Cellaring wine - an acceptable margin of error

Rarely do I plan these articles and stories; the motivation tends to materialize without warning - and this latest tale of exploration is no exception. 

During an impromptu visit with friends in the city, I found myself standing in their wine cellar for a tour and discussion of bottle storage.  I never decline the opportunity to visit a cellar; big or small, modern or old, be it adorned with custom cabinetry or plastic milk cartons, I am enthralled by the storage techniques that people employ for their personal collection of treasured bottles.

The home and subject of this discussion is stunningly tasteful, decorated in a mix of modern, classical, and Victorian styles.  Care and well-thought planning have obviously gone into every square foot of this 130-year-old home nestled in the heart of the Toronto’s historic Annex district.  As the ladies venture in the one direction for a walk-about of the couples' latest and extensive renovations upstairs, the gentlemen make their way below ground level for a conversation on wine preservation. 

Tiled floors accent a clean line of white cabinetry at the base of the stairs as we make our way toward a half-lit thermal door installed between the basement living area and the wine cellar itself. Opening the door reveals a cold storage room now tastefully converted with wooden bottle racking that stands approximately five feet high spanning the width of the area. We casually chat about the old foundation, its exposure to the sun, and the grade level outside the sunken window.  To my surprise, the owner recalls a natural earth floor beneath what is now a clean concrete slab.  ‘Dirt in a wine cellar is a magical thing’ and in hindsight, my host is well aware that given the option, to pour concrete – or any other sealed product over the natural surface, is likely a planning oversight.  A natural floor maintains a balance within the cellar by slowly adding to and removing humidity from the air while preserving the cool cavernous climate.  You might wish to weigh the pros and cons carefully before covering up such a modest luxury.  Most wine enthusiasts can only dream of dirt-under-foot and must opt instead for a climate controlled room to house their best bottles. If you fall into this group, there are several custom cellar contractors that are certainly worth looking up.

The collection today is a tasteful mix of the old world and new.  A hundred bottles of French, Spanish, and Italian labels plus a selection of North American wines catch my eye as I glance across the symmetrical racks. Several examples are now ready to drink; others do not require aging, while a select few will certainly benefit from additional time on their sides.  In essence, this well-planned cellar will serve a wide range of entertainment needs for many years.

As we chat, I can't help but notice and inquire about a large dehumidifier, coiled hose, and extension cord pushed off the side of the small room.  The explanation I receive for the presence of this equipment is the reason for this post.

"A wine expert friend," my host recalls, "says that a cellar must remain at 60% relative humidity and the temperature held at a constant 14˚C."

There are two ways to address a statement like this.  The first is to say nothing in response; this collection of wine is in good hands and will certainly mature without concern or fault.  The other train of thought is to off-load this dedicated enthusiast who is obviously on the right track but has unknowingly placed undue concern upon a concept that was mastered long before the invention of vapour barriers, weather-stripping, and supplemental climate control.

Let us first touch on humidity: in terms of a bottle's evolution, there is no ‘maximum’ level of humidly.  You cannot harm a bottle of wine by storing it in an excessively humid location.  Levels above 80% will eventually cause discolouration of the labels but no harm will ever come to the contents of the bottle, provided the cork does its job.  The possibility of mould development in your home as a result is another subject that I won’t touch in this discussion. At the opposite end of the humidity spectrum, bottle storage in a very dry location for anything greater than six months will eventually result in the failure of the cork's seal.  Stelven closures (screw caps) are immune to the effects of humidity. Bottles sealed under natural cork however, should remain ideally within the range of 55 - 75%.

The use of a dehumidifier in your cellar is nothing short of inconvenient.  Not only does the unit require daily attention if direct drainage is not possible, but the machine itself generates constant heat while running.  Should your cellar environment also necessitate some form of supplemental cooling, that system must now work even harder to maintain an ideal temperature.

On the subject of temperature, the ideal range for a wine cellar is 11-13˚C / 52-55˚F. Any warmer and the wine will simply evolve faster – arguably with less style and grace. The colder end of the spectrum slows the essential physical transformation, eventually stunting the bottle’s development completely as you encroach on the freezing mark. The need to respect temperature is frequently misunderstood and I will reiterate that seasonable changes that occur gradually over several weeks are of no concern whatsoever.  Rapid changes, on the other hand, are your bottles’ worse enemy.  An example might be a sudden spike, to say 20˚ degrees on a hot day, plummeting again to 10 or 12˚ overnight.  The contents of the bottles will expand and contract in response to the environmental changes, but the silent victim in each case is the cork, as it struggles to maintain the airtight seal against its glass-walled neighbour. Eventually the elasticity of the stopper will succumb to the constant state of flux and the wine may seep from the bottle. Of greater concern is that oxygen may in turn replace the evaporated contents.

In an ongoing effort to relieve some of the stress associated with buying, storing, and consuming fine wine, I would like to summarize the idea of storage by stating that if you plan to drink your wine in the next 30 days, store it wherever you like (within reason).  If you buy by the case but intend to consume within six months to a year, don't sweat the small stuff. Keep these bottles in a cool, dark location and enjoy them at your leisure.  Better bottles purchased for long-term storage do need an extra element of care:  lay these bottles on their side, in a place where they can evolve without interruption.  Follow the temperature and humidity guidelines above while recognizing the need for a dark, odourless, and vibration-free environment as well.  This will greatly increase the potential for enjoyment as you open these old treasures many years later.

Should you still feel that cellaring wine necessitates the need for laboratory-like conditions, I invite you to entertain the thought of how wine was stored only 50 years ago.  If you are still unconvinced, I’ll invite you to my place for dinner and pour you a 15-year-old bottle that has witnessed more storage sins than I care to admit.  My gradually fluctuating cobweb-crusted stone cavern has yet to disappoint.

For more information on wine cellaring see also:  An Investment in Taste

The Riesling Doctor

- As written by T.Philp and published in the summer 2012 edition of the King Tapestry

On the ziggurat of white wine greatness there are many plateaus.  The top spot however is reserved for a matter of personal preference – and for many, that element of vinous superiority is none other than Chardonnay.  I rest with one foot firmly planted in this camp, while the other travels the world making regularly stops on the banks of the Mosel River. 

Riesling is the ‘other’ white grape; it has been for centuries and likely always will be.  Cut from a different cloth than the white knight of Burgundy, Riesling is of greater purity – arguably.  Foregoing the influence of oak, it projects an individuality and clarity unique to the variety.  The word used to describe a wine’s uniqueness of place is terroir, though when discussing Riesling I also like to include the term transparency.   Riesling leaves little to the imagination and nature dictates the character of the resultant wine.  Better winemakers will do little to tamper with this process.   

Riesling is successfully grown throughout the world, but unlike many of the warmer climate varieties, these vines excel in cooler growing regions.  The banks of the Mosel in Germany and France’s great Alsace lead the world in quality Riesling (though differing styles) while honourable mentions go to several other regions including Australia and our very own Niagara peninsula.  The focus today however, is on a plot of land that experts of the vine unanimously consider the source of the purest and most expressive Riesling in the world. 

Before I introduce the wine, let’s discuss a few theoretical points; for greatness usually comes at the expense of simplicity:

German QmP (Qualitätswein mit Prädikat) standards dictate the classification of the wine based on the natural sugar content (brix level) of the grapes at harvest. Logically, the longer the grapes are allowed to ripen, the higher the brix level.  At this level, chaptalization (the addition of sugar) is not allowed and the resultant wines can range from bone dry to the ultra-sweet nectar of the Gods known as Beerenauslese.

Listed below by increasing levels of brix are the various grades of German QmP wine:

    Kabinett ¦ Spatlese ¦ Auslese ¦ Beerenauslese ¦ Trockenbeerenauslese

* It is important to note that higher brix does not necessarily dictate a sweeter wine.  The first three levels of the QmP, if allowed, will ferment until fully dry. Ascending through the levels, German Riesling becomes richer in both flavour and intensity.   

The Legend of the Doctor vineyard

Just as Bordeaux has its First Growths and Burgundy its Grand Cru plots, Riesling has its legendary vines as well.  ‘The story goes’ that in the 13^th century, the Archbishop of Trier was passing through the Mosel Valley when he became deathly ill.  After countless failed attempts to cure his ailing health, he was offered a glass of Riesling as a form of comfort during his final days.  Miraculously, after drinking the wine, his health was quickly regained.  From that point on, the vines on the steep slopes above the village of Berncastel that produced his miracle cure were renamed ‘The Doctor’…  Sounds like a bad case of the flu to me but it does make a good story nonetheless.

The entire Doctor vineyard measures only 8.1 acres in total and is comprised of century old vines that existed before the devastating phylloxeria louse decimated nearly every grape vine in Europe at the end of the 19^th century.  The vines have a root structure that extends over 10 metres below the surface of the vineyard which is said to be most expensive agricultural land in Germany.  The question remains: are the vines of Berncastel’s Doctor actually responsible for the greatest expression of Riesling in the world? 

‘The Doktor’ has stained my mind on a few occasions now, at various levels of the QmP, and most recently via a bottle of '09 Kabinett. 

2009 Dr. H. Thanisch - Erben Müller-Burggraef, Berncasteler Doctor, Riesling Kabinett

If you thought the name was a mouthful, you really ought to try the wine.  The deep yellow colour might cause one to mistake this for a much older bottle.  Aromas of peach leap from the glass to reveal notes of spiced honey, apricot, and hints of almond extract – Initial impressions have me questioning the Kabinett (first harvest) status – and tasted blind I would likely label this a Spatlese wine; evidently all Kabinett is not created equal. Incidentally, the origin of the term kabinett dates back to when German winemakers held on to a few of their best bottle for personal consumption.  These prized bottles were stored in the winemakers own ‘cabinet’.  On the palate, this wine redefines the definition of balance.  Nothing is out of place: sweetness, acidity, and body all resonate in luxurious harmony with no one note projecting its tone above the others.  Sensations of ripe red apple, juicy Bartlett pear, and hints caramel on the finish define the flavour profile beautifully.  This is a truly fantastic wine and when compared to a label of comparable quality from the Chardonnay camp, the ’09 Thanisch, Berncasteler Doctor is an unimaginable bargain at $42.  

A wine like this will change the way you view the sea of Riesling on the store shelves.  If you do manage to locate a bottle or two, I strongly recommend that you do not hesitate. 

Dinner at the Ritz - a tale of questionable taste

- As written by T.Philp and published in the autumn 2012 edition of Footprints magazine

Across an otherwise empty room, I curiously watch as a dinner party of eight well-dressed guests orchestrate a flurry of circulating wait staff.  Dinner at the famous Hôtel Ritz was a priority for Jacquie and I while in Paris several years ago, and so dressed to the nines along with my lovely wife, we take our places at a romantic table for two in the grand dining room.  

Our intent was to stay the night, in one of the hotel’s famous rooms that lie just beyond the Hall of Temptation.  This seemingly endless corridor is home to numerous objects of desire including rare jewels, designer garments, and assorted artifacts.  Each item is locked just out of reach, within the flanking rows of glass display cases.  Those with bottomless pockets or a gross lack of self-control are more than welcome to purchase these treasures.  For Jac and me, the sight was enough to fuel our sense of imagination for many years to come.  

My profession had me displaced in France, teaching British clients who would make the short commute from the Channel Islands each day.  I had my own flat in the city and a car at my disposal.  The arrangement also stipulated that the company would fly Jacquie from Toronto to Paris once per month for a short visit.  This particular occasion was her first time in the historic city but unfortunately work had thrown a wrench in to my plans to spend our anniversary at the Ritz.  Instead, we settled for afternoon tea in the garden and a dinner not soon forgotten.   

The events of this evening occurred at a point when my knowledge of wine was only beginning to blossom.  I knew enough to recognize the intricate actions and proceedings of the sommelier, but in truth, I failed to understand the significance of the wine.  I have also replayed this evening in my mind a thousand times, to the point where the truth is greatly obscured.  The reason for the constant need to recall this event is purely out of fascination and perhaps an element of hindsight.  Let me explain… 

From our table we could easily enjoy the uninterrupted ambience of this legendary establishment and yet remain close enough to keep tabs on the high-price patrons across the room.  After a round of cocktails, our first course arrived.  Judging by the presentation and taste, nothing at the Ritz is second best.  Even the linen serviettes were embroidered and pressed to perfection - I nabbed one as a souvenir.  

The sommelier resurfaced with what appeared to be a very old and dust covered bottle from the cellar.  He presented the label to the host of the party across the room and then carefully placed the bottle in its basket back on to his guerdon.  We watched in awe as the contents trickled from the bottle into a flask by way of an old hand-crank decanting cradle, a procedure that to this day I have only witnessed on this occasion.  The sommelier sampled the wine and then continued to pour a taste for the host’s approval.  This was obviously a very special bottle and certainly a rare occasion for his fortunate group.  I sat in envy. 

To the shock of the entire table and a slightly defensive stance from the highly trained wine steward, the gentleman hosting the dinner party turned the bottle away. 

Declining a bottle of wine is a perfectly acceptable practice.  Unfortunately though, most people do it for the wrong reasons.  If the bottle is not what you asked for or it is flawed, i.e. it tastes like vinegar or smells of sulphur or wet cardboard, you should return it.  In fact, most knowledgeable staff at better restaurants won’t even present the sample taste if they suspect that the bottle’s contents are in question.  Understand as well, that if the wine does not suit your ‘personal taste’, it is very poor etiquette to send it back.  Over time, the pronounced fruit character of wine begins to fade, giving way to more earth driven sensations such as leather, cedar, and spice box to name a few.  In terms of colour, white wine takes on a deeper hue while all reds become less vibrantly so.  Needless to say, when the host of the party in question turned this particular bottle away, the conversation at the waiters’ station and within earshot of our table became unquestionably direct. 

My limited knowledge of the French language at the time posed no barrier to the situation; the tone of their voices told the entire story. The wine was Chateau Petrus; the vintage, I will never know, but when our waiter stopped by to replenish our water glasses, I inquired about the obvious concern across the room.  Was the wine flawed? I asked.  His response while cautious was also quite honest:  ‘No monsieur, the wine is perfect; the bottle is just very old.’  ‘An expensive loss, I’m sure.’ I commented.  ‘Yes,’ he replied, ‘it sells for over 5000 euros (francs at the time) and is the last example of that label in our cellar.’ 

The staff quickly cleared the still full decanter and empty bottle from the table and curiously left it with a gentleman sitting just out of our view – the owner perhaps? Mr. Al-Fayed… he was with another person, with whom he shared the deeply scarred wine.  

The loss of revenue in a situation like this does not bother me; hotels of this calibre make money hand-over-fist. Rather, I am dismayed by the obvious arrogance and wasted opportunity for this group to taste what others might only dream of enjoying. 

We finished our meals and wandered through the hotel before strolling under the streetlights along rue Saint-Honoré, stopping of course to see the famous chocolate waterfall.  Many years have past since this memorable evening and yet on occasion, I am still able to recall the sequence of events.  

The facts have become rather twisted over time and as I relive the story late at night, my mind slipping further into the subconscious, the tale evolves with an alternate ending.  You see, I have tasted this wine on countless occasions.  Our waiter that evening was perceptive enough to sense our keen interest and enthusiasm and kindly offered us each a single glass of the great Château Petrus…1945.  On each occasion, the vintage elixir has exceeded all of my expectations and to this day remains the greatest wine ever to stain my imagination.   

Reasons to reject a bottle of wine

- Not the requested label or vintage
- Signs of seepage upon presentation
- Pronounced aroma of barnyard or wet cardboard
- Other aromatic faults including onion, rubber, matchstick, rotten eggs
- Excessive oxidation indicated by the smell of cooked fruit or discolouration in a young wine

Champagne - a tour of styles

While most people still reserve a glass of Champagne or sparkling wine for New Year’s Eve and the occasional toast while out for dinner, you really don’t need a formal reason to pour yourself a glass of bubbly.  In fact, Champagne is one of the most food friendly and versatile wines available.  I encourage you to sip bubbles just for the shear pleasure of the experience. 

Sparkling wine is made throughout the world, but the name Champagne is reserved only for the wines from France’s chilly northern wine making region of the same name.  The following guide will clarify a few Champagne related terms that you might come across as you wander through the bubbly section of your local wineshop.

In accordance with the French Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée – AOC (a concept similar to Canada’s VQA system), only certain grape varieties are permitted in the production of Champagne.  Each grape imparts a different character trait to the wine and the three that you are most likely to come across are list below:

·     Chardonnay (white) – Finesse and Elegance

·     Pinot Meunier (red) – Body and Richness

·     Pinot Noir (red) – Fruitiness

The term Blanc-de-Blanc will appear on the label to indicate that only Chardonnay was used in the making of the wine.  And while less common, Blanc-de-Noirs signifies when the wine is made using only Pinot Noir and/or Pinot Meunier, both dark-skinned grapes. 

There are several terms used to describe Champagne but these are the most common styles:

·     Brut (natural) is dry wine

·     Sec (dry) is actually off-dry wine

·     Demi-Sec (half dry) is slightly sweet wine

The term Brut implies a dry crisp wine, whereas Sec and Demi-Sec show increasingly more sweetness and body. The vast majority of Champagne and sparkling wines produced and those which are available at the LCBO are dry (Brut).  Incidentally, all Champagne is fermented dry; it is the addition of the dosage (a mixture of cane or beet sugar and wine) that balances the wine’s natural acidity and dictates the final degree of sweetness.  

Vintage vs. Non-Vintage Champagne:

Using a process known as assemblage, Champagne is normally a blend (cuvee) of vintages and therefore in theory the wine should always taste the same.  Let us not forget that the climate in the north of France is not exactly conducive to the growth of grapes and therefore bad vintages are more frequent than not.  For this reason, the blending of vintages is essential to create a consistent product from one year to the next.    

Vintage Champagne on the other hand is actually the oddball and as the name states, these wines contain only the must from the specified year on the label and are produced only in top vintages.  If you have grown accustom to a particular taste from your favourite Champagne house, their vintage bottling may seem a bit ‘different’ at first.  

Delaying the run-off of the crushed grape juice (must) and separation from the Pinot Meunier and/or Pinot Noir skins will result in a slight red stained wine – we know this as Rosé Champagne. 

In terms of cellaring potential, Champagne is ready to drink when you buy it.  Though like many other high quality wines, a year or two spent in the bottle will allow the wine’s potential hard edges to soften. High-quality Champagne will evolve from lively, citrusy, and fresh toward a creamy richness after 5-10 years in the cellar becoming fully mature as it approaches 15-20 years of age.  Any longer, and the bubbles begin to dissipate.  Additionally, and since the CO₂ within the bottle maintains an adequate degree of moisture, Champagne and sparkling wines need not lie on their sides.  You can store your bubbly bottles upright while you wait for the wine to age.

When serving Champagne and contrary to common practice, the cork should be removed carefully and without a great froth of bubbles.  Simply put: a great deal of effort went in to putting the bubbles into the wine, let’s not waste then on the ‘pop’.  Unless of course, you have just won the Grand Prix – then ‘shake and spray’ everyone around you!

“Champagne is from Champagne.  Bubbles from elsewhere, however good, cannot be called Champagne.”

-Hugh Johnson   

How to open a bottle of bubbly with style - Champagne Sabering video

These are a few of my favourite things

Each December, I like to assemble a selection of wines tasted over the last year. For one reason or another, these labels have left me speechless with a glass in one hand and a corkscrew in the other. It may have been a moment of discovery, an unimaginable bargain, or a bottle that quite simply knocked my socks off!  I don't place a price on pleasure and thus the labels listed below range significantly across the spectrum.  Incidentally, any one of these bottles will add a touch of class to your holiday festivities this month.  

I would like to wish you a very happy and safe holiday.  Drink lots of wine and share your  best bottles with those who are closest to you.

To quote Andre Simon, “Wine makes every meal an occasion, every table more elegant, every day more civilized.”

LILLET BLANC
VINTAGES 322297 | 750 mL bottle

Bordeaux, France

$15.25

A blend of Sauvignon and Semillon from the vines of Bordeaux mixed with a shot of brandy and delicately packed with personality.  Tastes of peach, apricot, and a touch of orange rind bitterness; creamy on the mid-palate; refreshing, and everlasting.  Advertised, as an aperitif but this will also work with light desserts. You’ll crave another sip.  Serve well chilled.

2010 CHÂTEAU DE GALIFAY CAIRANNE CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES
VINTAGES 290080 | 750 mL bottle 

Rhône, France

$17.00

Located just over an hour from the Mediterranean Sea, Cairanne is the western-most village in the Côtes du Rhône Villages appellation. This outstanding Grenache based blend shows aromas of strawberry and sweet spices.  Medium bodied and uplifting with hints minerality followed by a core of plum sweetness that lasts through to the finish.  Sip it solo or with tapas on the side.

ESTATE HATZIMICHALIS CHARDONNAY
LCBO 269654 | 750 mL bottle 

Greece

$14.95

Not that I have any sort of issue with Greek wine, but this one really caught me by surprise. Captivating from the first whiff to the very last sip. Floral delicacy with subtle tropical aromas but in no way aggressive.  Just a hint of effervescence and oak lead to an uplifting and highly refreshing taste – you’ll enjoy this! 

2006 MONTECILLO RESERVA
LCBO 621003 | 750 mL bottle 

Rioja, Spain

$18.55

To be classified as Rioja Reserva, the wine must age for 3 years, of which one must be spent in oak prior to release for sale.  The wood softens the wine while at the same time adding a degree of complexity to the equation and this example is textbook.  Balance is key (the wood can overpower) and Montecillo has achieved perfect harmony in their 2006.  Red fruit abounds:  raspberry and cherry; a touch of smoke; the oak is present but in no way intrusive; perhaps just a hint of caramel - lovely.  I’ve paid much more for wine of this quality; the tannins are like velvet with a juicy sweet core and a lingering finish – is one bottle enough? 

ELDERTON COMMAND SINGLE VINEYARD SHIRAZ 2005
VINTAGES 716142 | 750 mL bottle

Barossa, Australia

$89.95

This wine ranks at #6 on my top 10 list of all-time favourite bottles.  I've included it here for a couple of reasons:  one, we opened it just the other day and I can still taste it!  And secondly, because on occasion you can still stumble upon a bottle of the '05 vintage on the store shelves. This wine (in my very critical opinion) is the perfect bottle of Shiraz molded in the finest new-world style.

Sourced from 1894 Shiraz plantings of a single estate owned 8 acre block. It spends 3 years in 100% new oak: 65% American, 35% French.   Super-concentrated, rich and almost viscous, it coats your senses with chocolate, ripe currants, and cassis. But it was the mix of raspberry tart and black pepper on the finish that won me over - a fantastic wine!  Decant 1-2 hours before serving. 

VEUVE CLICQUOT DEMI SEC CHAMPAGNE
LCBO 38307 | 750 mL bottle

Champagne, France

$71.20

This is not the popular Clicquot but I think it is the better one. Demi-Sec means half-dry or semi-sweet. Expect citrus notes, toasted almonds, and a smooth mouth feel. Nicely balanced; this is exceptional Champagne and it goes well as a dessert compliment or even all on its own.

SORTILÈGE
LCBO 250134 | 750 mL bottle

Quebec, Canada

$29.95

French-Canadian Maple Whisky!  A flurry of adjectives cannot do this beverage justice – you must try it.  I know people who dribble Sortilège over ice cream, mix it into cocktails, and even lace their coffee with a dash.  The traditional way however, is to serve Sortilège at room temperature over the rocks in a lowball glass.  The chill of the ice dances across your palate as it flirts with the warmth of the alcohol and the intoxicating sweetness of the maple syrup – Fantastique!  

GRAHAM'S 20 YEAR OLD TAWNY PORT
LCBO 620641 | 500 mL bottle

Portugal

$36.95

This is really nice tawny and the 500ml bottle is perfect for sitting by the fire with your sweetie! There is an initial orange rind bite that some people like in their port (I don't) but it smooths out beautifully in the glass after a few minutes. And if there is any left the next day, it tastes like the Graham's 30 which is absolute perfection in a bottle if you ever have a chance to buy one.  Try this tawny at room temperature with milk chocolate.

A final thought before I leave you to make a mad dash for the wine shop...

“Few people have intellectual resources sufficient to forgo the pleasures of wine. They could not otherwise contrive how to fill the interval between dinner and supper.”

― Samuel Johnson

Boswell's Life of Johnson

Have a Wonderful Holiday

a ghost in the bottle

The longer you spend exploring the subject of fine wine, the more familiar you become with the concept that there are no great wines but only great bottles, and that with every great bottle comes an even greater story - I have one to share…  

For my wife Jacquie’s 40^th birthday celebration, I bought two bottles of the 1970 Marqués de Murrieta, Castillo Ygay, Gran Reserva.  The Spanish claim that 1970 was their vintage of the century and those who are fond of this region also recognize that Castillo Ygay is the flagship of Rioja. I have read about this wine for years and over time collected it in more recent vintages, but to stumble upon the great 1970 vintage and coincidently that of Jacquie’s birth year was an opportunity impossible to pass-up.  Considering the vintage and the occasion, I’ll refer to this bottle as ‘well aged’.  Traditionally, the Spanish age their best wine in oak vats for the better part of a decade and in some cases, much longer.  The time spent in contact with the wood adds tremendous flavour and complexity to the wine while over time softening its hard edges. The 1970 Castillo Ygay had spent an astonishing 26 years in oak casks prior to bottling. 

We chose to celebrate at Bistro Seven Seven, in Alliston – just the two of us, as a surprise group of close friends gathered upstairs.  I’ll admit that I was just as excited about tasting the Castillo Ygay as I was to see Jacquie’s reaction upon discovering her friends in the room above.

With the arrival of our entrées, our server opened the bottle.  The cork slid out almost effortlessly and we agreed that decanting a ‘well aged’ wine might be detrimental to its potential pleasure and therefore we poured straight from the bottle. If fine wine is truly half drink and half atmosphere, could this moment have been any closer to perfection?  The Ygay spilled smoothly into our glasses, first Jacquie’s then mine and within seconds, the wine’s aroma exploded, filling the room with dark fruit and earthy notes.  By now, the group quietly gathering above us was the furthest thought from my mind.  Instead, this was all about sharing an incredible bottle with my beautiful wife.  Seated across the room, an elderly couple curiously stared, I think with equal anticipation; perhaps I should offer them a taste as well – maybe later... 

With time, a fine wine can also become quite fragile, so imagine the shock when suddenly oxygen is reintroduced to the equation after 40 years.  Sealed within a time capsule for almost four decades, the 1970 Castillo Ygay was not only intriguing, but also somewhat of a risk to open on such a special occasion.  It is not unusual for ‘well aged’ wines to fall flat very quickly once the cork is drawn, but we were fortunate this evening: the colour of the Ygay was surprisingly deep and had I not known otherwise, I might have guessed it from the mid ‘90s.  The wine's aroma was absolutely breathtaking, but to taste such a rarity, even more so.  On the palate, the sensation was of velvet; full bodied but not jammy - just the right amount of fruit followed by a lingering touch of spice. As far as I was concerned, the Castillo Ygay was bottled perfection.  But as we would soon find out, it was also the first turn in a rather twisted road.

After approximately 20 minutes, Ryan, our host poured the remaining contents from the flask.  As he filled our glasses for the second time, Jacquie said she felt a rush of cold air.  I did too.  In fact, it was enough to make us both shiver momentarily.  “Are you okay?” Ryan asked.  “Didn’t you feel that?” I exclaimed.  “Someone probably just opened the front door, it’s cold out there tonight.” he reassured us.  The couple dining across from us had left some time before though I don’t recall seeing them leave; I must have been engrossed by the meal. Just as well I suppose, for with the second pour, the great Rioja had faded completely and in no way reflected the experience we had just enjoyed.  Instead, the wine was sour and rather unpleasant.  Strange, I thought, the first glass remained perfect to the last drop.  Why should the wine within the open bottle be any different?   

The second half of our evening was about to unfold as Ryan convinced Jacquie to see some fictitious renovation underway on the second floor; a story we invented the day before.  Making our way upstairs to unveil the big surprise, something caught my eye causing me to glance back at our table. I hesitated for a moment but all that remained were the two wine glasses and the spirit of a once great bottle. Otherwise, the room was empty.  As for the sudden chill in the air, when asked if someone had just opened the front door, another waiter replied “No, apart from the group upstairs, you two are our only guests so far this evening…”

The Tuscan Transition

Switching gears after a fantastic adventure in France, I am refocusing my attention on the great wines of Italy.  Several functions this month have my creative juices running on overdrive. Firstly, I am conducting a tutored tasting for a private group of 20 and they've asked for an Italian theme. For that, I'm thinking Presecco, Orvieto, Barbera, Barolo, and Amarone.  The evening is sure to be a memorable event.

Additionally, I'll be the guest host on Twitters WineChat at 9 pm on November 28th where we are talking Super Tuscan wines in the most informative, action-packed, and welcoming environment imaginable - join us if you can!  

I've also just renewed my writing agreement with Oakville's online newspaper for another six month run. Do take a moment to visit the site at Oakville.com where you can read about the history of Chianti and the impact of the Super Tuscan phenomenon on that region.

Cheers,

Tyler

Link to Oakville.com

Burgundy – exploring the Côte d’Or, part one

On a recent trip to Burgundy in France I found myself on a voyage of both exploration and reflection.  My need to understand this complex wine region extends well beyond what others have written or what my own tasting notes reflect. In order to explain the complexity of Burgundy to enthusiastic newcomers, one must stand at the foot of these great vineyards and stare upon the contour of the land, watch the clouds as they form over the tree-topped hills, and touch the stone-walled cellars that have held bottles for centuries of passing vintages. The trip was truly an enlightenment of wine fascination and as a friend pointed out after the fact, a pilgrimage.

I enjoy wine from every grape growing region in the world, some more than others but I also appreciate the variations in aroma, body, and taste that each country and region has to offer. Occasionally that difference is rather blatant, other times less so, but in every example it is (or should be) unique. This constant variable is what has kept me motivated.  If all wines were to taste the same, I'd likely drink something else - or figure out how to make my own.

The region that I continually gravitate toward is the Côte d'Or in France.  The 'Golden Slope' is the main body of Burgundy and its Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are my choices for dinner more often than not.

Burgundy is a place that in terms of both theory and taste, I know very well.  But in order to satisfy my own sense of fulfillment, I feel compelled to visit the source of these wines, to walk along the twisted vineyard roads, taste the fruit straight from the vine, and sample local wines as I make my way from one village to the next.

For the same reason that people are drawn to the mysteries of Stonehenge, China's Great Wall, or Easter Island in the south Pacific, I was looking for answers to a number of questions:   What is it that makes this place unique? Could it just be a gross exaggeration as a result of perception?  Why should I or anyone else pay such a premium to enjoy it?

I found the answers that I was looking for plus a few more along the way and I'd like to share my thoughts and observations with you over the next couple of posts.

Thinking back to a little over a decade ago, I too was discouraged by Burgundy's complex label language, classification system, and degree of vintage variation. The region is a double-edged sword of sorts; to the serious wine enthusiast it might represents vinous perfection, but as a new comer, the labels are next to impossible to understand and if you dare to 'cheap-out' on your purchase, disappointment is certain. Unfortunately that disappointment often leads to discouragement which in terms of wine selection tends to guide people back to the path of least resistance i.e. Australia, California, and the slopes of South America.

So why bother?  In my case, the need to explore the unknown will always demand immediate attention.  Your attraction to this place and its wine may be entirely different.

My first experience with Burgundy was highly atypical, somewhat lucky, and extremely positive; it involved a bottle of 1999 Vosne-Romanée.  The bottle, while seemingly impressive, was an impulse buy while out of town.  The luck factor is that there is no (or should not be any) bad wine made in the village of Vosne Romanée; I had no comprehension of that at the time, and had it been Vougeot or Volnay, the outcome may have been quite different.  The key to buying good Burgundy is to know not only the village and vintage, but also the vineyard if applicable, and more importantly the producer or domaine that has made the wine. After serving the 1999 Domaine Misset, Vosne-Romanée les Barreaux as an alternative to the richer and more full-bodied styles of Shiraz and Amarone that normally accompany dinner at our home, the Burgundy created a bizarre moment of silence in the room.   Each person at the table simultaneously stopped, took a moment to stare at their glass, and then asked what it was that we were drinking and where it was from.

Beyond "It's Pinot Noir from Burgundy." I really didn't have an answer for them. The catch, however, is that it took me numerous attempts, multiple bottles, and hundreds of dollars to come even remotely close to recreating that sense of awe. Now in my world, this is the recipe for fascination and it has lead me on a continual search for that 'perfect bottle'.

The blunt truth is that most people will not take the time to understand this and I cannot overemphasis how critically important that is for the rest of us; Burgundy is not mass-produced. There is by no means enough of it for everyone.  In fact, I cringe at the thought of finding a bottle of premier cru Chambolle-Musigny on the wine list at The Keg or on the store shelf at Costco in the States.  These places sell fruit-bombs to people who rarely step outside the scope of beverage mediocrity. A bottle of fine Burgundy in this environment would be tragically lost.  The supply of Burgundy is restricted by the structure of the vineyard classification system and resultant land on which the vines were planted long ago.  Its complexity and rarity are also what make it appealing to those who desire to know and are willing to spend a little more.

The name Côte d'Or is a reflection of the changing autumn leaves that catch the morning sun on the hills that rise to the west - I saw it, and yes, it is truly breathtaking, though I do find myself wondering if the golden slope more accurately relates to the money these vines have generated for the Church over the last 1000 years.  The production and sale of wine in France has historically translated into great wealth and after the collapse of the Roman Empire, the Church acquired many of the prized vineyards in Burgundy through donations from the monarchy.  In the hands of the Church, these vineyards theoretically stood a greater chance of surviving both political and hostile transition.  It was the Church that shaped and structured many of the vineyards in the region. The wine produced and its intoxicating effect has generated a significant amount of highly controversial income for the ‘House of God’.

In modern times, the supply versus demand placed on Burgundy by the western world and now a new Asian market is unfortunately what continues to drive the price from marginally affordable to totally unreasonable.  Along a 45km stretch of road extending between Dijon to the north and Santenay in the hills to the south you will find the most expensive farmland in the world.  At the upper end of the quality spectrum, the bottled wine reflects not only the spirit of the land, but its value as well.

Burgundy is surrounded by history, legend, and lore; it really is quite spectacular to witness in person. Amazingly, very little has changed along this narrow band of fields on the hillside.  As you walk along the vineyard access roads and sit on the edge of the stone walls, you quickly realize that time in the Côte d’Or has stood still and that these good people really don’t care about what is popular, they have little interest in the latest trends, or how many million cases of pink fizz Champagne sold last Valentine’s Day.  Such concerns don’t enter the thought process or formula that winemakers here follow. With the exception of a few items of convenience, they make wine in Burgundy using the same philosophy as their ancestors did in the 18th century.  Once you grasp this concept, only then will you begin to discover the magic of the incredible wine region.

In my next post, I invite you to walk with me from Fixin to Morey-Saint-Denis, stopping to tasting along the way.

~> Burgundy Part Two