordeaux.

A bottle of Moscato d’Asti and a delicious cheese tray welcomed the group before we dove into the old bottles of Bordeaux served alongside dinner for seven.  Breathing time in this case was not necessary though bottles of this age do contain a significant amount of sediment and therefore decanting is essential.  Removal of the capsules revealed moldy wet corks plus some evidence of possible seepage.  All but one cork slide out with relative ease, which presents a learning opportunity, if I may:  don’t talk when you unstop an older bottle; I was blabbering about something off topic and managed to snap one of the corks partway out – dislike is not a strong enough word; I hate it when that happens!    

The wines:

All 1986…

  Château Figeac

  Château La Lagune

  Château La Mission Haut Brion

  Château Leoville Poyferré

Dinner was peppercorn and herb crusted beef tenderloin with a side of duck and sausage cassoulet plus a selection of salads and vegetables that obscured the kitchen island.  A culinary delight for certain, though the pepper spice was perhaps a touch too bold for the delicacy of the 25 year old French wines; delicious nonetheless.

1986 Château Figeac - is a Right Bank wine that is structured like a ‘Left’ i.e. it is not Merlot dominated.  Delicate is the correct word here, in every respect; both the colour and body are beginning to fade, though still a wonderful wine to taste.  Aromas of cinnamon and cedar box; juicy on the palate with an interesting overripe apple finish. 

1986 Château La Lagune - a Third Growth in the 1855 Classification of Bordeaux and something that I have not tasted before.  It was similar to the Figeac though lusher, darker, and deeper?  Ripe berries with hints of both spice and sweetness – fantastic, and for me, the wine of the night. 

1986 Château Mission Haut Brion – Not part of the original Bordeaux Classification (Chateau Haut Brion is the only Graves label included), though most critics feel that ‘Mission’ is consistently on par with the five First Growths.  Unfortunately though, this sample was tainted with Brettanomyces (brett), an undesirable yeast that in the slightest presence, is actually quite pleasant, though when dominating, as in the case, it does pollute the wine with foul aromas of barnyard, band-aid, and metallic qualities – not good, and sadly, the wine that I though would shine the brightest this evening, was in fact flawed.  

1986 Château Leoville Poyferré – A Second Growth and always a pleasure to taste – today was no exception.  Cinnamon and cedar on the nose with dried cranberries and slightly sour raspberry quality; juicy with the perception of sweetness - lovely; a touch of brett perhaps, but this time it is welcome. 

We ranked the wines and voted for a favourite.  Everyone in attendance felt the Leoville Poyferré ranked as either their top or second wine while the runner up was the Chateau La Lagune. 

As many of you know by now, I like to deflate the gross pretension associated with drinking very fine wine.  I detest those who brag about the fancy bottles in their collection but are actually afraid to drink them: ‘What if it’s not ready…’ or ‘I need to know that my guests will appreciate wine of this calibre…’  blah blah blah – don’t waste my time; wine is meant to be enjoyed – period.  Pair it with good food and great friends and you cannot go wrong.  If the wine is ‘off’, learn from the moment.  And if you get 3 out of 4 good bottles, mix ‘em together and see what it tastes like.  That’s exactly what I did between dinner and dessert this evening - $500 Bordeaux Jungle Juice aka. Château Figune-Poypourri and blended to perfection, I might add - LOL! 

I really can’t imagine a better way to spend a Sunday evening. 

Sticky Whisky

I’ve hinted at this product a few times before in previous posts, even going so far as to serve the Canadian dessert beverage extravaganza at our North of 9 pairing dinners.  In terms of popular drinks here in Ontario, Sortilège is a concept that is just bubbling under the surface. In Québec, they clearly understand – eau de vie d'érable, brandy maple – this stuff is incredible!  I was at the Montreal airport last month where I always take a quick stroll though duty-free shop before departure.  There are normally several hundred bottles of Sortilège for sale.  This time though the shelves were empty.  Travellers and tourists from abroad had clean-out the stock and I am told that storekeepers are unable to keep up with the demand.  Yes, it is that good!

I first stumbled upon Sortilège in the late 90s while visiting Québec City.  The province of Québec tops Canada in terms of maple syrup production, but pancakes and French toast only hint at the potential uses for Mother Nature’s liquid gold.  The French folk next door also know their wine and spirits as well as any of us Anglophone types here in Ontario.  And in terms of gastronomic pleasure, they have combined the natural sweetness of maple syrup and the warmth of Canadian whisky to create a taste and textural sensation unlike anything else.

A flurry of adjectives cannot do this beverage justice – you must try it.  I know people who dribble it over ice cream, mix it into cocktails, and even lace their coffee with a dash.   The traditional way however, is to serve Sortilège at room temperature over the rocks in a lowball glass.  The chill of the ice dances across your palate as it flirts with the warmth of the alcohol and the intoxicating sweetness of the maple syrup – Fantastique! 

Until recently, I have travelled to Québec for the sole purpose of purchasing this drink.  Now it is sold here in Ontario at the LCBO for $29 in 750ml bottles for $6 less than in Québec!  I’ve linked this post to the product on the LCBO website below: simply select Find Stores, and go get it!  You’ll find it in the spirits section.

- You can thank me later.

SORTILÈGE 

Canada | Mondia Alliance

LCBO 250134 | 750 mL | $ 29.95

How to Host Your Own Wine Tasting

I find myself slightly envious of those who live downtown, surrounded by an endless supply of restaurants, patios, and other potential dining opportunities.  Need a glass of wine? Just text a friend and hook-up in, say 20 minutes at the bistro around the corner.   On occasion though, even these folks ask themselves: What would it take to host a wine tasting in my own home?

I’ll let you in on a little secret; it’s not that difficult.  Let me give you a few pointers, but first, some background:  I don’t live downtown.  In fact, I’m so far removed from the concrete jungle that modern amenities like fibre optic phone lines and natural gas are a figment of my imagination.  But rather than make the trek southbound to the urban sprawl for a regular dose of the wine tasting experience, I took it upon myself to recreate the same concept closer to home.  I call it North of 9 Fine Wine. 

Hosting a wine tasting in your own home or at a local restaurant does involve some preparation and planning. To simplify the process, I’ll break the many considerations down as a step-by-step checklist to ensure that we cover all the bases.  You needn't do everything listed below, but I do suggest a few details to maximize your tasting experience:


Planning:

• Choose a style of wine or a region that you wish to profile
• Pick a theme: stand-up and mingle or sit-down and focused
• How many people will attend? ____
• 1 standard bottle will serve 12 people a 2-ounce pour
• Food should always be available when alcohol is served (at the very least, a sliced baguette)
• Consider the legalities and liquor laws in your area

Preparation:

• Select 4 to 6 different labels to represent your theme
• Consider food pairings to compliment your wine choices
• If ranking the wines, provide grading sheets and pencils
• Select your stemware (something large enough to swirl but not too cumbersome to handle).  7 oz./200ml ISO tasting glasses cost ~ $4 each
• Consider separate glasses for each wine or one glass with a rinse station
• Provide wine charms if using one glass per person or use a paint marker to write each person’s name on the base of their glass.
• Labelled placemats will help keep multiple glasses organized
• Spittoons should be made available as an option
• Whites and sparkling wines may require ice buckets for chilling
• Provide drinking water in a separate glass or bottle
• Have a plan if someone has too much to drink i.e. a key bowl, taxi phone#

Presentation:

• Know your material
• As your guests arrive, consider serving a glass of sparkling wine.  The bubbly will give them something to discuss while you fine tune last minute details.
• Consider your crowd and set the tone: fun/informative or wine snobbery (there is a place for each)
• Reinforce the need to consume responsibly before you begin  
• Explain the basics (not everyone will be comfortable with the concept)
• Taste in order of dry to sweet and light to full bodied
• Consider the use of props such as decanters, various corkscrews, maps and literature related to your subject
• When finished, allow some social time between the last wine sample and your guests’ departure by offering tea, coffee, and a selection of baked goods.

Coordinating a wine tasting at an establishment outside of your home involves taking the concept to the next level and I recommend that you hire a BYOB licensed restaurant for the event.  Initially, the thought might seem intimidating but in actuality, much of pressure to perform is alleviated by leaving the food prep and wine service to the restaurant staff.   Consider reserving a small room for your group and rather than a large meal, prearrange several rounds of appetizers specifically chosen to pair with your wine selections.  As you conduct the tasting with the group, the staff will circulate with the food and wine which will make you look like a real hotshot! 

• Enjoy yourself and have some fun with it!  That’s why we drink the stuff in the first place.

~> Click here to Print/Download a copy of the Checklist 

Will this Wine Improve with Time?

That was exactly the question asked of me at an open-house party that my wife and I attended over the holidays.  To set the tone, the gentleman asking the question was a dead-ringer for Uncle Leo from Seinfeld.  Additionally, our friends recognize that I am fairly in tune to all things wine-related and on occasion like to experiment on me with something different.  I also happen to know that they purchase better bottles, so obviously there is little resistance on my part when offered a glass filled with a mysterious beverage.  

“Uncle Leo, let Tyler try a glass of your wine.” Our host shouted from across the room.

The operative word here is ‘your’, which at the time, I assumed to imply the old-timer stopped by the wine shop to purchase a special bottle for the party.  Nope, not the case, as I found out rather quickly; Uncle Leo crafts his own brew in the basement. 

Now I fancy myself a gentleman of sorts, and never criticise anyone that puts forth an honest effort, regardless of the subject.  Furthermore I never critique others for the wine that they choose to drink, though sometimes it can be difficult to control your facial expressions when caught off guard.  This was one of those times.  

By the way, why do short European men always get all puffed up when they are put on the defensive...

“You don’t like my wine, young man? I made it myself, you know.”

“Yes, I see that…” taking a precautionary step back. 

“This batch is not my best you know.  It’ll probably get better if I don’t drink it for a year or two.  What do you think?” 

Shit! If I say no, he’s gonna ask why.  “Ahh sure, why not?  I’m sure a little time won’t do it any harm.” 

By the end of the evening Uncle Leo was convinced that I was his nephew, we had pleasant conversations about topics ‘other than wine’, and managed to find equilibrium over a few mixed drinks.  On the way home my wife sarcastically summed up the whole event up with a single word – Nice!  And then went on to suggest that perhaps I could call and apologize the next day. 

The question asked by my retro-rerun friend was not completely out of place:  Will the wine improve with age?  And sarcasm aside, the answer is still no.  The reason however is a bit more complex.  Let us also clarify that nearly all wine available at the wine shop is meant for immediate consumption, and if kept it under reasonable storage conditions, it should remain drinkable for two, possibly even three years in better examples.  Beyond this timeframe and the composition of the contents will begin to breakdown resulting in a product that is strikingly similar to vinegar. 

Another very common mistake is to assume that because a wine is expensive, it must also be a candidate for long-term cellaring.  This is in fact not the case, and while most age-worthy wines are indeed costly by comparison, there are many pricey bottles that will not improve with time: a high-end Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand or an unoaked Chardonnay from anywhere (except perhaps some Chablis) is best consumed during its vibrant youth, as are the majority of wine products produced here in North America where soaring production costs also dictate higher price tags.  Of course exceptions to the rules will always exist and this subject would be rather mundane without variation, but in general, the following list will help you determine if a wine is worth cellaring: 

  Reds to hold

    Better Cabernet Sauvignon based blends                  

    Classed Growth Bordeaux        

    Grand & Premier Cru Burgundy  

    Better Rhône Syrah & blends                              

    Madiran                                  

    Amarone Classico                               

    Barolo

    Barbaresco Riserva                 

    Brunello di Montalcino 

    Premium Australian Shiraz                   

  Whites to hold

    Quality German Riesling

    Grand & better Premier Cru Burgundy

    Sweet wines and Botrytized

    Better Chenin Blanc from Loire

    White Hermitage

  Fortified Wine to hold

    Vintage Port

  Sparkling Wine

    High-end Champagne (as a matter of personal taste)

Logically, the next question is: for how long does one hold these bottles?  Between 3 and 5 years is normally more than adequate, though some products will continue to improve in the bottle and remain drinkable for well over a decade.  Factors that influence a wine’s ability to improve with age are grape variety, oak influence, residual sugar, and winemaking technique.  The thicker-skinned grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Nebbiolo, Tannat, and Syrah/Shiraz, to list a few, all contain higher amounts of the natural phenol compound known as tannin.  You will recall that leather is created by the process of tanning cowhide.  And while the same production method is not used to make wine, we can certainly draw a parallel between the two.  The bitterness of the grape pips will also contribute to the tannic structure of a wine as will the stems if they are left attached during the crush.  Should the winemaker elect to press the grape clusters whole, the resultant wine will naturally adopt a higher degree of astringency. 

As you research your next wine purchase, consider if the winemaker has used French, American, or Slovenian oak barrels.  Each will impart different flavours, aromas, and phenolic compounds to the wine. Are the barrels new or previously used?  New oak has a much greater influence than that which is on its second or third run.  Perhaps the wine was crafted in stainless steel vats with oak chips added to create the illusion of wood influence.  New French oak barrels can cost as much as $1000 each.  These factors will not only affect the style and ageing potential of a given wine, but its retail price as well.

If a winemaker allows or elects to stop the fermentation early, the wine produced will retain a degree of natural sweetness.  Residual sugar also acts as a preservative and we recognize one example of this style as late harvest or Spätlese Riesling.  In better years, the same effect is also found in the wines of Vouvray, a product of the Chenin Blanc grape in France’s Loire Valley.  Botrytis affected wines such as Sauternes, Barsac, and Tokay, plus those labelled Beerenauslese or Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) will all age indefinitely. Well-made Icewine/Eiswein also has the potential for long-term cellaring.

Reduced time spent in contact with the grape skins (maceration) after the crush means that white wine does not inherit the same degree of phenolic compounds as its red counterpart. And while oak influence will add tannin structure to the wine, it is the fruit's natural acidity that acts as the preserving agent in this case.

Storing your best bottles will not preserve the wine in its present state: With additional age, the colour component of red wine, along with any bitter tannins will slowly begin to fade.  At the same time, the fresh fruit flavours diminish to take on more of a dried component – think fresh raspberries versus dried cranberries. Additionally, new earth-driven aromas such as mushrooms and forest floor may develop adding an element of complexity to the equation.  White wine becomes deeper in colour, developing honeyed and butterscotch notes along with softer tropical flavours such as mango and papaya over citrus zest.  In some examples, solvent or petrol aromas evolve which force any freshness to take a back seat.  For many of us, this just screams excitement and discovery, but if you typically gravitate toward jammy Cali fruit-bombs and crisp, clean whites, ‘tasting with time’ may take a little practice and getting used to.

 

Can I suggest that you stop by your local wine shop to purchase an example of both an older red and white wine?  It might cost you a little extra but I’ll bet the lasting effect will be worth significantly more.  

Enjoy!